I think a simple 1/4" to 1/8" mono cable should suffice. I don’t recall whether I’ve tried sending CV on my Ultralite, but if I have this is what I used and it went fine.

1 Like

I use the floating ring ones with the MOTU 828es as a precaution I think, but may have got them mixed up at some point with normal cables.

I think I got Expert Sleepers ones?

1 Like

Yes, Expert Sleepers floating ring cables are what you need for this!

1 Like

https://www.instagram.com/p/CGnAjt3hgnB/?igshid=19021lh2wgsd8

apogee duet firewire interface
(secondhand from Nashville, TN)
this (vintage?) MBP 2012’s got a firewire port
put back osX to use apogee maestro software
(makes it easy, and even high sierra is an osX upgrade for me
and also all the plugins/software that don’t work on linux(yet))…
especially Aalto, and the PSPAudioware
Ableton rockin’ an upgrade to Live 10 LE :slight_smile:

2 Likes

Nice!

I’m still liking my Apogee Duet USB for Mac and iOS…

Great to see the old laptop still kicking!

2 Likes

Taking it back. I’m still rocking an Intel mobo with FireWire + i7-3770k. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Now I want to “upgrade” my Saffire 40 to something like a Fireface 800. I can live my 2012 dreams in 2020.

2 Likes

I opened up my motu 16a in case anyone wanted to have a peek–couldnt find any teardowns when I looked:



5 Likes

Ok, long time went by, I have a uTrack 24 on the way.

How do you find it handles levels? Does it easily distort?

I have a nw2s 16o unbalanced (https://nw2s.net/products/nw2s-o16-unbalanced) that I got in preparation of getting the uTrack, it attenuated modular levels by 6db before relaying them to db25. I hope this will work with the uTrack. As far as I understand it, the uTrack doesn’t have any input gain adjustment, so I have to get the levels tamed (not distorting, but obviously not too quiet to introduce too much noise) in the modular.

Not asking for promises, but would you say it sounds sane?

As I run out of stereo inputs into my Zed14 I’ve started to use 2 mono channels (panned hard L/R) for stereo instruments. Seems to work just fine, but are there any reasons not to do this or adjustments I’m not considering when doing so?

Seems like a silly question, but something I’ve always been curious about. Thanks!!

Can’t speak to any technical implications, but I’ve always done this. In my case, I tend to route the outputs of my Ciat-Lonbarde instruments to mono channels on my zed10 simply as a way of narrowing the stereo image.

3 Likes

Yeah, as long as those inputs can take line level (sometimes there’s a switch for that, sometimes not), then you can definitely do this. Sometimes you can even push the gain a little and drive the input for a little mild (or major) distortion.

I also run my cocoquantus into the mono inputs of my mixer. Sometimes I hard pan, and sometimes I tighten it up, like @Olivier says.

2 Likes

It’s a tight cowboy in there! I like seeing how they did the board-board connections. Much resistor array on that analog board! Plus 2 of those Spartan chips? Super interesting, thanks for sharing!

1 Like

I’m having an issue with my mixer and I’m wondering if anyone else has this problem, or if its my mixer, or if I’m totally incompetent.

I’m using a Soundcraft Notepad 12fx and I suspect something is wrong with my aux send. USB playback on its own is working fine, each of the channels is working fine. I can send them to the aux, and if I use the FX channel everything is fine- FX are working and has appropriate volume levels. The problem is when I try to use the actual aux output to run a channel or the USB channel out to a pedal and back to another channel on the board. everything is almost inaudibly quiet, but if I turn the channel I’m sending or the aux send volume up to max I get almost no actual signal boost and TONS of distortion, so everything stays quiet but is highly distorted. I can’t recall if I was using the board this way yet earlier or not (can’t remember if some things I was doing playback from another device or via the mixer), but I don’t remember having an issue with the aux like this previously. I don’t know how or why but could something have fried the aux output? Or am I missing something dead obvious and confusing myself?

Probably a silly question, but are the said pedal and the cables it’s connected with working OK with the signal? Ie. do you get expected signal levels if you connect one of those sources directly to the pedal with the same cables, without using the aux, and then back to a normal channel?

(And another obvious one: if the pedal works OK with same instrument and same cables, is the FX return channel volume at healthy levels, so that you don’t first overdrive the signal and then attenuate the return heavily?)

1 Like

I have been forced to send my SSL2+ back after 3 or 4 months as it developed intermittent faults on Windows 10 (not being recognised on startup etc) before eventually ceasing to pass audio in or out completely. SSL support were really helpful but ultimately I’ve been without it for well over a month now and have been forced to rely on other interfaces I bought for iOS use. With this likely to continue to be the case for another month before the unit is returned to me, I’m debating whether I should purchase an alternative replacement and sell the SSL on when it returns (I’m leaning towards a MOTU M2 as I had an 828 for years which was fantastic but the FW stopped being friends with Windows one day and that was that!).

I have a Novation AudioHub (ideal for iPad work as it has the USB hub built in) and a Zoom U-24 (again, great for portability and with MIDI in and out too) but neither are ideal for DAW work. The Novation only has RCA outputs and I tend to struggle with unbalanced signals thanks to the array of USB devices I have connected to my PC; the Zoom has a an odd tendency to sort of cut-out for split seconds when playing audio (not even through the DAW, just playing MP3 files through Foobar will trigger it). I’ve increased the buffer to the maximum to see if that solves it but it’s a strange situation and leaves me in a position where I have a wealth of iOS options but nothing I trust with Windows.

yes on both counts :slight_smile:

If I use the aux with the send at max and aux volume at max I still have to turn the volume up on the channel I’m returning to so high the preamp hiss as about as loud as the actual signal.

I contacted thomann and I’ll just send it back to them for assessment, but I’m pretty positive at this point its something screwed up with the bus.

Yeah, if everything works fine otherwise / the possibility of the pedal or cables acting iffy is ruled out, that sounds like eg. a faulty contact somewhere in the aux path. Hope Thomann will confirm the issue and replace / fix it!

1 Like

That sounds like terrible support—SSL should repair it quickly or replace it—otherwise they should refund your money. Did they give you a reason why the repair is taking so long?

It’s because everything has to go through the retailer (who are impossible to contact electronically and not the easiest to reach via telephone!). It took a month from contacting SSL to the retailer authorising and receiving my return; now they’re saying a repair will be 2-4 weeks (it has been a little over a week)

Ok, so it’s more on the retailer than SSL. It sounds like you should have it repaired in the next few weeks, so I’d just sit tight—as frustrating as that is.

1 Like