#620

Quick question…again. Any tips for installing the brass banana rods, do you just wiggle them into place and put a little solder underneath to secure them? That’s my current plan anyway.

Thanks

1 Like
#621

Maybe write to Will “Lorre-Mill” Schorre for his suggestions?

#622

Has anyone here built any of the solar sounders?

I’m sitting here with the Sunday morning sun in my eyes, aware of the lack of birdsong outside these days, and idly thinking that a couple of chirruping machines on the windowsill would probably be a nice soundtrack to the second coffee of the day…

1 Like
#623

Yes :wink:
I love those brass rods, it gives a really playable touch interface (and that’s the main reason why I still haven’t put my rollz-5 in a case, I don’t want to loose that playability).

1 Like
#624

Theres quite a detailed info on building a fyrall instrument here that is relevant

http://ciat-lonbarde.net/fyrall/man/index.html#Transistors

1 Like
#625

Via Peter’s IG:

“New kit when I get to it: tocante studworth; choose your own scale”

174 Likes, 6 Comments - Peter Blasser (@ciat_lonbarde) on Instagram: “New kit when I get to it: tocante studworth; choose your own scale”

(Edited to add URL)

6 Likes
#626

Anyone know if you can sync a Plumbutter2 to Norns? I could be a real fun combo…

#627

Plumbutter’s (unstated) concept of Relabi doesn’t exactly mesh with sync, but you could sync from PB to something else, and still retain the relationships - and yes, you could trigger the sounds on pB in time with something else, but probably not worth owning a plumbutter, IMO

2 Likes
#628

I found both Lorre-Mill and Peter B talking about it, but John Brendt’s website is down. Is Relabi a thought of an ever changing rythm, something that creates variation?

1 Like
#629

http://www.johnberndt.org/relabi/index.html

…works for me - whole lil essay here…
If can’t get in, I’ll copy/paste to you in DMs

" Relabi is the music of the self-erasing pulse. A newly identified experiential gestalt, it involves
coordinated sounding structures built on a constantly slipping pulse, creating an experience with
some of the characteristics of rhythm but at the same time radically different.

The first self-aware Relabi record, BALTIMORE RELABI STYLE is in production now (composed by John
Berndt, with a star-studded cast of musicians and produced by beat wizards Matmos, plus sidemen Dan Deacon,
Jason Willet, Mark Miller, and others) and will probably hit the shelves and internet sometime in 2014!!,

3 Likes
#630

More direct link
http://www.johnberndt.org/relabi/Relabi_essay.htm

#631

Oh, for some reason the website didn’t work on the train’s wi-fi… Thanks for help!

#632

i’m assembling a BOM for a couple of the conrad papers circuits now, and i have a few questions about what’s what. some of the icons seem to be redundant/conflicting with @Rodrigo 's paper circuit legend, and some aren’t on there at all. i’ve been interested in ciat lonbarde stuff since a college roommate got shnth in like 2012, but i’ve never actually played or built any of his instruments before. i’ve only done a few DIY projects before, and none of them were nearly as mysterious as these paper circuits. any help would be greatly appreciated!

  1. the legend doc mentions that both of these symbols mean .01 uf 103k poly capacitor, but here it says that symbol means “104 green.” would he use the same symbol to signify two different things in different circuits, or am i misinterpreting the legend?
    image

  2. similarly, according to the legend doc both of these seem to mean 10k resistor.
    image

  3. are these “nodes” where jacks/brass pins will eventually go? is this the same as the star-shaped icons?
    image

  4. what’s this?
    image

  5. is this this?
    image

thanks in advance! this is likely the first of several similar posts, can’t wait to get started on these!

#633

The one at the top is a hairy capacitor, ie. you can choose the value you want, usually Peter gives a “reference” but you can choose what you want (more or less) for its value.
The one at the bottom is a 103 film cap (you’ll find this symbol on all paper circuits, just count the number of bars to get the value, 3 bars = 103, 4 bars = 104, 2 = 102 etc.)

Same here, the two at the top are 10k indeed, you can choose the value of the “x” (you could also put a trimpot or potentiometer here).

Yep they are the same (brass pins/touch points/banana sockets).

[quote=“barnjazz, post:632, topic:3322”]
4. what’s this?
image

This is a jumper (or a 0 ohm resistor), you can just use a small piece of insulated wire to connect it.

The part circled is an LM358 IC, and you have a jumper just a its right :slight_smile:

10 Likes
#634

amazing, thank you so much!! lines is the best place.

2 Likes
#635

you’re welcome, let us know how this goes :slight_smile: I’m also planning on building a complete dogvoice with modulations this summer, i just need to see if I can mod the pcbs a bit.

2 Likes
#636

Working with a friend on making a Dogvoice euro module.

This is the first prototype of making a single voice (of two).

There’s a ladder filter on each, so the plan at the moment is to have one ladder filter balanced/tuned and the other not tuned, for a gnarlier sound and some variety between them.

IMG_9262
IMG_9262.jpeg4032×3024 2.65 MB

15 Likes
#637

a couple more bill of materials questions related to the paper circuits:

  1. for the PNP transistors, does it matter if i use BC556, 557, or 558? is each one appropriate only in certain circumstances? same question for the NPN transistors with BC546, 547, and 548.

  2. i had a hard time finding 10uf, 47uf, and 100uf film capacitors on tayda - it looked like those values were only available in electrolytic capacitors. is that OK?

  3. metal film resistors? carbon resistors? is there an appreciable difference between these two products?
    image

#638

Wow it looks promising!
Please keep us informed of your progress, can’t wait to see this.

#639

I’ve had troubles with BC5x6 with a build (it was simply not working, I think it was with a rollz-5 or gerassic organ but I’m not 100% sure), had to replace all of them for BC5x7 so now I only use these just to be sure.

I’m not familiar with Dogvoice but in general if the symbol of the capacitor doesn’t have a circled-hole (like the first pic in your previous post), it has to be non-polarized and thus not be electrolityc (film or ceramic will work).
When it has a circled-hole (like the Hairy capacitor in your previous pic) it means you can ether use a polarized cap (and the “-” will go the this circled hole) or any other. I tend to prefer film/ceramic for values greater than 0.1µF.
Just be careful, some capacitors need to be electrolityc, check the symbol (concentric holes) on the master legend (it’s somewhere on this thread).

I can’t really say… I use 1/4w or 1/8w carbon film resistors most of the time as it doesn’t seem to be very critical in CL paper circuits (but some of them might have metal films too depending on what I have on hand). I think 1/2w would be too big to fit Peter’s designs.

3 Likes