Mobenthey/Ciat-Lonbarde (synthmall) thread

[crucFX]

I am not 100% certain, but based one the SC instructions and Peter’s guide on IG - this is how I believe it is done:

And this is what I believe are the 2 “islands” that you need to glob together.
(Like 2 separate globs)

I haven’t built mine yet… lol

[haj]

“They moved the tuning knob right next to the LEDs!!!”
Where did you read this? I’ve never seen such new Deerhorn anywhere…
The LEDs are not for tuning the pitch of the oscillator, they indicate strength of antenna signal. The trimmer (small brass minus screw above red banana) is for balancing upward and downward antenna response as far as I know. Balancing, I mean, which is more stronger the upward or downward. There’s a knob below the white jack, and it’s for balancing already. So the trimmer is used when adjusting the balance goes beyond knob range (is what my understanding).

You can’t trim the strength of antenna signal itself by that. There are two of them on the PB (or old version of Deerhorn as well?) and they are not typical screw like the new one and I’m not quite sure how to balance with two… Was the lower for signal strength? My Deerhorn (stand alone one)'s signal strength is quite weak compare to deerhorn of my Plumbutter so I want to adjust somehow if possible but I guess there’s no way…

By the way, tuning the pitch of oscillators is also not so straight forward. 3 pitch knobs for master pitch, up oscillator and down oscillator. The thing is, master pitch knob changes relative pitch difference between up and down oscillators so it’s not too easy to get exact pitch for them, and this behavior may be confusing to new owner and it’s not broken but by design.

So, without the LEDs you could still use all the functionalities of the Deerhorn but volume balancing (upward and downward) need to done only by your ear.

[DJM]

Boring question - anyone successfully used pots to control pitch and undulation speed on AV Dog? Sounds simple enough.

[k_bntzn]

Looks like the star symbol right next to it would be the right place to make the jumper. Anyhow desoldering screws are easy. You just heat heat up the solder and suck it right out. When you see there is no more solder between the board and the screw you can remove it. If the screw has some solder left on it it can damage the wood when removing so try to get as much off it as possible and in some instance you dont even have to remove the screw, just lift the board right off of it after all bananas and screws are clean and desoldered.

[bunkerspreckles]

Hey, thanks for the detailed photos!
I think that you are correct after re-reading the .scd file instructions and comparing.
Looking at that last picture, I added where I thought it would make sense for the different cap values to go in order for the caps to be connected in the A:B - C:D pattern since most of the caps will be different values within each block.

I have most of the caps to make a dmol thyris, and also working on a red bistab. Will update with findings/sounds once some backordered caps arrive.

[k_bntzn]

I did that on my latest rollz5 build and it works like a charm. I put two 1 megaohms in series for the pitch and two seperate trimmers 2 megaohms for the undulation as they have different affect on the attack and release part of the envelope. Probably need some resistors too just to balance things out.

[idkei]

hi, is there a paper circuit for the rungler? didn’t seem to find it…

[cold_fashioned]

Wouldn’t one only need to remove the brass screws / wood cover from just the segment where the LEDs live?

Conversely (and hear me out, since this is an outside-the-box solution), what if one tried a little bit of surgery on the wood? That is, instead of disassembling to access the front of the PCB, what if you tried to cut a small section of the wood out, just big enough to solder in some new LEDs? I’m sure that opens up tons of other pitfalls and dangers. I’m not familiar with the layout of the Deerhorn enough to know if there’s room to do such a thing. And, of course, repairing the woodwork would be really difficult as well.

Good luck, Z - sorry to hear about your troubles.

[crucFX]

Hey I made a printable PDF from the TIF file - The Gerber for a PCB is available here as well - and a BOM
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1xwM2F43loJ-BXjxf2IZVGnHnixhu2re7?usp=sharing

@cold_fashioned - Actually yeah!! I wasn’t sure how many he stuck the screw driver into lol

and anger face at the idea of cutting into the front… lol

[ideaofnorth]

Speaking as someone who loves my PB, Coco, and CL’s approach in general, I’m really bummed to read your saga. Feels like a serious design flaw that the boards aren’t accessible without damage. Am I crazy to believe that well-designed, handmade instruments should be repairable and able to outlive their owners?

[Jonny]

Interestingly, the Patch Point website now shows this on the deerhorn page:

Each Deerhorn is factory trimmed. There is no need to trim them.

We check and calibrate each instrument to ensure that it works.

Use the antenna knob, don’t use the brass trimmers.

Touching the trimmers without our authorisation will void your warranty and return.

[jlmitch5]

it is a bummer. it does seem like most stuff is surface-mounted on the back so those kinds of repairs wouldn’t be difficult, but the LEDs and pots would require quite a bit of disassembly. I believe Serge (at least some of the panels I’ve seen on IG, not sure about every manufacturer) gets around this (but still uses cinch-style bananas) by having the panels wired.

I wish you luck on whatever you decide to do @Ecotech

Also as a note, I did have to adjust the top, screw driver trimmer on my plumbutter when I got it. I couldn’t get the orange-orange CV control of deerhorn to work with the knob fully CW like I had seen in other videos. Very slightly tweaked the trimmer CW and it started working.

[Glitcher]

Can someone confirm… On the Meng Qi version of Peters Paper ciruit APC. Does patching ‘rounds’ to ‘rounds’ cross modulate or give more variety of sounds ? I’m thinking of using latchable switches for basic rounds to square patching but also adding some screws for using test leads for round to round patching.

My test’s with test leads seem to indicate I’d be missing out if just using switches.

Thanks for any help

[crucFX]

I made a Paper Circuit document for ROOLZR

Link for the Printable PDF’s! Enjoy
If there are any questions. Please ask!

Due to the size, you will have to print it as 2 pages - it is lined up pretty much perfectly so there should be no issues using say, a cereal box, and pasting the papers to each side and then trimming around the top section where the outline is

[idkei]

thanks crucFX for sharing!!

[k_bntzn]

The new ciat instruments have seperate pieces of wood on top so it is not necessery to desolder all the screws and bananas. You just desolder the ones under that module where the problem is and lift the wood right off the pcb. It is not that hard really and i believe peter or patchpoint could easily do it but i guess peter wants the user to learn some basic repair skills. Anyone who is confident with an iron could do this with some patience and a couple of tools. Good luck!

[TanSaturn]

Keep on Rolling (It's not a The Eagles song)

Here’s a video of my Roolzr playing with my Benjolin. Roolzr is sending Clock, Data, inputs to my secondary XOR/NOR logic, and Filter CV via orange outs and audio into the Benjolin via a brown out. Please forgive my silly stream of conscious poetry Thanks again @crucFX ! It is a lovely build.

[crucFX]

That is freaking awesome.
Ya know… for the amount of rungling designs I have played with… I really need to get or build me a Benjo.
So badly.

Amazing

[TanSaturn]

You should! I etched the board and everything. So rewarding.

[samule.edmoon]

Hey everyone, I just released an episode of The Deerhorn with Patch-Point Berlin. Darrin Wiener & Peter Blasser pass the mic back and fourth to talk about the past, present & future! They even provide the background track

‎The Deerhorn on Apple Podcasts