The light change sounds like a new cue was added, instead of one being deleted… I think.

In Cue mode, if you hit P to preview, wherever you release P is where the tape is. So if you hit R at that point, you’re inserting a new cue.

You’d need to hit L+Down to move back to the cue, and then hit R.

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For me when I audition in cue mode if I release play it automatically jumps back to the beginning of the loop. From the tutorial I thought to manipulate the cue point you held up to extend the end which seems to do something but I’m not sure what lol Once I get the hang of cue mode I think I’ll finally be good to go with this little guy (aside from my finicky down switch).

I believe it doesn’t jump to the beginning right then, but when you hit P again, it restarts at the beginning wherever you left off. At least that’s what seemed to make sense to me when I successfully deleted some cues.

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W/ has essentially become my output module.

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Are there any good examples of this recorded? ideally something you can do an A-B comparison In - Out…

Order #1628 dispatched… :star_struck:

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Mine too! 1626. Should be here just in time for the weekend.

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So…

I’m having an issue. I see all your issues learning to use W/ and I raise you a bigger issue.

This box arrived, and I took this thing out, and the PCB is so beautiful that I’m tempted just to put it on a shelf and admire it :slight_smile:

Looking forward to pleasant confusion, and happy that some others have trod this path first to leave little kernels of wisdom.

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well my order was finally delivered and i had an issue I didnt see anyone else mention yet. did anyone else have a w/ that was loose at the points where those two tiny bolts are on the top and bottom face of the module?? touching the buttons and the little switch was how i noticed they were loose after installing the module. I had to remove the module, put it in the most protective carrying apparatus i could find for it, go to orchard supply to see if they had a hex small enough to fit that bolt and tighten it (they didnt) so then i had to go to frys electronics. luckily i found one there and it cost five bucks. Im trying to not be angry about all the extra time i had to spend to fix a brand new module but it seems wrong. Why im getting all this bad luck with Mannequins modules, i have no idea (the euro gods are angry with me, what did i do?). also still have yet to receive any response to my issues with my JF module. losing patience. and yes the design on the PCB is pretty cool.

Yeah, one the the two I bought was loose like that. Luckily, I’m a watchmaker so I had the tools to tighten the hex screws.

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wow, someone else. a watchmaker synthesist is interesting =-) am i being dramatic though about having to correct on my own the lack of thoroughness of the seller?? also not happy about them not including screws like everyone else does

FWIW I’ve never once used the screws provided with a module. They’re always M3 (that I’ve noticed) and I have a skiff that takes M2.5 and a larger case that takes 4/40. All the provided screws stay in the box they came in, awaiting resale. I’d personally just as soon they not be provided.

Now if a power cable were not provided, that I would take issue with.

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I was just about to say, not all cases use the same type screw so I don’t mind not having those.

fair enough point taken, hopefully ill get taken care of sooner rather than later, have a nice evening everyone

For anyone who runs into a similar issue, I think I fixed my down switch problem. I think the hex screws were over tightened in the sides of the module. I loosened them a tiny bit and now it works fine, no idea what caused that but I’m glad it’s fixed without any major repair!

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hi! as i’ve been reading though this thread i’ve been thinking that there is so much talking about w/ but very little listening to w/. i was wondering what the heck the rest of you all are making w/ this cool new thing. this recording is obviously very unpolished, and it doesn’t really go anywhere, but it’s the coolest sound i got out of w/ tonight.

https://soundcloud.com/user-388295829/w-loop-march-28

patch notes:
dixie ii > optomix [with envelope from maths ch.1] > three sisters [little bit of mod on span and FM from pam’s new workout sine waves] > w/; little bit of reverb from Balance Teufelsberg Reverb [suggested by @beforeitwascool ]

it’s a simple sequence from SQ-1; loop in w/ is made ~half a step too short to build up this syncopated thing after around 5 plays. w/ THAT input fed a little bit of negative voltage from maths ch.3 so that each successive play is a little less prominent. shortly after this track starts, i stop the input so the ghostly marimba plays out.

i’m a newbie when it comes to polishing recordings - i know this isn’t necessarily the forum for it, but any suggestions on how to balance this out a bit would be appreciated!

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Here’s one thing I’ve done with W/ so far. Plaits in filtered noise mode, slowed way down, among other things (notes in the link). Less of a W/ study and more just using it to do what I’ve been doing recently. :slight_smile:

https://soundcloud.com/starthief/wheelhouse

There was noise in the “tape loop” which I embraced and emphasized in the mix, and a pop too which I decided to enhance rather than fighting, this time.

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this is great, nice work.

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can someone give me a fool proof tip, how I can delete a cue point? I don’t get it.

So in cue mode; once you’ve auditioned the cue and decided, yup that’s gotta go, you then have to do go back to the start of the cue using l+up. Then press r to delete the cue.

Edit: I realised that might not be totally fool proof given that this little bugger can be slightly confusing.

From Nav mode press l and r together to get into cue mode. Scope around your cues using the l-up and l-down combinations. When you’ve alighted on one you want to delete, you have to navigate back to the start of that cue in order to delete it, as pressing play doesn’t automatically return the marker to the start of the cue. L-up to return to the start of the cue, r to delete!

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