hm ok, thanks, so mines definitely out of whack then. yeah mine are not really screws, i managed to get them to turn with a tiny flathead, albeit with a lot of careful fiddling. how did your trimmers behave exactly? mine don’t seem to do anything other than either completely turn off both voices, or at very very specific spots, sort of restore my deerhorn to its original faulty behavior.

is front panel removal as simple as undoing the screws? mine doesnt seem to budge

ive had good luck contacting peter directly when i had issues with my shnth, if you havent already!

Yea I just took out all the screws and the top lifts off. I found that the trimmers did similar things to what you’re describing. It was easy to get the both voices totally non responsive and I presuming I’d completely broke things, but with some persistence I got the ranges sorted. I just did it a little at a time.

I’m curious, is yours an older PB2? Do the newer ones have actual screws in them

Peter told me the antennae had gone out of range and to adjust the screws as discussed

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Mine is late 2017 and it does have “normal” flathead screws in it, it seems. I was able to get good ranges off the Deerhorn by twiddling them patiently.

“Free jazz drum machine”

(rolls 5, cowboy Callosum, Grackler, cocoquantus going through a trigger to midi translator for talking to the solenoids)

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Next up I’ve got Esoterica Spikering on my plate, so if someone could help me identify these few components I’d be very grateful (didn’t find clues from Master Legend or older posts).

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Could someone check if their Plumbutter 2 outputs sound from the Deerhorn even when the switch is in middle position. Thx. Mine leaks sound and I have to lower the pitch to make it drown in the mix. (Using Deerhorn as VCA for external gear)

Middle is off. Top and bottom are selecting the pan/direction of each horn if I recall correctly.

I just made this recently too. The x and y resistors were 10k and I used 103 caps for those funny capacitor symbols next to the 064 IC. Also if you want to play around with the values you could just solder sockets in there and choose your own based on the sounds. The double cross symbol is low pass output node from the filter.
Check this bit out from earlier in the thread, also the link to Pugix is very helpful.

And,

I haven’t tried that last mod, just read about it when I was looking at this post

For the Spikering, those 2 caps coming off the right side of TLO64 (the dashed lines ones) are 102 caps - I contacted Richard about that, when I was building mine, and he confirmed they are 102 on his schematic as I couldn’t understand it fully.

I followed his mods. Note that X and Y resistors are 10K and CHAO is 220K. I made one circuit change, to lower the resistor from the Delay pot from 1M to 470K so that the pot would have an effect. All my pots are 10k. I used a TL074 instead of 64. The electrolytics are 10uf.

@bereenondo If you’re trying to use the two sections separately, i lifted the leg of the 104 cap that connects to CHAO resistor and wired a jack/switch there - it works fine and recommended. I did it on my build.

That cross symbol is high pass out. I pretty much use the bandpass output mostly.

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Thanks for the help @bunkerspreckles and @mlogger!

So far I’ve been reading the Pugix site on mobile browser and the drawings weren’t visible for some reason, now that I checked it on my laptop the page makes much more sense :slight_smile:

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Yeah. Middle should be off. Up and down make different variants of tone. But for me middle is not 100% off. It leaks sound.

Sorry, I feel like I’m spamming this thread with my questions (hopefully these are useful for someone else pondering these in the future), but does anyone know if there’s any alternatives to TS914 chip on Dogvoice? It’s hard to come by, at least in EU.

Edit: Wanted to add that Spikering works like it should, it sounds lovely with Rolls!

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I got some TS914’s on Ebay…

Also, @mlogger, thanks for the cap clarification, (and the PCBs :grinning:) It looks like on Pugix’s drawing those caps are labeled 103, interesting to know he says 102. I wonder what diiference it makes. When I was building it i had those socketed, so I tried 101, 102, and 103 and didn’t notice much change. Subtle flavors of Spikering spice I guess

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Spikering with odd and even Rolls is a perfect combo imo for a stand-alone blippoo type box. That Pugix video of it doesn’t do it any justice in what it’s capable of. Dogvoice and Rolls is also great core voice that you can build a system around. Why Peter never released the Dogvoice is baffling. It definitely complements his other stuff.

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I’m looking for a sampler to use with Coco 2 and the Bastl MicroGranny looks like it might fit the bill.
But before I take the plunge, I thought I’d ask if anyone had tried this combination, and if so, how did you find the experience? Good/bad/meh?

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I’m building a little inline attenuator box for some extra quantussy control. I did a quick test and it worked great.

To solder the pot to the banana jack I cut up a banana cable but was wondering if it’s as good to cut of the wires from some resistors and use those instead, or any other thin wires, the banana cables are a bit too chunky?

image image

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Hi Helen, I have the Bastl MicroGranny for 2 years now. It depends on what you’re after. If glitchy lo-fi sounds is your thing, then it’s perfect! But to be honest i was disappointed from the build quality and the instability of this machine and I’m thinking of selling it.

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Thanks for the comment, I appreciate it.
I’m very much into lo-fi/ambient sounds (pretty much the main reason I bought a Cocoquantus) and from the specifications on the Bastl website, the MG looks like an ideal ‘partner’.
But I’ve heard other people also comment on the build quality, and it’s an important thing to me, so maybe I need to take note of that, and look at other comparable brands.
Thank you again.