#1580

i had been trying to find:

8 X [511-TL082CN] (082)
8 X [511-TL084CN] (084) 2 X [511-4013] (4013)

and the online shops i knew of didn’t have 'em. but @jlmitch5 mentioned tayda which does indeed have them, so maybe i’ll just go through them! thanks to you both for the help.

while i’m asking incredibly entry-level questions, what else should i be assuming about this bom? it’s pretty spare, and this would be the first bom i’ve put together that didn’t have a linked spreadsheet of parts and suppliers (or come prepared with all parts from the jump). for instance, the resistors section just have their values: 4 X 220, 44 X 100K, etc. am i assuming ceramic?

#1581

For resistors I use 1/4W carbon film.
For non polarised capacitors I use mylar film except for the very small values, for which I use ceramic discs.
For the polarised caps I use aluminium electrolytic.
However, I don’t really understand the differences between the capacitor types and I use mylar as it looks cool!

1 Like
#1582

they are here https://www.taydaelectronics.com/tl082-tl082cp-j-fet-dual-op-amp-ic.html

but for what it’s worth, the newest iteration of the meng-qi board (2017) is silkscreened for 072/074’s, and those are lower noise parts than 08x. I used those.

1 Like
#1583

i don’t believe it matters for most of the caps…the bom i found through mw did mention that film (the ones that look like boxes) does not work for the hairy caps on the gongs…I have no idea if that’s actually the case, as I don’t understand too much either. But I used tantalum for those, which basically looks like big ceramic ones. the rest I used film and aluminum (I think?..the metal cylinder ones) electrolytic.

I used metal, I’m sure carbon is fine too. the difference is the tolerance, metal is 1%, carbon is 5%…at the end of the day we are talking about a noise box, so it probably doesn’t matter too much, heh. the other variable of resistors is the wattage rating. I used 1/4 watt, I believe 1/8 watt is fine too…the holes are spaced to work with either (for 1/8 you’ll leave a little more of the legs on each side before the crease).

The non polar capacitors are all the standard film box size except for the 104s which have a smaller footprint for some reason…I just bent one of the legs on my 104 box film caps and creased underneath around the middle of the cap and it worked fine.

For the electrolytic caps, you want whatever on the lower voltage spectrum. I have various voltage ratings based on what was in stock, some 16v/35v/50v…they all seem fine. note that higher voltage might get bigger than the footprint on the board.

O and one more thing, the bom that is floating around (like in the description of the modular addict product page) is for the 2014 board but they are nearly identical…except there’s like 4 resistors that aren’t used in the 2017 I think (can’t remember exactly), and more important, there’s no vactrol needed as that vactrol starve circuit has been removed from the 2017 edition (if you look around you’ll see many people had trouble getting it to work).

4 Likes
#1584

Fixed the power issues with Charm and converted it to SMD and through mount for the banana jacks.

charm
charm1009×729 76.1 KB

charm 2
charm 21009×701 16.5 KB

blasser_18_ddd-charm
blasser_18_ddd-charm1003×403 22.2 KB

3 Likes
#1585

Maybe you should start your own thread for these PCBs?

5 Likes
#1586

That’s not a terrible idea! I am newer to the forum and figured it would be best to post within a topic regarding ciat-lonbarde.

#1587

Yeah it’s all good. So what about this Charm circuit do you like? What does it do? What does it sound like? How do you plan to use it?

1 Like
#1588

no idea yet!
It is Peter’s Design that he spoke about in the Oval Synths document where he mentions they are like parasites awaiting to be patched into.
I am unsure if they are actually used in Fyrall or Srine, or if they ended up in Stuber, I am not sure!!

It was brought up in muffwiggler at one point and someone said that they had asked Peter about it and he had mentioned that this particular circuit is untested.

That person also mentioned it would be worth taking a look at the power, and sure enough, there are things that were incorrect on one of the 324’s.
I fixed that and hope to run a small batch of 5 of these to test them out and see what they do, lol.

4 Likes
#1589

Received my new cocoquantus yesterday. Looks like Peter has switched to a different style now (no more lozenge). I like both designs. This probably makes it easier to understand what’s happening with the quantussy?

IMG_8606
IMG_86063024×4032 2.02 MB

25 Likes
#1590

If anyone here is interested. I’ve made a digital only album from a week’s improvisations all based around Dunst. Hence the title.

10 Likes
#1591

Sorry for a stupid question but this Dunst is eurorack, yes?

1 Like
#1592

Yes, Ieaskul F. Mobenthey.

1 Like
#1593

that is gorgeous!!!
The woods are really purdy too!

2 Likes
#1594

He teased / showed this on instagram a couple weeks back. Did you order direct from CL or patchpoint? If I had to guess, I would say that this method is probably much less time-intensive and more repeatable. As cool as the lozenge is, it’s probably a pain to manufacture. I get the impression that he is largely a one-person operation (not including patch point), so anything that can be done to save time is probably appreciated. I love my lozenge, but I’m a tiny bit jealous, because this also looks cool. Plus, you got a really beautiful combination of woods in yours. Enjoy – and share a little video of the light show!

2 Likes
#1595

do you mind sharing how you used the dunst and what else was involved?

1 Like
#1596

He dropped the epoxy(?) over the lights on the Din Datin Duderos too. Not a huge deal, but the diffusion on the LED was preferable.

1 Like
#1597

Wow Peter has outdone himself with the wood on this one! Beautiful! Treasure it! It’s still hands down my favourite instrument.

4 Likes
#1598

Ok I already got some good advice here but since I have no idea what I’m doing, I’m wondering if anyone could explain this to me like i have never seen a schematic or pcb in my life. Which component goes where the circled things that I numbered are?

And, if “decay” is an input, do I put a 1/4” jack there? If so, which holes go to which points on the jack?

The pitch, chaos, resonance are pots, but decay is not? #1 seems to be an output according to the master legend but there’s only one thru hole so I don’t get how that connects to a 6.35mm stereo or 3.5mm mono jack.EDIT: I think i get the output part, i just dont know where to connect the ground cable from the jack*

I get that the “0” rectangles are jumpers

I understand the battery symbol

I think the cross closest to the spikering symbol is for a wire connection but the other bordered one and the spiky ones confuse me and are not present on the master legend

I know you guys said something about a hairy 472 film cap but I don’t know which symbol that is. I’m also pretty sure I didn’t order that so I’m wondering if one of the components I did order from this invoice below would work.

I was hoping I wouldn’t have to wait another two weeks for a tayda shipment with just one order of capacitors but maybe i can find it elswhere

I know you guys have tried to answer some of this before but I get lost if it’s not very specific. Sorry about that

Any help would be very much appreciated

image
image1575×2100 820 KB
image
image770×635 69.3 KB
image
image757×713 87.5 KB

1 Like
#1599

Decay is a also a pot, it’s part of the pulse generator cricuit.
Look at pugix’s website for a lot of details about this circuit :slight_smile:
You can’t really replace the 472 film caps with anything else if you want the expected frequency response, but in the meantime you could use 103 (cutoff freq will just be higher).

1 Like