Mobenthey/Ciat-Lonbarde (synthmall) thread

[lloydcole]

Detail, I’m afraid I can remember. From this photo, which must be from early in the sessions, I can see that the sound sources are Dunst, and Dunst through the Make Noise stereo resonant filter, and also that sound processed through Morphagene, the Oscillators are the Instruo complex osc, Make Noise STO, and the Humble Audio quad FM thing. None of which I own, now!
If I recall correctly Dunst is spitting out digital noise, which becomes the clock once sent to Maths, that clock is then sent to Pamela which can then distribute various divisions and multiplications, it is also sent to the SynthTech e102 Digital Shift Register which allows me to send one source to 4 destinations. The same thing is happening with the Modcan Quad LFO, 1 clock creating 4 synchronized LFOs. Morphagene is also being clocked so the glitches are ‘musical’.
The STO and the Instruo are passing through low pass gates, Optomix and Takaab. Audio is also being processed by Rossum Panharmonium.
The melodies, I can’t recall for sure, but I can see from the photo that the ARC Serge sequencer isn’t being used, it is almost certainly a combination of the Dunst digital noise and the e102 digital noise combined and passed through a pair of CV offset attenuverters by Addac, then quantized by Intellijel Scales.
The gates will be further randomised by the Noise Engineering Integra Funcitus.
Once the basic patch is making music, I play it in real time, adding and subtracting elements and modulating to taste. All the modular sound passes through Worng Sound Stage, and there may be extra echo and reverb added at the mixer before the A to D.
I’m fairly certain, later in the week I added Make Noise DPO to the patch, possibly replacing the Instruo complex osc, which I loved, but grew more and more tired of all the hidden functions. If you look very closely you can see I’ve had to print little Dymo lables on it. I sold it shortly thereafter and I now have a much simpler, but maybe slightly more complex system.
I spent 6 days doing this with small changes, tweaks, improvements from day to day. When finished the recordings from days 1, 2, 4 and 6 sounded best, and they comprise the album.

[yghartsyrt]

thanks for the in-depth information. some very valuable information in there.

[SPIKE]

question for all of you that a way more tech savvy than me…

so i have a few Tocantes and a Srine.
i only use them in a studio setting.
my issue is with the built in speaker when working at low volumes through my system.
it can be difficult to hear the effected source versus the internal speaker blaring away in the room.
(especially with the Srine when it starts shrieking)

would de-soldering the speakers affect the sonic behavior of these things?
(i assuming it wouldn’t but…)

when removing the connection should i remove the hot or ground lead to the speaker?
(i wish the speaker would dissconnect when the line out is used)

i want to do as little to these as possible if i can.

thank you for any and all help!

---

update…

so…after talking with another audio engineer…i just dove in!

it was really simple…i was sure to label which lead was ground before removing the wires.
(all of the wires are just gray in there)
i went ahead and de-soldered the connections and taped them off so they won’t accidentally touch anything else.

now the Srine and all of the Tocantes are WAY easier to use in the studio!

also discovered there’s a 9volt battery hiding in the Srine so i removed that as well.

[encephalitislethargi]

Summary

*ANOTHER EDIT:
I used 220k for the Chaos resistor
i used 10k for x and y
Im using a ceramic .1uf ceramic capacitor where the 472 poly should go because i have no more .01uf poly capacitors or any polys that are under 47uf at the moment, which im sure is causing some sort of issue
I attached all 4 pots
I attached speaker wire to the 2 nodes and the 3 filter outs
i attached the battery
I took a black cable and a red cable out of the 2 thru holes from the little 3 pointed crown i labelled “6” in the photo

now, im trying to figure out how my Rolz5 5 Roll & 6 Roll should interact with this. I don’t know what “6”, the crown is supposed to do. in my APCS circuits those are the main outputs and the right is positive and left is negative to the 1/4" out jack. Does anyone know how i should be using this? I guess it’s an input for pinging?

I did have a little success taking the Bandwidth out and maybe the High Pass out one at a time to a 1/4" jack with gator clips and attaching the exposed wires coming from the contact points of my Rollz Circuits to the wire from my Delay Node on the Spikering but it was very noisy. The other problem there, if i’m even using the out port correctly, is that im not sure what to connect the 1/4" ground to.

