Ah, I should have been clearer, I just want to learn enough to be more comfortable with my own music, not looking to go pro at all :slight_smile: Do you think this is a foolish endeavour, and it would take 20 years anyway?

Thank you for your reply!

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Still reckon you’d benefit more from finding an actual mastering engineer near you, who might let you sit in during some sessions for free, than reading ten mastering books (I know, I own them all but would LOVE to have an intern!!!)

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Gotcha! :slight_smile: Will have a look around, thank you!

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Now there is: Worng Soundstage

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Best book is still the Bob Katz one!

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Hi guys,

I have a couple of questions:

  1. Why if I create music digitally (Ableton Live) it usually comes out with basses too strong or high notes too low but when I create with my analog gear (modular and analog synths) I don’t have these issues and what I hear when I create the song is what I get when I listen to it?

  2. When I have a track I created in Ableton involving ambient pads or notes with very low frequency and I listen to it on my headphones that is great, but when I listen to it in my car it is not. What I tried to do is to EQ out some low frequencies and some high frequencies where there is no sound…is that the right approach? What would you do better?

Ableton vs. Modular

Assuming that you are working in the same sonic environment (room & speakers & your location in the room) - I’d attribute the difference to the mental stance you have when working with Ableton vs. modular. In Ableton you are able to constant tweak the Eq, constantly “listen for the mix”, and forever alter the tone, not just the music.

As you listen to a work over an over, you become accustomed to the way it sounds, and your mind starts treating it’s tonal balance as a neutral reference. If you’re aim is a strong bass, you’ll boost it at this point. 30 min. later, you’ll hear the mix as even, and decide to boost again… Two days later you listen and it is a bass hog.

This is a clear example of why “head space” is such a crucial factor in mastering, and why common wisdom¹ is to treat creation, mixing, and mastering as separate phases. In your case, the advice would be to not try to fix the tonal balance while you’re creating. Leave it for the last step.

Of course, if my assumption is wrong: You have two different studios, or are just standing in a wholly different place (w.r.t. to the speakers) when using your modular, there may be other direct causes as well.

Headphones vs. Car

You should drop the expectation that your music will sound the same in these two environments:

Headphones can be flat or not. If they are the “consumer” headphones - those worn in a non-music making environment, they may very well have a large bass boost. The curve on these will be skewed to work with popular styles, and often pump mid-lows because “it sounds better than the competition”. If they are studio headphones, they are probably flat or very nearly so. If you are not using studio headphones, I’d strongly suggest you get a pair for when you create music. Even a $100 investment here will be a significant benefit overall.

Cars traditionally have terrible sound. I know the high end auto makers all tout their high fidelity audio systems… but there is only so much you can do with small speakers in a sonically very challenging space, and noisy road environment. Unless you have your trunk filled with sub-woofers, you should expect the low end to be lacking.

If you look at pictures of professional mixing suites, you’ll often see a small pair of cube speakers, about 6" on a side, perched on either end of the mixing console. These are “Auratones”, or some equivalent. They have two benefits: 1) They are single cone, and so have linear phase to the ear. 2) They have an eq curve that is anything but flat. Here’s the curve from my Toa equivalents.

This is often used as a stand in for “when the listener has this on the car radio”. And the assumption is, if you can make it sound good on both these, and the larger studio monitors… then you’re doing it right.

Of course, you have to accept that it is impossible to get something to sound the same in both cases. At the very least, the low end will sound very different. So, to do this, you generally need to do two things:

  1. Think beyond EQ: Because the low end is lacking in the car (or other common listening environments), rather than just EQ the low end up in the music - you need to look for ways to have the low end parts have a presence in the low-mid and mid areas, so that they are contributing musically, if not spectrally - because there is just nothing you can do get that end of the spectrum filled without destroying the mix in better listening situations.

  2. Find the compromise: Turn on the Auratones (or punch in a parametric EQ that simulates it - which is what I do - you can download my Ableton rack for this in post #191 above). Then put the track on loop, play it, and do something else for 5 or 10 min. on your computer. Now go back to Ableton, and pay attention. Surprisingly, the track won’t sound so thin anymore… and you can mix it so it sounds reasonable under this EQ. Then turn the EQ off and again, a few minutes not directly paying attention to let ears adjust and back to editing. Round and round, finding a happy medium. It’s there… really…

Of course, some music is created for primarily one environment. If you are writing techno thumpers for Berghain and Tresor, you probably won’t go this route - because that stuff sounds great on those systems, and really not so much in a car! Similarly, if your target is music for YouTube videos, again, you’ll skew to making it sound great on sub-one-inch phone speakers!


