Fwiw those sockets look better than what I used. You can see the metal contact poking out the top and it looks like the whole socket is conductive, you could always try a four roll and if it’s too fiddly and loose unsolder it. You could also just solder in one pair of pins and use those, that way you know you’ll have some open if the desoldering gets messy. Don’t be afraid to get your hands a little dirty with this stuff, that’s part of the fun :slight_smile:

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An old Sidrazzi was sent to me for repair, and the first step was to get her to power back up.
Check!
Now to dismantle the entire thing (lol… this will be a nightmare) - need to get to the other side as the secondary Chaos Pot is completely snapped off ( :disappointed: )

Will work on a couple modifications as has been requested.

Just happy I got it back up and running!
(Like… 3 hours after it arrived lolol :grinning: )


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modulating my dixie w rolls

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Little bit of the SIDRAZZI through an MS-50G pedal.

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Hi, everybody. Hopefuly my question won’t be out of place in this thread.
I am considering buying a tocante bistab and it just occured to me that it doesn’t have volume control for internal speaker, am I right? If yes did somebody check how loud it is (ideally in decibels)? I ask because I am very sensitive to loud sounds and if it would be too loud on its own then it wouldn’t probably see a much of use in my hands.

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I owned a Bistab for a few months earlier this year and found the volume to be neither too loud or too quiet. I do not have a sensitivity to loud sounds, however.
The speaker is located on the bottom and it is very easy to muffle the sound by placing it on a soft surface or locating it over your thigh if playing on your lap.

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hi! i’ve been obsessed with the red steam section of the labrolz papers for awhile now but i don’t have a breadboard or the means to get one at the moment (lockdownnn)

i made this schematic, if anyone with more easy eda skills or some free time on their hands wants to give it a try or point out any glaring errors it’d be much appreciated! this is my second ever schematic, apologies for the messiness andi’m sure there are many inefficient spots in the drawing, sorryyyy better still if anyone wants to make an smd or through hole version i’d happily foot the bill for prototypes :stuck_out_tongue:

i used 4.7v zeners based on assumptions about reference voltage being used extensivley but i’m not sure if this is right - i haven’t used them ever before

i’m sur etheyre here but someone told me this is a random pulse generator but i’d still love to hear it

red steam.pdf (99.2 KB) red steam_2020-11-09_10-39-19.json (116.4 KB)

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I own a Bistab and used it in a theatre piece that I toured with my group for several years. Depending on the space we were performing in it could sound quite full ((but never straight up loud) but other times it was too quiet to feel really present in the space. This was largely dependent on room acoustics; for larger or drier spaces we would use a bit of amplification (and a touch of reverb). Also, the volume is dependent on how much of a charge the Bistab has. At lower charges it is quieter, but also unstable in terms of tuning (ha!) etc.

In order to bring it in softly, I would press the instrument against my body so that the speaker was slightly muffled and then bring it away from my body as I wanted to increase volume. I found that I could manage dynamics pretty well this way.

Since the Bistab uses square waves it will sound louder than the Thyris or Phashi so if you were really concerned you could go for one of those. I chose this Bistab because I was going to be singing with it (a version of the anti-fascist anthem Bella Ciao), so I needed something that could be perceived as loud enough to match my (unamplified) voice.

That was a long post but it’s not often I get to talk about the Bistab! I have a very intimate relationship with mine; I love its strangeness, its moodiness. I never new exactly what was going to happen when I picked it up; the moment in the performance needed to be super delicate and here I am trying to convince the electronic equivalent of a cornered raccoon to play a song with me.

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thanks for your and @Coitmusic input on this topic, it was very helpful! I love the concept of it being standalone instrument without any need for external gear so in that case it is very tempting, as then I would be able to grab it any time and play like my classical guitar. Hopefully I will manage to hear bistab in person and if the volume won’t be a problem then I guess we will get a long just fine :wink:

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Here is the CHARM I talked about converting a while ago.

Finally got around to getting the parts and building one to see if it works, and we’ll, it does. Lol.


I opted to use regular green polys instead of the 1nf’s that I ordered.

I do not own a Fyrall or a Srine, but from my understanding the Charm is in the “corner” sections of each of those units.

I figured I would just send some audible 2-Roll LFO’s into it and it really made some neat tones from a roll.

What else are these used for? Maybe a good addition to my Fourses build? (I have some room in the case lol)

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Looks awesome. I am curious what they sound like through the ultrasound filters or modulating the dog voice. Not sure I have it straight what exactly they do, are they primarily modulation/pulse? Thought I remembered something about “repatching” but that may have been another DDD related thing.

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To be completely honest - I am not sure yet
There is a section about them here “Parasites
Peter mentions they are like “twittering machines” waiting to be touched or cross patched but apparently generate their own wave forms.
Now, I hooked it up to the scope and I got a variety of waveforms from touching the nodes but they immediately disappeared and were not constant - seems like they would definitely benefit as touch nodes rather than being patched into - or a mix of both.

I might test it tomorrow after work with fourses to see how it reacts!

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Hey everyone, just wanted to do some quick self plugging!

I recorded an EP of soundscapey/droney/ambient for the Buchla podcast.

All recorded live to stereo, I used an Easel & Loopers with some field recordings to feed the Cocoquantus 2 & Plumbutter 2.

Every melodic sound source came from the Easel but I felt I could still share here as the CL stuff really “makes” these tracks.

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I started listening to this, it’s really nice – are you going to put this on bandcamp?

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I’m very much in the realm of pressing my face up against the glass of the CL window at this stage but would like to try the door handle. I’ve seen mention of PCBs made from the paper circuits and thought these might be my way in, but I don’t really understand enough about what I’d need to do/buy or where I would get it from.

I believe that these PCB diagrams originated/grew from here (literally in this thread) and it seems like a way forward as, although inexperienced in synth DIY, I’m not remotely solder-averse. How would I obtain them? Do I need to manufacture/print boards myself or could I simply solder onto some blank boards I already have?

I’m acutely aware of my general ignorance regarding this whole subject and can only profusely apologise!

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You can either print them - fold them, poke holes in them, and go from there on Paper - or - a few of us has gerbers available, as well as boards for sale. :slight_smile:
It kind of all depends where you want to start!!

Most tend to start with Lil Sidrassi, as that is a great project to dip your new paper cirq feet into :slight_smile:
There is a Master Legend that is available in this thread (just search for it) and that should get you started!!

If looking for just boards and do not want to go the paper route, check Reverb and Tindie for the boards youre looking for :slight_smile:

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I thought the charm was only added to the stuber circuit

I know it is at the very least in the stuber circuit white makes sense in the video you’ve posted

a mostly square wave signal getting changed would seem to be perfect in parasitic combination with the stubers many square oututs!

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Thanks, I’ll give that a try!

I’d rather use something more robust than paper, but, although I have seen a few PCBs for sale in the US, nobody seems to have them in the UK, alas (and I don’t enjoy the customs duties I always get stung with on transatlantic orders).

I’ll take that recommendation for the Lil Sidrassi gratefully! Thank you :slight_smile:

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oh get in contact with @mlogger - I think he has some over that way!

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Really? Fantastic news - thanks!