#2479

Jeeesus guys. So depressing. Idk how to solder so I guess it’s broken. $1400 turned to $0 in two days flat lol I need them LEDs to tune the fucker

1 Like
#2480

I can’t say if these will work on the PB, but I had the same thought about my Shnth and used these caps from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N3RX0DD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Because the holes were not consistent, each one requires a little tape or heat shrink tubing to get a snug fit (I wasn’t interested in gluing them in.)
My reason for doing it was mostly to tame down the harshness of the naked LED light, so I also stuffed the caps with 3mm red LEDs and clipped the leads off. I’ll add a pic later when I can get my Shnth out.

3 Likes
#2481

perfect, exactly what i was looking for. rubber shrink tubing is a great idea, i think that’d keep it from scratching too.

#2482

Worse comes to worse - as I always say - do not lose hope - there are a couple of us in here who would probably be willing to take a look at it for you.
May cost you a couple bucks - due to the workload involved - (to get to that side - all jacks on the horns have to come out so you can get under the wood. )

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This is right around where the LED’s should be on the top side.
They look to be like 1206 or a little smaller and shouldnt be too difficult to fix - as long as you didnt cut any of the tiny traces around it with the screw driver blade…

OOF - I just remembered something tho -
The reason peter probably said that you could damage your horn trying to fix the LED’s is because the Brass Screws are all connected/soldered to the boards as the are part of the antennae connection…
May be a bit more difficult that I first was thinking, but honestly, it is still doable.

1 Like
#2483

Anyone have contact details to patch point? I ordered a Coco 5 weeks ago and have been trying to get in touch with them about my order but no answer (using the contact form on their site)…

#2484

I’ve had decent success with their contact form a month or so ago, but had a Quatrax pretty significantly delayed because I think they are only staffed/doing fulfillment two days a week. Maybe they’ve just fallen behind?

1 Like
#2485

Thanks, that makes sense these days. I’m getting a little bit paranoid with such a big order and no anwer, but I guess everything will be fine :blush:

#2486

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Be sure to order a few extra: I melted one pretty badly while heating the tubing. :sweat_smile:

7 Likes
#2487

FML, so I should give up hope :slight_smile:
I likely damaged the traces around the LED as well due to the force I used thinking I was latching onto the flat head of a tighten screw.

#2488

IF it’s possible to get at those LEDS, it should be possible to scrape back some of the solder mask to get something to solder to, even with a jumper and then glue the LED to the board.
I realize that their purpose is to help tune the antenna response, but is it possible to do this by ear? If so, I’d suggest practicing that and avoiding the possibility of further damage.
Sorry to hear this happened, it does truly suck.

3 Likes
#2489

Yeah I would imagine you can just stick another LED in there? But I know literally 0 about electronics and it hasn’t been suggested.

Not sure about the tuning, I just got the thing two days ago and tried to tune it for the first time :frowning:. Maybe I’ll sell it as damaged and get a new one, makes me sick to my stomach to think about losing hundred of dollars for a screwdriver turn.

Lol and this happened right after I read on the patchpoint website THE NEW TUNING SYSTEM IS SOOO EASY AND IS A HUGE IMPROVEMENT. Yo. They moved the tuning knob right next to the LEDs!!! It used to be on the bottom of the module so at least you could tell where you were.

1 Like
#2490

Don’t give up man.
Is it still functioning at all?
Are you in the States?

It really is unfortunate.
hurts to hear of a damaged Gewei.

#2491

As someone who has done electronics assembly professionally for going on 10 years, I assure you there’s a way to repair it. Even if there’s a trace that’s been cut, it’s possible to scrape back the solder mask and jump it, and cover it with some nail polish or something.
I also imagine it’s very frustrating to have this happen so soon after getting the thing.
You picked the right place to look for help. We’ve got your back.

4 Likes
#2492

Relaxation Patch: Ocean Waves with a bit of rain. Denum and Dunst into my Slew Limiter (circuit lifted from haraldswerk)

7 Likes
#2493

I’ve been awaiting an eKalimba that I ordered about 6 weeks ago. No response when I recently emailed them about when it would ship out. I think they’re just slammed with orders and trying to catch up. Hopefully, we’ll get both of our orders blitzschnell (very fast in German). **

2 Likes
#2494

That’s «good» to hear :blush: thanks, it makes perfect sense

1 Like
#2495

Thanks friend. Yeah I’m in the states and it does function (make sound) at least.

Not sure how to do multiple replies - @ wheelersounds

I really appreciate that! What can I possibly do to procure some instructions on how to fix, or for me to provide more details about how broken it is? I genuinely can’t tell if a trace is cut or not.

1 Like
#2496

so if you remove all of the silver screws - you will be able to expose the board.

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(not my photo - it is a friends)
The issue -
if you try to unscrew the brass screws you will destroy the board.
The are soldered to the board from the underside…
You will need to try to desolder them -
If successful - you may still break the plating inside of the hole - since they are wood screws - they probably bit into the plating when going in.
The thing is - you should be able to create a jumper from the screw hole and just follow the trace and scrape some of the mask away and fix the connection.

The worry - there are multiple brass screws -

After this - the next step would be desoldering all of the jacks…

#2497

Getting around to soldering tocante studworth boards and everything is great, except for the placement of the tuning caps when using the "A:B-C:D " formation. Looking online I can find two descriptions of this arrangement of caps -

  1. from the studworth.scd file on the synthmall site:
    “A ontop of B, connected by a massive island,
    //to C ontop of D, you glob the two islands together!”

  2. The demonstration image on Peter’s IG, https://www.instagram.com/p/CC9AfW0B1nx/

Wherein its difficult (for me, at least) to understand what’s happening with the caps, especially when comparing the image with the description above.

Wondering if anyone has seen through this, and might offer their insight. :eye:

1 Like
#2498

Seems risky and difficult. Well thanks for all the info and for taking the time. I can’t believe there was no protective cover on the LEDs! (I don’t understand electronics but I would imagine it’s possible…)

1 Like