#165

Anybody have any experienced recording with any 1073 Pre/EQ types (BAE, Neve, etc)? Have to say I’m curious as to what I might be missing out on? I’ve heard they are great on elec gits/acoustics, bass, and vocals. But wondering if they are equally great for synths and drum machines?

3 Likes
#166

I have the Chandler TG2 which is based on the early EMI console pres as used on DSOTM, the first Queen album, Abbey Road etc., which people sometimes say sounds between the Neve and the API sound. I have no experience with either, but I can say just running anything through the TG2 makes it sound better and more solid and more visceral and more analogue, for want of better subjective terms.

I’ve been using mine daily for over a decade now, in a number of scenarios:

  1. Primarily, as make up gain for my Thermionic Culture Pullet passive EQ, which, as it is passive, needs about 30-40dB make up gain after it, to get it back up to line level. This is in my mastering chain loop, and it been on about 99% of everything I have mastered.

  2. As a mic pre. Paired with decent mics (I have a pair of KM84s), it just sounds right, and needs far less tweaking after recording, if the mic position was good. But if you DO need to EQ, the recording takes it very well/doesn’t fall to pieces.

  3. As a DI for bass, electric and acoustic guitars, stereo synths, drum machines, and stereo FX returns (pedals and digital outboard). Mixed results with passive pickups (sometimes sounds great, sometimes sounds a bit too dark), but always stunning on line level sources. Again, increases solidity.

  4. Same as 3 above, but instead of going straight into the unit’s own DI inputs, I run the signal through a pair of very neutral active DIs first, and then go into the TG2s mic inputs. This way I can get even more colouration, as the signal will also go through the TG2’s input transformers.

Not sure about the Neve or BAE stuff, but on my TG2 I have 75dB of switched input gain, and switched output attenuators. This means I can drive the input as hard as I like for more colour, but then back off the output gain to stop overloading the next device in the chain. Whole worlds of colour (and distortion, think John Lennon’s vocals on Polythene Pam) if needed. So gain staging is important too.

It was a hugely expensive unit, and I doubted my sanity at the time, but there hasn’t been a day since that I have regretted getting one, and I’ll never sell it. I did try out a GML pre in its place a few years back, but it didn’t have nearly the mojo. I’m sure the Neve (and BAE clones) would be just as inspiring.

If you’re on the fence, send me a lossless file and I’ll run it through the TG2 so you can hear if you think it would be worth it for yourself.

6 Likes
#167

That was supposed to be a reply to @guitargyro BTW, but I somehow manged to screw it up I think!

1 Like
#168

I have limited experience as I just got it in March but I’ve enjoyed running synths through my AML ez1073 kit. The transformer adds subtle or not so subtle harmonics at the top of its range. Definitely adds heft to the signal.

2 Likes
#169

yes, BAE 1073 sounds great!
DI inputs on the front
mpc 2000 emu orbit synth

2 Likes
#170

May I ask what model of patch bay you use? I think I am approaching the point where I need to get one. So tired of being bent over trying to plug things in in the dark!

#171

For what it is worth I’ve been happy with a pair of these PB48.

In my case I decided to go with a patch bay 1/4" jacks instead of the more traditional (I guess) TT jacks. I liked that because I could easily plug arbitrary gear in the front, breaking the normalization setup between the top and bottom rows (which is configurable).

4 Likes
#172

I have a few ADC punch down style bays that are generally really cheap on eBay. You just have to buy the punch tool to attach cables to the back, which is quite easy. These are amazing quality and will last you forever.

I think I got mine for around $75 each, and the tool is about $50.

Edit — like this one https://www.ebay.ca/itm/202636232580

#173

Honestly I’m really happy with just a $50 Millennium patchbay. Most of what you pay for with more expensive patchbays is the durability of daily repatching for decades in a professional studio. For a home studio you just won’t get up to that level of wear.

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#174

I have 2 of the Samson S Patch patchbays. And 1 Art P16 XLR. Not top of the line, but they get the job done.

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#175

The chandler TG stuff is great. I have the TG microphone cassette which is essentially a mono channel strip- mic pre, DI, compressor, filter/EQ. There are patch points in the back to break normalled connections- so you can use compressor separate from preamp.