Whew - that was a lot - hope it helps some!

¹ And like all musical wisdom, there are times and people for whom this is not the right approach. Be open, and do what works for you and the situation at hand.

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Thanks for the great reply!
What I was doing with EQ was just to remove the sub basses from 20 to 50 Hertz, and the situation has improved a bit!

Wouldn’t that be noisy?

I guess any mixer will introduce a small amount of noise but any decent Mackie with good cables should be OK for this application. And to quote Dave Pensado, “don’t freak out, a little noise is good. It reminds you of the ocean”.

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question on mixing rock-type stuff. how do you get the low end to feel tight, pumpy and exciting? I’m working on a mix right now, and the frequency balance feels right but it just doesn’t have the same impact as what I’m hearing from most other (well-recorded) things.

What kind of compression are you using? That tightness often comes from a mix of careful EQ to make space for bass/drums and some light (or not so light) compression on the drums, bass, and master.

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on those specific elements:

  • on eq, I’m trying to give the kick 50-60hz and scoop 100hz a little bit, and the bass guitar gets 100hz.
  • compression on the bass to even it out some, I’m also hitting the 1073 plugin hard which sort of has a limiting effect.
  • I have lined all the drums and bass tracks up to optimize phase for the kick.
  • kick is mostly coming from a close mic (which has ableton’s corpus on it to blend in some more sub low stuff), room mic pair (which is eq’d to be mostly low-mids) and overhead pair (which i’ve got high-passed, it’s more adding air). Stereo pairs unfortunately have very agressive eqs because the drums were recorded where the hi-hat is the loudest thing in all the mics.

I’ve attempted a number of other things to try to improve it.

  • bus compressors on the room pair/overhead pair.
  • multiband comp on the kick close mic, trying to make it “snap” more.
  • bass side-chained to the close kick to try ducking it

none are really getting me closer to references. I think I might try rearchitecting so that all the drums get sent to a bus which I can try to do some parallel/bus compresions (unfortunately I’m on ableton 9 which has the 1 level of group limitation). I also might explore master compression either multiband or something like the glue comp.

I think what I’m looking for is something that is “slow” to enhance the song. Rather than something fast to provide like transient help (which is what I thought I needed for this before experimenting)?


also been running the master to my reel. which really really helps glue all the high elements together, but it might be exacerbating the flatline bass.

maybe there is a bit too much compression on the lower frequencies ? (that can make things flat/lifeless).
For the sake of trying, i would, based on your description:

  • look for the snappiness in the kick around 3k
  • expand it instead of compressing it (in a doubled track parallel to the original one)
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rock drums are the hardest and most subjective thing and ive seen the weirdest stuff done with them

bus compression often/usually plays a role i guess. try something extreme, then back off?

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@ermina thanks for the additional ideas. Will try. I think you might be right on the overcompression too, I’m gonna also try remove the processing chain from the bass guitar and see if the tape can do by itself what I was attempting there to kind of make it feel even and smooth

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Maybe play with the attack time and make up gain on the bass drum compressor. Multi-band compressors often have very fast attack times on the higher frequencies, which may not be what you want.

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Yes. Drum bus compression, and parallel, are crucial for “rock” drums in my experience. It sounds like everything else is on the right track.

The other thing that’s worked for me in the past is actually to lean on the overheads more than the close mics. Get the overheads sounding a good as you can (based on what you want) and then add the close mics in for reinforcement. Too much close mic and it can start to loose cohesion.

I’m also happy to take a listen.

Also keep in mind where “snap”/beater sound is in the kick. It might be higher than you think.

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Seconded for how crucial overheads are in rock drum sounds, most of the recordings I’ve made that implied this kind of sound, 75% of the sound color came from the overhead, it creates some kind of natural compression and breaths better and then it’s processed through additional parallel compression and the single mics are merely there to add some margin in the mix over the transients.

Also agree it’s the hardest kind of sound to get right,it’s always been a tough process as every stage from recording to mix requires skills and taste.

Eurorack as Outboard Gear:

Does anyone use eurorack modules for mixing? For example, I’ve been playing around with Cold Mac as a compressor and 3 Sisters as a sort of tilt-EQ. Anyone else do this sort of thing? Why or why not?

(Trying the above with clean electric guitar in a sort of jazz style)

EDIT: Some other ideas… Tromso as a quasi-sample-rate-reducer/bit crusher, certain filters/VCAs as saturators, filter banks as EQ, etc. And I guess I’m being specific as taking a printed track (not in the context of live performance) and specifically treating it with an effect achieved in Euro… much like one might do in 500 series.

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