Yes this is the case in my mastering chain. I dont use a rip but i have a cinemag color palette 500series. I wouldnt say transformers have mojo as in color or overtones. The distinct but almost unhearable effect of a transformer is its ability to tame transients without apparent level change like a compressor will do-in the case of converting voltage in and out of euroland it makes sense to have cinemag smoothness…actually smooth is the mojo. Im not really sure if you can dismiss transformers soley on price as the the cinemags are the ones used in vintage consoles. I‘ll give meng qi‘s a spin just for the fact i have a hands and it makes pretty 
transformers are great at delivering smooth to clicky digital abrassive sounds-without taking the edge out.
What you can try also is to plug something that needs a ground into the same socket extension which you‘re using for the modular. Eg a waterboiler for an alibi ground.
Thinking about selling my RIP (Europe). What’s a fair price for it considering its rarity?
You could price it as high as you’re comfortable with and revise downwards if it doesn’t move. I would put it up at what I bought mine for, but that’s not necessarily the right answer.
a good description of what a Transformer is
Good shout! I checked out his YouTube too and those Colours analogue 500 series plugins look great, never even knew they existed and they’ve been around for a while it would seem!
Also the DIYRE podcast is worth a listen if you like podcasts. Some good interviews, info and insight into the diy pro audio world
Ah safe man, thanks a lot! I’ll definitely give that a goosey. It’s on the same channel I take it? Just subbed… 
here’s the website that has the episodes https://www.diyrecordingequipment.com/blogs/podcast
I got to it from the apple podcast app on my phone.
Hello, my Rip seems like it only works with the 1/4” cables not pushed in all the way. If I only use channel A, the cable can be pushed in all the way. Any insight on what’s happening is greatly appreciated. Thank you!
Sounds like you might be using unbalanced cables or plugging into an unbalanced jack. The tip and ring signals are 180 degrees out of phase, so if you connect them they cancel.
Thank you very much! That fixed it and just so I better understand, can you explain that to me? The eurorack cables are only TS, right? So why do we need TRS at the 1/4” end?
Using balanced outputs is to reduce noise. At a balanced input, the inverted/out-of-phase copy of the output signal is flipped again and summed with the other copy so that any noise picked up along the cable run is cancelled out.
To answer the question differently, the RIP is essentially a passive DI, and the balanced output is the main purpose of it. Any colour it adds is essentially a bonus.
Thank you both for getting back to me I understand why TRS exists but was confused that only the 1/4” were TRS for some reason. I’m good now. Thank you
Hey everyone, back again… I’ve since acquired a second RIP and this one works perfectly with the same cables. I can get the original RIP to pass both channels (stereo signal as the input) if the B 1/4” cable isn’t in all the way. I’m using TRS 1/4” cables and regular TS eurorack cables. Could something have come disconnected? Any help on solving this would be awesome and much appreciated
It’s always possible! I also suspect that the destination of your B-channel TRS could be part of the puzzle. Could it be running to an unbalanced jack which bridges the ring and tip of the TRS cable?
For troubleshooting, you might consider trying an insert cable. This will split the balanced TRS signal into it’s positive and negative components on individual TS cables. Then you can try plugging each into your destination and you should perceive identical (but phase shifted) results between them. If one of the two TS cables doesn’t carry a signal, then you probably have some hardware issues with the RIP.
Multimeters and oscilloscopes are also invaluable tools for troubleshooting
What are you plugging into on the other end?
Luckily, it’s very easy to troubleshoot a passive module, because it works out of the case, and you can’t damage it by shorting anything. Inspect all soldered connections visually. Plug cables into the module and start pushing sideways on every soldered connection on the PCB. Use a metal object, like a knife tip or screwdriver. You will find which connection is loose when it suddenly starts working under pressure.