This is a bit different, I had the system on for a good half hour before testing.

It is like like every 30 seconds it the frequency starts increasing and decreasing enough to really screw up tuning.

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have you followed this procedure? (I used an SQ1 and Logic’s tuner plugin fwiw)

tho tbh I’m not sure this would address what you are describing. is your power supply overtaxed? (tho again, this is not how my mangrove responded to that)

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I haven’t but yeah, I’m not sure that will fix it.

I’m not having a tracking issue, its just unstable :frowning:

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video for reference

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Recently got my Mangrove and the first impression is really good. However I’m having a difficult time dialing in some mellow timbres on it. Can anyone share settings or patch ideas?

For me, I like the mellow timbres you get from the formant out with air a little shy of full CW, barrel a little CCW of noon and formant somewhere middling. The air setting is to decrease the odd-harmonic distortion, the barrel setting puts us in more “triangle” wave territory, and the formant setting (which at times sounds a little like pulse width) is neutral.

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I am planing to reduce my modular case to a 104U so i’m spending some time with my modules in order to know which ones i am gonna keep. Today was MANGROVE day. After some searches I landed here:

MANGROVE: A Technical Map

:heart:

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A simple Mangrove trick I discovered last night was patching my MI Ears envelope output into Mangroves Formant as a type of manual transpose control for little note flourishes (taking advantage of the uTone+formant aspects of Mangrove and the touch surface of Ears).

This also made me think that using some type of random gate into Formant could produce a nice variation to a sequence.

I’ve had my Mangrove for a few years now, and I’m still discovering little musical tricks that keep it top of the list as my favorite Oscillator :heart:

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Here’s a question. What’s the best way for Mangrove to modulate another oscillator, like, say Three Sisters in self-oscillation? I find myself easily stymied by Mangrove’s formant out’s DC component, since it means you lose tuning when using it to FM Sisters. How is attenuating before hitting span or quality?

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I often found myself re-tuning Sisters when running that set-up, which isn’t always ideal if you’re trying to go back and forth between clean sine and FM sounds. AC coupling is always an option. Knowing your system, you could run the Formant through Cold Mac and take the Mac output, but any other audio running through Cold Mac will also get through. Just Friend’s FM input is automatically AC coupled when in sound mode, too.

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Triangle (barrel at midpoint), ideally to sine waveshaper. Or hpf the DC.

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yeah, the hpf would be ideal, but I don’t really have a handy one. The “dirty sine” positioning is definitely a lot more consonant, though!

@kbit thanks for the tailor-made tip! Definitely would be an interesting trip using the Mac output given how much other audio is running through my current Cold Mac patch xD

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Can you manually remove the offset by summing with an offset, e.g. using the center channels of Maths? I’m not sure exactly what the contributors are to Mangrove’s DC offset and if it might vary as Mangrove is modulated. If so I don’t think I can think of another way without a highpass filter. Or a carefully programmed CV sequencer. Or just patching Mangrove through a digital effect, like a delay… I might need to go shuffle some modules around.

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oh whoa, I’ve only just started experimenting with dual mangroves into a waveshaper. I hadn’t even considered. mangrove->shaper->fm-input

I still haven’t been able to get my mangroves to track evenly which is very frustrating. I wonder if I could even them out by setting both their freqs to full CCW with a high cv input and just trimming the wonky one to be even with the good one…

Perhaps you could build a passive inline hpf for ac coupling on a bit of veroboard?

Just a capacitor and resistor required for simple 1 pole hpf (cap and resistor swapped for 1p lpf):
image

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I’m kind of re-discovering my Mangrove, it has so much character!
I love treating the dynamics of the Square output and Formant with two different sequences.

Sorry for the crappy old-smartphone recording, will work on the patch more and upload something later.

Context & Patch Details

My eurorack was getting dust for nearly 2 years, I had a lot of problems with my old cheap power supply and the place I live in had a really crappy electrical installation. I didn’t have money to buy a new case nor free time to practice. Last week I bought a used Intellijel case from a friend, fixed the installation and now everything works perfectly. :slight_smile:
I DIYed two passive 1U modules for the moment, an Olegtron R2R and a quad passive low pass Gate (combined Two-tone & DPLPG).

Patch details :

Simple CV sequence from SQ-1 to Mangrove v/8.
Slow LFOs from O_c gently modulate Mangrove Barrel and Formant.
First gate sequence > Maths > AIR, the Formant output goes to Korgasmatron channel B.
Second gate sequence > Maths > LPG controlling the Square output of Mangrove, then goes to Korgasmatron channel A. This Maths enveloppe also controls the Q of Korgasmatron chan B.
Those two gates + the two EOR/EOC from Maths go to an Olegtron R2R used as a DAC, the output FM Korgasmatron chan A.
Output of Korgasmatron goes to A-199 spring reverb.

I have to find a way to sequence this properly, SQ1 is nice for quick jams but I’d like to store sequences and have more control over them. I’m gonna try sequencing with Max, there’s a nice book explaining everything about the live.step object and it seems quite powerful.

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does someone here have any idea why a mangrove could stop working from one night to another? worked fine yesterday, today there’s no sound from either barrel or square out. nothing changed in my case… mmh :thinking:

@xxsd This happened to me live once. No sound at all- it was terrible and it threw me for a loop. I took it out of the case next day and examined it and the bottom pcb was loose and detached a bit- I pushed it back and everything worked fine after that. Maybe see if there’s anything loose?

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If it’s not the PCB, you may have the old fuses installed. These may be broken and need to be swapped. You can also bridge them with solder for now. Here’s the link to the guide: https://www.whimsicalraps.com/pages/fuse-replacement-guide

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