I can’t tell exactly how Richard has connected his contact mic to the crown input, but i assume thats where i should be making contact with some of my Rollz wires. or should i put a 3.5mm port there?

One of the problems, besides me not knowing anything about electronics, is that I’m not sure how the Rollz work on their own. If they’re are anything like the APCS (of which i’ve built two), you just connect the patch points together randomly (in the case of APCS with buttons, in this case: just touching bare wire together) and those connections cause a different pulse pattern. So what i tried after i was finished building was taking different outs to my 1/4" jack, and trying to touch random wires from each Rollz circuit together, then also touch the delay and chaos nodes to those connections as well. at certain points, i did get some interesting sound, but the noise floor was very high ( possible grounding issue) and twice i even got a response from the pitch and chaos pots. but nothing like what i’ve seen from the Pugix blog post or @mlogger’s instagram video demo

apologies for clogging up this thread with dumb questions

(is this good for the 472? or is the voltage too high? https://www.taydaelectronics.com/4-7nf-0-0047uf-100v-5-polyester-film-box-type-capacitor.html)

---

alright, i think i got it working for the most part with low pass out, grounded the out port to the rollz pcb. swapped out the .1uf ceramics with 100uf 50v poly’s and connected them all together. not getting extremely pronounced results from the filter, but it’s there and most of the pots have at lesat some effect. hoping this will be resolved when i replace the 100uf caps with the 472

(gets interesting around 1:25)

@future__________

[trippingonwires]

Hey, I’m building a paper nobsrine and have a couple of questions if anyone can assist. I’ve built rollz and lil sidrassi so have a fair idea of what I’m doing but can’t find much on this build amongst the forums.

I’m unclear on the G Switch. It says it’s a special switch but the symbol reminds me of a capacitor (with the circle hole for short/neg lead). Judicious pausing on this video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=81BavtmN8aI) does indeed look like some fairly sizeable electrolytics are in place. Can anyone confirm? Are there any suggested values? Are they ‘hairy’ - different values will work with different effects? Does it matter if the two G Switches match (on both halves of the build)?

In that video there’s an off-board switch which is the circuit ‘on’ switch. There’s loads of theoretical info about this here - https://econtact.ca/17_4/blasser_ovalsynth.html - but on a more practical level, what’s going on with the ‘on’ switch. Would a regular momentary push work? And is it just connected to the battery or is there more to it?

Thanks for any info/advice.

[encephalitislethargi]

i do think those are hairy capacitors. on the Aluminum Phosphate i used .001uf Capacitors there

[trippingonwires]

I thought I’d seen the G symbol somewhere else but couldn’t track it down. That definitely helps get me started, thanks.

[Coitmusic]

The G switch is just that: a switch. I used two single pole latching push button switches on mine, but you could use just about any kind of switch here.
There are 3 big electrolytic caps, all 470 uF. As long as they are rated for 10v or more you’ll be fine. 16v is the most common value above that. You can always go with a higher rated but if you’re buying new, it might cost you more.
I had some issues with the sound quality of mine (too harsh, for my taste) with the NJM386’s I had and ordered some of the 386s available at Tayda. I found the lower gain of this UTC version more to my liking:

LM386 LM386L Audio Power Amplifier IC

Finally, and most importantly: there is a missing 10M resistor on each of the halves of the circuit that is part of the oscillator on that side. Full credit to @barrford for finding it and telling me about it while I was building mine. Without them you will only get sound on a turn in one direction of the pot. Here’s his image with the resistors colored in green and blue with a colored line for the missing resistor:

[trippingonwires]

Loads of info, thanks, especially the missing 10M’s, would never have figured that out!!!

[mattlowery]

Hi everyone. I have a Coco arriving on a Friday, and plan to spend part of the weekend getting acquainted. Hainbach’s video is super helpful. Is there any other required reading/watching that you’d recommend?

[corpusjonsey]

What if Peter did a analog/digital hybrid ex: Tetrax with a Shnth inside - Shnthrax?