2 Likes
#176

I’m not really sure if this is the right place for this (the cable thread seems to be specifically for modular synths), but does anyone have experience DIY’ing cables and could recommend parts for building a lot of short RCA/TS cables? Or places to find good but affordable snakes that are not immediately obvious from google searching.

The reasonably priced ready-made snakes on the market don’t work for my usecase (I need 48 cables to connect my patchbay which is close by to my console). I currently am using these horribly low-quality hosa snakes (not a knock on hosa in general, but I’ve had 6 rca ends break on these so far because the end is hollow with a plastic core and breaks with the smallest amount of flex). I have some of the monoprice ones which do seem to be of acceptable quality to connect gear farther away, but I only need the cable lengths to be ~3’…the extra, unnecessary 17’ on an unbalanced cable is probably not good for sound quality based on what I’ve read…not to mention that’d be a lot of thick cables to figure out

#177

I DIY most of my cables. I often buy bulk cable from Redco (https://www.redco.com/) and connectors from Mouser or Redco. It’s pretty simple to do if you have a bit of soldering experience and a decent iron and high quality solder.

The only cables I don’t DIY are DB25 connections, because they are a serious pain in the ass.

3 Likes
#178

thanks for the feedback. I have done a bit of soldering now (euro kits and pedals and stuff) so I feel pretty comfortable with that…might need some thicker solder and to use one of my bigger tips in the pack i just got.

In terms of connectors…cable etc…the choice is a bit overwhelming to me, do you think going on the cheaper side of things, i.e.:

https://www.redco.com/Rean-Neutrik-NYS352.html
https://www.redco.com/Amphenol-ACPM-GB.html
https://www.redco.com/Redco-TGS-24.html

would be alright? or are there actual benefits for going with more expensive things?

2 Likes
#179

Those parts look like reasonable choices–Rean and Amphenol make quality connectors. I also use Redco for supplies sometimes. I also recommend picking some Mogami 2893 quad cable–I use tons of it for studio cabling.

2 Likes
#180

Those Amphenol 1/4" connectors are one of my favorites and the TGS snake cable is perfectly fine. Haven’t tried those RCAs, but Rean/Neutrik connectors are usually great.

1 Like
#181

Generally the benefit of the most expensive connectors and cable is durability. The Redco brand cable is quite good in my experience, and even the cheap stuff that they sell is good enough quality, even high quality, compared to cheap pre-made cables.

As @Hovercraft says, Mogami cable is also good. I use Belden for a lot of my mono patch bay cables, you can buy it in bulk from Redco or Mouser.

1 Like
#182

I also recommend picking some Mogami 2893 quad cable –I use tons of it for studio cabling.

Do you use this as a 4 channel unbalanced (or 2 channel balanced) snake?

#183

I recently hacked a DB25 to DB25 cable (planet waves / d’addario) into two two-channel cables to connect my SSL SiX main insert send/return. Oi, I hope that makes sense. Basically, I took the db25-ended cable and chopped it in half. I then spliced in 3-feet of mic-cable and landed that on a TRS 1/4 Neutrick / Rean plug. The hard part was that the planet waves cable was opposite of the Tascam standard. So, instead of needing cables 1 & 2, I ended up needing cables 7 & 8. That took a fair bit of trouble-shooting. I got the mic cable and plugs from parts-express.com and I would recommend that site. Tons of inventory and good prices. They also have a lot of hobby projects for audiophiles too. If any of that is unclear, feel free to ask questions. I’ve only had one cup of coffee on this cloudy monday morning.

#184

Just for single cables, not snakes. It’s been my all-purpose raw cable for just about everything. It’s a star quad cable, so you get four strands + shield–so I solder opposing pairs together for TRS cables. One pair for the tip, another for the ring, and cable shield to plug shield. For TS cables I use one pair for the tip and another for the shield on the plug–the cable shield stays unattached.

Nice thing about Mogami 2893 is the quality, flexibility, and lighter weight–for studio-length runs, it’s perfect.

1 Like