Awesome info, thanks @mlogger!

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Your welcome, and thanks for your support and sharing your crow code :slight_smile:

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Right channel of what exactly?

Doh. Cocoquantus. Right looper.

Are you using banana or 3.5mm jack for audio input?

I recently picked-up a Din Datin Dudero Srine:

Initial opinion is that it’s the weirdest instrument I’ve ever been in front of, and I’ve played quite a few weird ones (including most of the modern C-L stuff).

The opacity of the patch points is simultaneously fun and frustrating; adding a connection seems equally as likely to add variation to knob turns as it is to either have no apparent effect or to apparently freeze up the circuit. So far, I personally find this randomness engaging, but playing with the DDD is mostly a reactivate experience.

Knob turns in the initial state seem to be some kind of sample and hold or ASR trigger, as well as an envelope, and stereo panning based on clockwise/counterclockwise movements. Generally, the DDD seems to favor high frequencies (which can be a struggle) though it brings the bass too.

When patched, I’ve mostly been appreciating the abrupt timbral possibilities:

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The two big Knobs seem like turn-tables but Selector has only un-sanctified frequencies.

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Pretty much. Selector can only decide if they keep going or be something else

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thanks for taking the time to say so! I’ve been interested in this synth for a while to add to the CL family but I know I’m getting a stuber whenever that comes out so I’ll play with that and see how I get along with the form factor before moving forward
I for sure would want it to get nice and bassy

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I’m likely picking up the Stuber too- before I ordered the Srine a couple weeks ago, Peter B said it was going to be another few months.

Something I forgot to touch on: the built-in speakers on the DDD are actually pretty cool; I didn’t think I’d care about them, but being able to pick it up and play the DDD anywhere is very nice. 9v battery operation is obviously different from the 12v PSU, but I’d consider that a plus AND the battery has an actual compartment, rather than the dangling clip on the C-L stuff.

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Is there a Stuber arrival date?

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by chance…
can you explain the difference between the Fryall and Srine cores?
(i am assuming “Core” is meant to describe the synth engine in each model)

thanks for any info!

According to the not super informative DDD website, Srine is four triangle waves and Fyrall is “straircased philaments of saw waves.” Not sure what the differences are otherwise, as I’ve only played the Srine.

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yeah…i agree…hardly any info.
i like Peter’s aesthetic with the raw and early 90s looking website.
but…
i wish there was a lot more info and specific sound samples of both.
:slight_smile:

Peter B explicates some info on the design process of the DDD’s in an essay here; it’s definitely not a manual, but it’s interesting and informative nonetheless.

Part of the appeal of the DDD for me, though, is that it surprises; I’m mostly futilely guessing/trying to remember which jack does what and having to readjust myself to how the knobs will function patch-by-patch. This lack of stability for me is part of fun, but I can see how many people would be frustrated by it.

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thanks for the info!
agreed…
i do like the happy accidents that occur with Ciat-Lonbarde gear.
i use a lot of CL gear.
it’s just when there’s a price tag that big on an item i like to know quite a bit more about it’s sonics.
:slight_smile:

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Here’s my build of the DDDM2 with PB’s paper circuits:


Still exploring but it’s a fun noisy one!

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Got the paper circuits ready to build some Rollz5 modules and incorporate them into my diy system. Does anyone have any tips for modifications or suggestions to enhance these circuits further or is the standard build interesting enough.

Anyone have issues with powering them from a single power source. They’ll all go to my diy bus board which chucks out 9v regulated DC.

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I’ve built the basic Rollz set (3,4,5,6,6, 2 filters, 2 dogs and 2 gongs) and for my tastes, the rolls and the filters are complex enough but I’m likely going to modify the dogs and gongs with pots in the “x” and “y” positions (I believe this is MengQi mod). As stock, the only parameters adjustable are the sensitivity and the frequency (as a result of the frequency input.) I know a lot of builders are into multiple sets of rolls and having the hairy caps switchable or swap able but the basic set is enough for me.
A regulated 9v supply will work great but you may want to add a few protection diodes and a thermal fuse as PB did in the Fourses and Fyrall as you’ll be exposing the circuit to touch.

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The most useful mods are documented on Richard Brewster’s blog here:

I’m not sure as to the point of the yellow output from the ultrasound filter, though. Maybe as a clock to a Cocoquantus, but I don’t know where you’d patch it in the Rollz.

My build is going slowly. I thought I’d get more done in lockdown but trying to do my job, get back into running and coparent two little girls is taking up most of my time and energy

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