[Helen]

@mattlowery

I have a Coco arriving on a Friday, and plan to spend part of the weekend getting acquainted. Hainbach’s video is super helpful. Is there any other required reading/watching that you’d recommend?

The Hainbach video is very useful, for sure, and would have been the first thing I would have linked!

There’s a couple of MW posts that I also found helpful, albeit a lot of reading!:

1. COCOQUANTUS 2 “GETTING STARTED MANUAL”
   https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=173653&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=

2. CocoQuantus Function Map
   https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=147127&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=

There’s a fair bit of overlap but enough useful stuff to make them both worth wading through!
And a good bit of time on YouTube isn’t wasted - search for Cocoquantus and just watch until your brain starts leaking out of your ears!

In the end, though, getting hands-on is the best way to start figuring it out. And if I had to give a tip - bearing in mind I’m definitely no expert - I’d say: resist the temptation to plug everything into everything else. Sure, it’ll work, mostly, but I’ve learned that there’s a lot to be said for patching less, not more. If you have Insta, check out Panic Girl’s feed (https://www.instagram.com/panic.girl.666/) - her most recent Coco vid uses precisely two cables and is a joy to hear!

[cold_fashioned]

I agree, hands on is the best. Don’t be afraid to tear down the patch and start over, or to clear the buffer and start over. That’s one of my favorite things about the cocoquantus – it’s quick work to build up a sound(scape). Of course, it can also get out of hand quickly too!

I also agree about less is more in terms of patching, but sometimes more is also more. It’s chaotic at its core, so adding to that can lead to some great results too. Regarding panic girl’s posts, I think the reason they only show a couple cables is that there is a lot of pre-processing that has gone on. I’ve learned that you can often peel away patch cables after building your sound without changing things much. Of course, that’s just my opinion.

Tip: leave the dolby switches in the “up” (on) position for now. That usually yields desired results. After a while, you can start tweaking those for different results. Sometimes, with quiet sources, you’ll need to click the switch to the middle position while recording. This introduces a little noise, but that is often a desired side-effect of working with the cocoquantus.

I watched the Hainbach video a ton of times, but once you get the hang of it, you’ll start to get a feel for how you want to use it.

[crucFX]

Since there is a ton of talk about the coco…
Has anyone ever taken a crack at the paper version from the PDF?

I reworked and high res’d it and such.

These I will not be selling if I do make them into PCB’s - but I’ll probably just print this out and go the paper route lol
Does anyone know what the nodes are?
Especially the ones from the 4052 - those really throw me for a loop -

These are my best guesses lol.

Also speaking of Nosbrine - Thanks for much for mentioning those 10m resistors - i too would have never noticed!! @Coitmusic

[cold_fashioned]

Try this document, it might help illuminate some of the symbols:

Cocoquantus

[Jonny]

@mattlowery

Is there any other required reading/watching that you’d recommend?

I enjoyed watching Peter’s talk at Control in Brooklyn. In the beginning he demonstrates how he tests the cocoquantus and it’s really different than a lot of the demos you’ll see. Turning the white noise that happens on startup into ‘the beach’ is my favorite part.

An Evening with Peter Blasser - Live from Control 11.07.2017

On that note, I’ve really tried to focus on the quantussy more before using the delays. The interconnected nature of it has been creating a lot of sounds that I don’t think I’ve experienced in any oscillator before, or at least would not have thought to patch.

Has anyone used the yellow coco digital out for anything interesting? I have a few ideas but it seems to be one of the outputs I don’t see people making much use of.

[jlmitch5]

I watched this before bed the other night and had a good nights sleep. Great vibes

[crucFX]

Roolz-5 interfacing with Modular - Gate Grinder and KOSMO VCLFO -

Roolz-5 x Gate Grinder x KOSMO VCLFO - Roolz being Roolz

[crucFX]

Peter just posted a new video!

Testing 7 Cocoquanti (ASMR?)

[encephalitislethargi]

Just want to make sure that I’m ordering the correct part here: the 472 mentioned in this blog post is a .0047uF film capacitor, right? Does this 100v one work or is that wrong? I can’t find any information on what these should be besides “472”

4.7nF 0.0047uF 100V 5% Polyester Film Box Type Capacitor