Building upon the general Coco conversation, does anyone have any tips/advice for using the Coco live and also transitioning from one track to another?

Trying to think up a pretty stripped down setup for live shows. I’m currently thinking of picking up an Intellijel pallet case to house a Morphagene and a few other bits, all running into the Coco. I may also run a Field Kit into the Morphagene for some live sampling fun. Slightly worried about achieving good gain-staging with all them things running into each other and also how I could manage to transitions.

From what I can tell, the Dolby down is like a ducking effect.

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Someone correct me if I’m wrong here: the Dolby switches in the down position mute the signal of their respective input if there is a signal present at the other. So for example if you had a feedback buffer recorded and playing, and its switch is down, it would be muted whenever there’s a signal at your input (with the input switch at center). So yeah, very much like a sidechain/ducking effect.

I also want to say that wondering if your ciat-lonbarde equipment is working correctly is a ciat-lonbarde rite of passage, so @mattlowery you’re on the right track.

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Yes, this is the behavior as I understand it.

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yes! that is what i am seeing, currently in front of my coco :partying_face:

this is the interaction that i wasn’t grasping!

I made some drums with the oscillators and Digitakt/modular:

The kick isn’t coco, but everything else is.

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hate to bump this old of a post, but i’m trying to make sense of the aux inputs on my pb2.

are you all able to get good results without any kind of amplification? i was just trying to send music through the inputs on my phone, the thru of deerhorn and avd sounded good but i couldn’t get any sound out of the gongues. likely something about how i patched it i guess… but still. feels like the phone audio has a lot of sound to compete with.

pb users here - do you find yourself having to keep the levels of other sounds in pb down when passing audio through? do you normally have to amplify signals to use them? are there easy ways to do this that don’t involve a mixer just for amplification?

i’m also half-wondering if there’s something funky with one of my gongues… i’ve only had this thing for a week though. the Q knob of one of them really likes to feed back after like… 7:00 on the bottom gongue. not sure if that’s “expected” or normal behavior, and i trust the craftsmanship… i’m just trying to understand!

I constantly feed my phone into all of the aux inputs on the PB2 without need for amplification. I’m usually going for something “lo-fi” though so if things are getting overdriven, I genuinely enjoy it :joy:

I should mention that when I run into any of the inputs, I rarely use the internal sound TOO. That could play a part!

As far as the gongue Q goes, I haven’t noticed that issue with mine. I do find that when running a signal in that there’s always a little resonance, even with 0 Q! Sorry I can’t help with that one. Have you tried with both Gonz & Trad settings? Maybe that’s a factor :thinking:

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How do you have the gongue switches set? It needs to be gonz or trad to get the sound through to the filters.

The filters do oscillate as you turn up the resonance (q if I recall), that’s normal.

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oh, weird… i assumed the middle switch position was the “audio thru” setting. i’ll give that a shot!

sorry but what do you mean by “[you] rarely use the internal sound too?” like you don’t use the deerhorn sound when running audio through for example? i thought the switches had to be in the middle for audio to go through. i’m gonna give it a try!

interesting that you don’t need amplification… it works when i have, for instance, the av dog volume at max any any other things around middle volume or lower. maybe that’s just how it goes!

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i’m in the process of building some of the rollz-5 circuits to supplement my plumbutter & sidrax, and i’m hoping i can get some guidance from the paper circuits wizards around here. i’m not totally new to DIY per se, but generally speaking my overall knowledge of electronics is a bit lacking, and searching out and choosing parts is still a bit of a headache for me

  • i guess this is probably situational, but how much does the type of a capacitor matter? i don’t have any poly caps around but plenty of ceramic and electrolytic at various values
  • how much do the rollz paper circuits differ from those on the plumbutter? i’m finding that both a three-roll and five-roll (10uf and 2.2uf on all hairies respectively) i’ve built trigger the gongs but pretty much nothing else on the plumbutter. scope readings seem to show them oscillating rather fast unlike what i see from the pb rollz
  • i’ve found some resources and suggestions on power regulators for the paper circuits, and am finding suggestions for LM7809 and L7809. LM7809 doesn’t seem to be available from mouser anymore, but they have several options for the latter, like L7809ABV, L7809CV, MC7809CTG–the datasheets didn’t really clear anything up for me but would any of these work fine for my purposes?
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@ellips_s
Someone put together a BOM a while back and shared it as a slide presentation.

As for the power regulator - This circuit works great!


I use an L7809 personally, as I had a bunch on hand.
^ this is from Pugix.
Also here is my stripboard layout of the mixer - (ignore the switches coming from the mixer, they are instead at the very edge of the paper before the pot for each channel - source in the middle, 1 leg to the mixer, 1 leg to a banana for isolated output :slight_smile: )
You can either use 3 dual gang pots, or 6 single gang pots.


Also the Output is not 2 jacks (unless you want it to be lol) it is a Stereo Jack - one goes to Tip, and one goes to Sleeve.

For my 2-roll LFO x8 I used the following - .22μF, .33μF, .47μF, .68μF, 1μF, 2.2μF, 3.3μF, 4.7μF
The lower caps I used a mix of green and red polys, and a couple ceramics. 1μF and above I used a mix of polarized and non-polarized Electrolytic Caps (if you used Elec. Caps - be sure to place the Negative in the Circled end of the Hairy Capacitor)
Small caps will produce fast, hyper techno pulses, while the higher value caps (especially polarized Electrolytics) tend to produce slower pulses - I honestly prefer values - 2.2μF, 3.3μF, 4.7μF, 6.8μF, and 10μF.


You can get a positive pulse output from each roll by adding a resistor as shown above.
av dog mods
A few known mods for USF, AVDogs, and Gongs.
There is more that can be done to all 3, I just need to stare at the roolz-gewei papers a bit more lol.

I suggest adding an LED driver to all of your Even Rollz :slight_smile:

To answer your question about the Caps - Ceramics will work fine - Peter definitely favors the poly’s.
You can get some of them cheaply at Tayda, and others like red poly’s tend to be a bit more pricey.

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i want to throw these 3 circuits (rollz 5, rollz 6, spikering) into a cigar box, add banana jacks to the rollz contact points and spikering nodes/inputs, add 1/4" jacks, and maybe some sort of power supply. i assume this is what you mean by “power regulator” up there ^ but im not sure how i would go about that. is there any easy solution to replace the use of 3 9volt batteries if i put these in a case?

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You could wire them all off of one battery.

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Just wire each of the battery contacts on the pcbs to one battery plug?

Yep. That’s it. Putting together a barrel jack and the voltage regulator is not too bad either.

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Thanks for sharing those boms. I hadn’t seen that doc before.

I just grabbed one of your 2 rolls boards on Reverb. Can’t wait to build it up!

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Has anyone put their Ciat Lonbarde synths in pelican cases? I’m considering those (usually they have a sale around Black Friday) or maybe some of the harbor freight knock offs. Wondering which sizes work best for plumbutter2 and coco2. Also open to other recommendations.

I bought an SKB case measuring 36"x14"x6" and a cheap electric bread knife to cut the foam with. Results pretty solid!

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