crucFX
1873
Some DOGVOICE for ya - It gets fun when I actually stop using the rollz and just let Dogvoice and the conrad papers do their thing 
6 Likes
ovumhum
1874
Long time listener, first time caller.
Hey there, Ciat Lonbardos… I’ve been hesitant to post here, as admitting how new I am to the work of Peter B in a room of highly active participants is a bit daunting. But, considering that in just a few months, I’ve converted and fabricated nearly every Paper Circuit into PCBs, I feel like I may have fallen just as far down the rabbit hole as anyone else. So… hello!
I recently finished a PCB conversion for Fourses Tarp, as I’ve been anxious to build one. I still have to double check my work for errors, but before I dive in, I figured I’d ask if anyone has any definitive information regarding the untraced 10K resistor in the upper left oscillator (highlighted in the second image). I can’t seem to figure out if it’s supposed to go to ground, or if it’s supposed to tap another node… the information I’ve gathered from within this forum are inconclusive (at least, in my limited understanding). Can anyone that has successfully built one of these provide me with some insight?
I appreciate anyone willing to share the knowledge.
6 Likes
I do believe that it does go to ground, this is how I wired mine, anyhow, based on advice from a MW thread.
1 Like
crucFX
1876
You can add an extra extensive squiggler like you have in that second pic.
See the Teal traces - and red 100k resistor.
Or - as others mentioned. you can wire it to ground

1 Like
figured i’d post a Stuber report in case anyone is looking for more general impressions like i was before taking the plunge two weeks ago.
i can see why it is so well loved among long-standing c-l users. it’s basically exactly what i wanted from a “peter blasser filterbank” in that it REALLY chews up audio in a seemingly limitless way and rewards lengthy periods of spelunking to find new vistas.
i listened to a short arp of a rhodes sample from op1 for about 2 hours the other night while patching and making adjustments. the lack of standardized colors for the bananas actually makes sense with this instrument imo and i already feel like i’ve made a mental map of which rows of bananas (seem) to do what. some seem best for affecting resonance, some for audio-rate, some are spitting out strange cv. the rungler with reset button is ingenious.
so yeah it’s probably the coolest filter i’ve ever used (certainly the most unique) and it sounds really great too, a bit juicier than other c-l stuff.
i’m really happy with it!
14 Likes
Hmm, cool, now i wanna try that xtra squiggler bit, - my fourses has an unused brasso already on the panel bc i counted incorrectly when drilling yay! It sounds and operates nicely with the 10k going to ground, but I’m wondering how much/what changes when doing the mod in yr pic. Seems too easy not to try it and would be cool to get all the pegs active. 
1 Like
ovumhum
1879
Thanks for the feedback, and super handy diagram! I think I might fab this board with both options. Choose Your Own Adventure… to node, or not to node? I may be off my rocker here, but a break out to either option via a jumper wire makes sense. Good call on the additional 100K resistor into the 4066. I’m not entirely confident I would have done it this way, despite three identical routing examples staring me in the face.
Also, thanks for the grounding confirmation @bunkerspreckles. I’m excited to hear that someone had a successful build using this info. Can’t wait to button one up for myself… thing sounds so intense.
1 Like
Episode 03 of The Deerhorn with the amazing Jungle Of Wires is now live 
12 Likes
Hey folks,
I recently acquired a plumbutter 2 in a trade. I’m really loving it so far, but struggling slightly to get both audio out of it and ground it so I can interface it with existing gear. Hoping to get a sense of whether or not this is: 1- just my unit; 2- I’m doing something wrong; 3- it’s normal for a pb.
My setup is:
- run audio out via the stereo out jack. I use a splitter that goes from stereo 1/8th inch to dual mono 1/4 inch. This plugs directly into my audio interface.
- run a banana out of ground to a chain of other grounded devices (two buchla boats; one format jumbler; one Serge PSU)
Issue(s) I’m encountering:
- when powering the unit via PSU, if I plug a cable into the ground input, it stops working. This means: no lights going on it; no audio coming out of the stereo out.
- when powering the unit via battery, if I plug a cable into the ground input, the outcome is slightly better but still not sufficient: while the unit appears to be working still inasmuch as I see lights flashing, etc, I get no audio out of it via the stereo out.
When I power the unit via battery and ground it, I can get audio out via the white bananas and run those through a jumbler to a euro mixer and run it from there to my audio interface (this has a very high noise floor though compared to the audio from the stereo out).
So I guess specifically my questions are:
- How do y’all get audio out of your pb2s, and do you interface with other gear?
- Has anyone encountered a similar issue before, or is it worth reaching out to Peter to see if it warrants a fix? (This is a Peter build, I believe.)
(Final note as well: my ideal setup, which is running audio out of the pb2 directly to the interface and grounding it with my other gear for CV control is exactly what I’d done with a coco, so part of why I expected it to “just work”.)
Thanks for any input y’all might have!
Jonny
1883
Is anything else patched to the pb to modulate it? Anything else patched out from pb to modulate other devices?
1 Like
Nothing yet patched either to or from the PB. PB just modulating itself loads.
Jonny
1885
It doesn’t sound normal, but maybe there’s an issue with your power adapter grounding. I would try to isolate to just the format jumbler + pb + interface. You can also try different power outlets.
1 Like
Rodrigo
1886
I’m having a bit of a hard time calibrating my Deerhorn following the instructions from the Hainbach video. My leftmost “horn” isn’t responding regardless of how far I adjust the fine-tuning or even the trimpot (the bottom one). It does produce sound when I plug the unit in, and if I touch the screws which are going to the antennas. What is curious is that touching the bottom horn/screw makes sound, but not touching the upper one.
I’ve tried adjusting both the top and bottom trimmers and it seems to have no impact, so I’m wondering if something is wrong with it.
Here’s a quick video showing what I mean:
(apologies for the loudest jacket in the world!)
crucFX
1887
Mandy’s few recent ciat live jams on youtube are so freaking incredible.
They’re in my weekly rotation lol. 
1 Like
laihalll
1888
does anyone happen to know the part number or specifications of the inner bolt of these type of banana jacks?
hmm no, they have similar ones on Tayda but the inner bolt is different… I have some for my recent Serge build if you want measurements or anything.
Edit: Actually they look more similar than I thought, I added a link if you wanted to check them out.
Also found this ali express page with reverse image search, but no specs…
laihalll
1890
oh it’s not the whole banana jack i’m after, just the metal socket screw inside… it’s driving me crazy because they must have a simple name but i cannot find it X_X dredging aliexpress at the moment
the easy thing to do would jjust be to buy banana jacks and ditch the sleeves but that seems wasteful/i’m on a mission
laihalll
1891
Agreed! Mandy is an incredible musician and I’m so glad she was willing to speak 
1 Like
I finally got around to doing a walkthrough-style video of the gerassic organ breadboard I’ve been working on. Just going through all the functions and then making weird sounds with it. If you wanna hear me ramble on it’s here:
And if you don’t want to hear the rambling and just wanna hear me messing around and getting some strange sounds, I get to that with less talking here
13 Likes