Nice one!
Any chance for a clean schematic?
…before I start to literally rotate the paper on my desk to understand it XD

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I emailed ya back with the EuRolz schem

I havent made up a schem for MWTRS yet.
It was something I had on my to do list lol.

Ahaaaa - you are everywhere man!
I’ll lay this down today!

Have to edit this post …
So…since it is super hot in here, in the damn middle of the summer and the only place in my house that has a proper AC is the bedroom, I’ve did an Eagle session in my bed.
Anyway, I’ve used a fat, bright marker to track down the schematic from Peter’s paper and I’ve draw it in Eagle.
The only part that is still kinda “missing” is the amp that generates the “MIDO”.
I think the top resistor should go to V+, the bottom resistor and cap to ground - seems logical. Cap value is is also missing, I’d go with a 10uF.
Also, at the pulse output generators, the 4u7 caps seems a bit big, but have to test it, for sure, I’d go with something way smaller, like 10n.

The “interconnection” between the 2 shift registers of the 4015 is straight from Tom Whitwell’s Turing Machine - I know that circuit and I’m sure Tom placed that resistor and cap there for a reason.

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Looks neat! One of the resistors should indeed go to 9v the other should go to GND. On the AV dog page of the paper Peter has drawn the Mido generator in the middle with a 1uF (105) cap ( But I think 10uF will also work) and two 100k (104) resistors.

Oh, I see, I’ll take a look to that then.
I’m in the office now, working, but during the drive here, I was thinking about the 9V.
In my “Easel-Card” version, I’ve placed a 9V regulator, just to keep it as close to the original as possible, yet, I’m pretty sure, that with an overall 9V the pulse outputs will be a bit weak for an Easel.
I’m thinking about using a 12V regulator instead, yet, I think it’ll be fine with the Easel’s 15V as well.
Also, have to move the circuit from TH to SMD for sure - even for the test batch, since there are a lot of parts here and a lot of bananas - not that much room :S

I would suggest first breadboarding this before you just lay it out.
I ran it in falstad yesterday and it only… kinda works. lol

Please also note - not ALL of peters schems are 100% accurate and many things do change from schem to final very often :smiley:

Oh, hells bells - surely, I should really breadboard it, yet, this one is not that complicated.

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What I ended up doing was adding in an extra schmitt trigger - that got the 4 pulse outputs functioning.
The first 4 sit high and pull down to ground when triggered, the other 4 are “cv” outputs that just give a “beefier” trigger pulse. (I guess the beefiness would be the gate length?)

Without the extra schmitt trigger and just following the labrolz schem directly, those pulse outputs just constantly sit high at 9v.


there is a little droop in the 8th stage because it is feeding back into Data.
Clock is just a 3-Rolz.

We musta been working up the schem at the exact same time haha.

XD That is soooo me!
I’ve already made the board layout and working on the front panel.
What is this software you are using?

Anyway, seems logical. I wasn’t 100% sure about the negative pulses but know makes total sense.
I think anything above 5V is fine as pulse, yet, have to think about this again!

So.
I still have an extra inverter from the 40106, so I’ll place that before the diode node, so in theory, that’ll do the job and I’ll have positive “pulses” at the output.
Also, looking at your picture, the 4u7 caps are for sure big for there, I’d be happy with a 5ms pulse, so I really have to change those to smaller.

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this simulator is Falstad.
Spice is a really nice one too!

I’m checking Falstad now - any chance to mail me your source - I’m an efficient guy, if I could spare some minutes with not drawing it from scratch that is already good.

…honestly, I’m just lazy XD

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woo!
just got the shipping notice from Perfect Circuit for Peterlins!
:smiling_imp:

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I was tinkering with the circuit last afternoon and today morning, even sent it to an expert that I trust to check, maybe with his help, we can come up with something.
I’m not really familiar with Falstad, but getting there.

I’ve managed to modify the end circuit. I left only a few bits there and just placed a few passive parts to convert the output to pulses - for sure, have to calculate the correct value for the cap, since it is way too short now with the 220p, but for now, it is ok.

As far as I knew, the high output of the 4015 should be 0 to Vdd, I’ve tried to set it to 12V in the software, but the whole thing stopped working…

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Sorry for the noon question but I’d like tu use my Moog CO-251 with my Sidrax and my Peter/Benjolin (and very soon, a Cocoquantus 2) so I’m gonna buy a Low-Gain Electronics Banana ↔ Eurorack format jumbler at Schneidersladen this week…

…but I’m worried about the negative voltage the CP-251 can produce…

I understand the Plumbutter 2 is able to produce negative voltage and it seems that most (if not all) Ciat-Lonbarde instruments can cope with negative voltage… am I wrong ?

Thank you for your attention.

Cheers,

A.

Low-Gain has a format jumbler with attenuator for each channel that prevents negative voltages from being applied to the output.
this is the Schneidersladen link:

I saw that one, but they don’t have it in stock… and I’m wondering if the attenuator is really necessary with Ciat-Lonbarde instruments.

You can always make your own? It’s just jacks and wire in a box. It’s not the potentiometer that prevents the negative voltage, it is a diode. On the plum, the rolls brown jacks (and sometimes what they are connected to) are what you have to watch out for (when connecting to non-CL). Attenuators are handy (but not necessary) for CL! I’d recommend the mido centered ones.

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If so, I’ll pass that option. Thanks !

Came across an interesting patching technique with the Rollzer and was curious if anyone else had tried it:

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Absolutely!
Really fun to do with Fourses, Fyrall, DDDm2, the Ovals, Rollz-5, etc. lol

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