#1254

Looking forward to the recording. I’ve never tried this yet. I’m still a little spooked by the report of a Maths getting fried by a banana.

1 Like
#1255

I believe the key is just to avoid the brown jacks on the Plumbutter. You could also try using an attenuator/rectifier.

3 Likes
#1256

Yeah exactly! If there’s one system I don’t stress over voltage too much with, it’s Make Noise. This patch was more Make Noise into Plum than vice versa though. I think the CV out from Deerhorn was the only thing I fed the Shared System from Plum :grimacing:

#1257

Here’s a little sample from my Instagram:

Full version will be uploaded to YouTube, though it’s not worthy of being 7 minutes long haha this style is not my wheelhouse at all :sweat_smile:

6 Likes
#1258

They do go together well. Super wide stereo spread too.

1 Like
#1259

A couple questions for you Sidrax owners:

  1. The pressure on the piezo creates the voltage for the envelopes on each bar (correct me if that’s wrong) – how much range is there in terms of speed and envelope shape? Can you get a sharp attack and/or decay?

  2. Does the wood need to be treated over time from all the touching? Do you just touch up with tung oil?

1 Like
#1260

haven’t had mine long enough to think about your second question yet, but i do find a wide range of envelope shapes and times based on how it is played. for this reason, it’s a great instrument for me to have out while testing out max patches based around sampling/granular/timestretching, since it spans the range of shorter blips and bursts to longer swells and sustained tones

it took a bit of time for me to get used to how the sidrax feels and responds to touch, likely due to its design being much different from the touch plate or other pressure sensitive instruments i’ve used. after spending that time and practicing with it, i don’t really have complaints on the envelope response. it may not be the most smooth or consistent each and every time, but a sidrax (or any CL instrument) probably would not be on your radar if you were too concerned about patch repeatability and precision

2 Likes
#1261

Do you know if there’s anyway to change the response at all?

I agree with everything you’ve said. And I absolutely love my Tet n Sid but I do wish that sometimes it was a little “less” sensitive. I find it tough to play softer or dronier things without the jittery sound of my anxiety coming through the barres too!

2 Likes
#1262

You can adjust the screws on the wood bars to be tighter or looser, and affect the action that way. Don’t screw them down too tight or you might damage the piezos underneath.

1 Like
#1263

When I had one, I often used a stereo 1/8" to 2x mono 1/4" out cable. One of the channels gives you the attack and sustain, the other the sustain and release. It made it more… droney.

1 Like
#1264

Perfect, thanks! That’s what I thought, though I’ve tried adjusting that way before and didn’t really notice too much of a noticeable difference. Maybe I’ll try again :+1:

#1265

I’ve found the same thing Kris!

I find myself using it in that way more often than not for the reasons you mentioned.

Only problem is that, that method doesn’t work as well when feeding them into the stereo mini jacks of the other CL stuff :sweat_smile:

#1266

maybe you could to customize a mini jack and trim one channel…

#1268

Maybe someone could haha but not me :joy:

#1269

The piezos are a pretty crude sensing device. You’re not going to get a whole lot of responsiveness from them. I wonder if they could be replaced with a FSR?

#1270

yeah i haven’t noticed any response change from tightening or loosening either, at least not in how that translates to the envelopes. looser barres can rattle and stuff which is cool of course. i really wish i could figure out a way to reliably make sustained/held tones with it. not sure it’s possible beyond little tricks like rubbing in circles or tuning 2 barres to be the same and alternating pushing them. all this said, i looooove sid

if someone made a EG add on for sid/tet i bet it would be very popular haha.

1 Like
#1272

It’s funny you mention the “expanded with envelopes” idea for the Sid & Tet.

I’ve actually started doing interviews for a Ciat Lonbarde based podcast I’m hoping to start releasing in August and the first interview I did, I asked the guest what their dream CL instrument would be. Their response was exactly what you said. An expanded Sid/Tet with controllable envelopes :joy: I think I’m with you both

I’ve found playing the barres with a banana cable gently get lead to some interesting textures too, especially if they’re loose

7 Likes
#1273

Hey, did you ever figure out more about this? I checked out your instagram and you’ve got some really cool videos on there!

I’ve got some pcbs of the conrad papers circuits coming, and I’m trying to wrap my head around what’s all possible with them. I’d love to be able to put a jack in the preamp and/or anti-preamp to get my guitar (or other sources) in there

I just tried to draw a schematic of the preamp circuit. I don’t know if it’s 100%, I’m really new to all this stuff. It’s here:

EDIT: attempted to model the circuit in a simulator. At this point I’ve gone over the connections a bunch so I’m fairly sure that everything is set up right in here and it can be used as a schemativ, but the simulation doesn’t seem to be amplifying the signal at all.
If anyone spots any issues, please let me know, I’ve spent way too much time on this hah http://tinyurl.com/yc96olcc

Do you or anyone happen to know where would be a good place to tap the guitar (ts input) into. I was thinking maybe a DPDT 2-way toggle switch to switch between piezo and guitar, but based on your instagram, you’re getting some really cool interactions between the two.

Really looking for any info (from anyone) that points me in the right direction of understanding this stuff more!

#1274

hey, i’m definitely not the one to ask about technical aspects of the builds, haha. i managed to make a pedal i really enjoyed though - i wired the positive tip of the guitar jack to both legs 3 and 4, then the negative tip to the 1m resistor, but i can’t remember which side? just rock it circuit bending style haha

1 Like
#1275

No worries! I’m definitely just wading through a bunch of stuff I don’t understand too.

Just to check when you say pins 3 and 4 you mean the two marked 3 and 4 here? https://www.componentsinfo.com/ic-lm358-pinout-equivalent/

I don’t know much but it does seem like going to ground would make things silent? But I could definitely be wrong