they’re actually in some of the paper circuits - for instance 5-star brain has 5 061’s.

interesting! it seems like the 061 is just one op amp per chip- I guess the extra pins must be used to the five star brain’s functions? I know nothing about the circuit, so I’m just spitballing! for the rollz voices I’m thinking I’ll start off with 06x and replace with 07x if that causes any issues. will update with results when I finish my boards!

Thank you @ceedotgeedot! Working ok is a great place to start. I assume the SQ-1 is patched into the Master Pitch bananas?

Thanks @crucFX!!! This seems like the way to go (until a VM pops up somewhere)

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Nope, SQ-1 was going to a single barre’s blue FM input. On the gray inputs, it seems like 0v brings the frequency of the Tetrax up.

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Feeding PLUMROOLZ into the little Aulos Rungler Pitchbender Logics touch box that I made :smiley:

Also worth mentioning -
a couple of us in the FB group gathered up as much info as we could, and Kristen (the first owner of the original ROOLZ-GEWEI) provided some much needed part information for the original GEWEI (Deerhorn) from Roolz-Gewei.

When I get one built and working, I will post the Gerbers :smiley:

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Amazing work! Looking forward to seeing how this turns out and would definitely order some boards from you if you get some made! Love the idea of having a couple of these connected to some pieces of aluminum in a room and just wandering around. Very performative capabilities

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Long time lurker, finally boshed together a box of boards courtesy of Phil J, UK. Rollz 5 and 6 + Ultrasound filters and Gongs. Next box is 4 x AV dogs - anyone know what the pot does on this board?

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I always thought the AV pot was for resonance AKA Q control. A quick look at Richard Brewster’s schematics would suggest I may be finally beginning to unravel the cad’s cradle of Peter’s brain.

I’d recommend snooping around his site… there’s a wealth of information over there.

Annnnd, speaking of Richard Brewster’s schematics… as an exercise, I threw together a Ciat style version of his Rolls-5 mixer. After building the Meng Qi Rolls board, it’s pretty clear that this is an absolute must. Perhaps someone with more advanced knowledge could let me know if this looks correct.

Being that this was my first attempt at putting together a board from a schematic, am I correct in my understanding that as long as all the points on the drawing are connected correctly, actual board placement doesn’t matter? Or, do components have to be connected in the order in which they’re drawn? Still trying to wrap my head around that one.

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OMG! so hopeful to finally see a DIY deerhorn come to life

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yo that mixer design is beautiful :smiley:

So - the idea behind the organo forms is paper carries its own electrical properties and placement of components for peter was very important.

Order of components compared to schematic DOES in fact matter.
Certain circuits behave certain ways is the flow of current is altered.
say if it dumps voltage into a cap before it hits the pulldown resistor etc. etc. - just a tiny example.

However - yours follows the schematic to a T :smiley:

You plan to make boards?
If not - I can for ya :slight_smile:
I was going to make this mixer as well - but would be fun to collab.

The only thing I would do different is add the 100k’s to each output before the star crosses
something like this

Thanks, man… I do indeed plan to fabricate a few of these, as I have a handful of Rolls related projects in the pipeline. I’ll share the Gerbers once I’ve done so, for anyone else interested. And, good call on the 100K resistors… I thought about that when I was originally placing everything, but backed out. After printing a full scale version, and seeing just how small this thing is, I decided adding them would be a better idea.

And, thank you for the info regarding component placement. I sort of intuited that was the case, but sometimes when I’m looking at a board (not only Peter’s but any board), it’s hard to make heads or tails of them, and often appears random.

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One other thing - the jelly bean caps look like Peters 103’s rather than 3.3uF’s :slight_smile:

I like how this is starting to look like a weird football. I was planning to mount the 100Ks vertically, to keep the layout tight.

I couldn’t find a 3.3 cap in Peter’s Osmond library, so I made one… didn’t want to forget the value. Is there a dedicated part design for 3.3s?

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Hmmm no - not that I know of.
But honestly - the only fat jelly bean looking ones he has used are for 105’s - so I feel you’re safe.
Its similar to how I woulda made it haha.
Its code is 335. so maybe | | | V (3 lines and a tight V for 5)

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I just remembered where I thought I was being clever here… placing the lines horizontally vs. vertically. It’s like a peppermint vs. a jellybean. I figure, if I can’t confuse myself with my own icons in a Ciat setting, I’m probably doing something wrong.

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Hey all! Just found this thread after a terrible horrible night.

I put the screwdriver in the wrong hole of my deerhorn organ, twice, and broke two LEDs. What can I do I’m depressed

De solder via solder sucker and tap out , tap the LEDs out then re solder in. Be careful , but its very doable! :smiley:

Oof, I did the same thing to one of my Deerhorn LEDs. When I emailed Blasser about it, he suggested that replacing the LED could potentially cause functional damage and refused to fix it (albeit nicely). From what I gathered, changing it out would’ve required unsoldering more than just the LED, so be really careful if you want to attempt a repair.

It is possible but it is treacherous. You will have to de-solder all of the Bananas. The good news is that you may only have to deal with the dearhorn bananas. The LEDs are surface mount, so you should be comfortable with that before even considering opening it. You’ll want to be really careful. I had to do some work on my 2nd hand PB (broken gongue switch) and it was stressful, but it all worked out in the end.

this got me thinking, has anyone found led caps that work good in the routed led holes on plumbutter? I would like to be able to see them at a side angle and I think some sort of diffusing cap could help.

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