The order for the Electrolytics is as the BOM depicts. 220μF next to the diode. 10μF next to the 104.
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Hello! First time posting on |||||||| after hearing so much about how welcoming and friendly it is here :smile:

I have become rather uninspired by my little Eurorack setup effects, mainly by my Magneto being too predictable. I am considering selling off some stuff to fund a cocoquantus, which I have been lusting after for many years, but I have a couple of questions.

  1. If feeding the cocoquantus into the modular, will the output levels of the coco be sufficient, or will I need to aplly gain? Considering buying one of those 1U intellijel line level tiles if that is the case.

  2. Do you guys feel like you need to EQ/filter the coco output? I’m wondering if I should get a stereo DJ style mixer with LP and HP to cut unwanted frequencies.

Thanks in advance, looking forward to participating in this bustling little community!

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Coco is line level output. Filtering is personal preference. I don’t do that, but if that’s what you want then go for it!

I’m downsizing my Euro to just a 62HP palette, so trying to think in advance. Maybe I’ll wait and play with the coco for a while before making a decision regarding wanting a dedicated filter… Thanks!

Coco’s output is stereo, so you’ll need to either sum the two channels before bringing it up to euro levels or use a stereo input module. Same goes for filtering. I got a Bastl Dude mixer for the Coco and the Lorre Mill Double Knot, in order to sum the stereo channels to mono so I could more easily process them with my euro.

I think it all depends on what you want out of the coco, but a lot of the character is in the hiss and bit reduced distortion. If you got further into C-L land, the Plumbutter does allow for stereo filter processing of aux inputs and so does the new Din Datin Dudero Stuber.

@amycatass
You can use a LM324 instead, works perfectly for Dogvoice and it’s widely available :wink:

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Today’s mod is longer decay of gongs on the meng-qi rollz-5+:

connect the two trimmer points for the gong that are opposite the dot on the silkscreen. you can now get long decay, singing bowl kind of gongs (they will also fully oscillate…some fiddly adjustment of the two trimmers and the q trimmer on the board gets you these nice decays):

Range for these longer decay gongs seems to be a little less than the standard 2M trimmers/pots (it won’t decay at very high pitches and won’t stop oscillating at the very low pitches).


Was exploring some cross patching between two gongs and was starting to find some interesting fm-kind of stuff, but then some magic smoke appeared. Well, I saw the magic smoke, but I didn’t smell it and nothing seems to be broken, so I don’t think it actually happened, but was rather a premonition not to keep poking at it :laughing:

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That’s interesting, I got longer decays on my paper built Gongs (without mods) than on the Meng-qi Roll-5.
I planned on building a standalone box of 4 extended Gongs (with added aux. input and CV on frequency via dual vactrol) but got sidetracked building Spikerings (that still need tweaking…) and never found the time to actually do it… maybe during the upcoming holidays :slightly_smiling_face:.
Let us know how it goes!

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Yeah my experience with the meng qi board is similar…the gongs have a quite short decay even at fully cw q knob…I checked videos and it didn’t seem like mine were out of the ordinary based on other videos.

These are the best gongs I’ve heard (I think they are the paper circuit, not sure of the mods:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CFNfnd_DblP/?igshid=1lf11k0wjydff

Plumbutter also has some really pretty gongs.

With this mod I definitely feel like the gongs have more diversity of sound. I think I might put the connection on a toggle.

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Forgive me if this is obvious, but where is the best place to add the voltage starve? Is it as simple as adding a switch (or, button)? Any additional caps/resistors needed as well?

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Mine sounded a lot like in your video (they are dismanteled in a pile of pcbs right now). From the comments it appears there are no special mods, the two trimmers are simply replaced by potentiometers, and they are made from pcbs (from the paper circuit files).

Switch is a good idea, maybe a small resistor there would help to prevent from magic smoke?

I remember now I tinkered with feeding-back the output of the filter to the auxiliary input to get longer decays with some success, could self-oscillate easily this way too. I need to get back to these!

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Just a N/C Momentary switch between the battery snap and the board on the Positive. :slight_smile:

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Ah yea to be clear I think this connection I described is totally cool. It’s when I started trying to go out from the gong trimmers of one gong (middle leg) and poking around the circuit board on the other gong. It might have been to one of the “speed” knob legs the magic smoke appeared? Not sure…nothing seems to be broken yet

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im gonna put faux fur over the big wooden knobs on my dogslit to pay homage to the original din datin dudero

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Well with @amycatass going nuts with her DOGSLIT.
I felt compelled to finish the one I’m making for Peter.

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omg i love the middle piece!! that looks amazing :slight_smile:

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Got inspired by the drawings @amycatass has shared to do one of my own for what I’m planning on the output mixer for my rollz-5. I’m doing the pugix one but with an additional two channels that will be output to two 3.5mm jacks. There will be 12 3 way toggles so that you can send each soundmaker to one of these aux channels instead of their standard left/right position going out of the 1/4” on the pcb board.

The switches are DPDT with pins and 3 and 5 jumpered so they’ll be SP3Ts

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im not quite sure i understand what you mean… is it separate outputs, three different ones? or is there a feedback circuit? hm
is it just to have different output signal paths to process elsewhere?

is it just to have different output signal paths to process elsewhere?

Yep exactly. I think the things I’ll probably use it for most are to do a center, mono channel for the gongs if I’m doing bass-y kick drummy stuff (so it’s mono’d). Also as a secondary stereo pair so that I can process av-dogs separately (I really like them, but I feel like sometimes I want to have the be a little low-passed/reverbed out to fit as “pads” behind the more textural and rhythmic stuff the ultrasounds and gongs are doing).

The meng qi board has a 1/4" TRS audio out that everything get’s routed to in pugix’s mixer (from here):

I’m doing a quad opamp (TL074) instead of the 2-channel TL082 and adding 2 mono 3.5mm TS output jacks that I can route sound out of instead of the standard output. The rectangles at the bottom of my drawing are supposed to represent the 1uF input coupling caps from the schematic.

I don’t currently have any of the input mods on my board, so unfortunately I can’t really do too much in the way of feedback. I wish I would have, but I don’t want to keep desoldering this board it’s a bit of a mess hah.

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