I think I might revisit IFM. I’ve been loving Dunst (see my forthcoming digital album named after it). I just ordered a Fourses 3 years after selling my first one.
Mister Grassi intrigues me, but I don’t see demos showing LFO range usage. I wonder if someone here can help? What are the inputs and outputs? The manual doesn’t seem to say. I’ve heard reference to clocking it externally, but I have seen no evidence. I know my rungling, but only in Benjolin and Double Knot.
Any help most appreciated.

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I received my SHNTH already!!
I decided to check it out through an MS-50g with Tape Delay and Space Delay!

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Stuber noiz weapon has arrived…
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CEGW0PFJ-hj/

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Awesome, I’ve waiting for someone on here to get one. Really interested in it.

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for a pretty lowtech/imo great solution I’m a huge advocate for one of these

can be had for like less than $10 and would allow you to do what you’re doing now but w/ the benefit of direct line in :slight_smile:

edit: only minor quibble would be that I think it’s just mono which might not agree w/ some CL gear and would require a summing stage / mixer / whatever, but for price and convenience pretty hard to beat imo. Esp if you wanna do video stuff w/ dece quality audio and w/o syncing etc.

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Mine is out for delivery now! :partying_face:

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Oh nice!

How does it play with discrete attacks and such? I’ve mainly heard samples where it’s somewhat drone-y so it’s hard to tell what it’s doing vs the drone stuff.

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How could I simultaneously affect the pitch of the Cocos loopers?

I’m thinking I’d need to send a CV signal into the loopers purple FM, I often modulate the pitch from e.g. PB Gongs or Sidrax CV outs but can I do it with something constant?

here’s a better example of Stuber noiz…
warping with MANGL and Bounds scripts by @Justmat

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a quick and dirty demo of Stuber vs an op-1 drum loop. Starts dry then sweeping the filters, then patching things randomly. :smiling_face_with_three_hearts:

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a nature performance with the SHNTH

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Really enjoyed that! thank you

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I have a question for the DIYers:
Is there any disadvantage, from an electronics points of view, to using 3.5mm mono sockets (Eurorack style) compared to 4mm banana?

I’d like to use 3.5mm as I have a lot of Eurorack patch cables, including Stackcables, and I’d rather not double up on patch cables, just because the format is different.

I’ve started a Rollz-5 build, and I have 2 Fourses PCBs to do next. I’ve only done the Rollz so far for the Rollz-5, but I’m worried that using 3.5mm sockets will affect the functionality of the Fourses, as that has a lot of androgynous touch points, whereas the Rollz-5 is more traditional input / output synth workflow. If using 3.5mm sockets is a big mistake I’d like to correct it before I get any further along :slight_smile:

I know that the 3.5mm sockets short to the ground pin when the plug is inserted. In the picture below, only the positive going outputs have their ground pins connected. The other, androgynous, nodes do not have their ground pins connected to anything.

Does this sound okay or am I making a big mistake using 3.5mm sockets / plugs?

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Yes, feed them a DC CV into their purple FM inputs. The grey s&h outputs from the center Quantussy section of the coco are great for this.

The grey Quantussy outs modulate in a S&H manner though? I’m trying to create the effect that is like turning both looper pitch/speed knobs at the same time but by a defined amount. If you have a Sidrax and patch a Sid blue FM into the Coco looper purple FM you get some pitch adjustment but not loads. Don’t know why this does what it does but it’s something like this but with a greater pitch range.

I don’t think that’s exactly right. A ts jack just carries two signals, one of them being ground. There is a 3rd switching pin that you can connect to things and it will use that connection when the Jack is removed.

I would probably connect ground on all jacks, and not connect the switching pin to anything.

Please don’t take my word for it, I’m new to this stuff, just what I’ve picked up so far.

I meant to write “momentarily” short to the ground pin on insertion. Which is why they shouldn’t be used for power distribution:
https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/connector-basics/audio-connectors

I think as long as the ground pin isn’t connected to anything it should be okay - it will connect to nothing, in effect, just like having no cable inserted.

ah gotcha…that sounds right. the tip which carries the signal goes to ground for a little bit (or if you don’t patch ground to anything), nothing.

I think where it might get weird is if you start trying to patch things together (like devices on different psus or eurorack and your devices). I’ve been using this thing when patching between and things don’t work right unless I connect the ground jack mentioned (even though they’re connected to the same power strip…tho the psu i’m using for my gerassic organ is 2 prong) https://www.perfectcircuit.com/low-gain-electronics-utl-1.html

I think having the sleeves of everything connected to ground prevents the need to have a special ground cable, every cable is a ground cable

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The biggest issue is - sometimes - no matter who we are - we can make mistakes…
I suggest making the actual Rollz something other than 3.5mm - if you accidentally cross patch one into your system and fry an expensive module, you will be very unhappy…

Positive Pulse outputs tapping into a node base with a resistor and taking out the negative aspect.
Its been covered above in the forum a couple times. take a gander.

Scroll up and check out what I am doing with EuRoolz - incorporating the arp-serge assemblage to allow for proper CV control.

It has tons of potential,

I mentioned that above because you mentioned inter connectivity.

Question about sharing ground between paper circuits

I have a few different boxes with paper circuits in them, each powered on their own 9v battery. I’m curious if it would be advised to add a ground jack to each box so they can share a ground when patched together. If this is the case, for each box could I connect a banana jack to the solder pad pictured, in order to make common ground possible? Forgive me if this is nonsensical, I’m fairly new to this.

ground

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