rmro
1894
One thing to bear in mind is that what is near the Deerhorn can affect it’s behaviour, I’ve experienced this on PB. I recall reading somewhere it’s how it reacts in it’s current environment.
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Rodrigo
1895
Yeah.
I’ve moved it around a bit in the space it’s in, which isn’t gigantic or anything, but I get no response at all. I’ll try powering it up on my desktop away from all other gear to see if that changes anything.
Also going to open up that side of it to see if anything is very obviously loose.
rmro
1896
Ah ok, no response at all is maybe a different issue. When my PB one has gone awol, I’ve always used the ‘orange roll out’ to check it’s working, plus touching the brass screws has always had a response.
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Rodrigo
1897
Ah good shout! I’ll check the other I/O too.
Checking it with a different power supply on my desk made no difference.
I don’t have a PB or Coco so I’m just offering some general troubleshooting thoughts. It sounds like something in your grounding scheme may not be right, or positive and negative are being swapped somehow? In a similar situation I’d start by checking each cable for continuity and then each bit of gear for correct polarity, especially the format converter.
Oh, and I’d also double check the polarity of my power supply. I’ve heard of some people accidentally using an AC or center negative power supply and having strange behavior.
2 Likes
ovumhum
1899
This is incredible. I recently finished a Gerassic Organ, but outside of replacing the “x” resistor with a pot, I haven’t experimented with further modifications. Truly… nice work.
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Thank you! Definitely has been a good project to learn about circuit design. My favorite simple mod definitely has to be the ‘video game mode’ by moving one of those electrolytic caps around. I posted a little diagram to how you’d make it on the actual paper circuit board earlier in this thread.
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crucFX
1902
Sorry to double post -
I added all three Solar Sounder Gerbers to my Drive.
Just finished Monk tonight 
BIRD
MONK
TRAIN
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Just wanted to say how much I love this recording!
It’s got me thinking about picking up a Dunst. However there are quite a few not very positive reviews in this thread, so wondering what folks might suggest as possible alternatives?
Thanks!
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Jonny
1904
I think it’s a pretty unique module like the rest of the Mobenthey set, so you’re probably better off just trying it.
That said, you could get similar sounds with 2 vca’s, lfo, a varied noise source, and a comparator. And some creative patching! 
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i had asked about this sort of thing before but had a new question.
i’m going to grab a format jumbler pretty soon, and i’m stuck between the standard low gain format boxes and getting a meng qi brass kit. does it really matter which i go with?
there’s only a $10 difference between the two - but it would be fun to build the meng qi. the low gain box has 10 jacks per format versus brass’ 9, but the brass has some CL specific functionality built in - it can block all of those negative pulse spikes.
i’ve got eurorack for now so the module seems like a fun bet, but the box seems like it might be more useful moving forward, should i ever get out of euro. any thoughts?
Those passive format jumblers are just jacks wired together. If you have a soldering iron, you can make one for around 40 bucks.
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yea…I just got a stepped drill bit set to hand drill some 125b enclosures for building some pedals, and it’s not bad at all (though the little aluminum shavings are kind of annoying, best to do in a garage or something).
I got one of the lowgain boxes, and it’s definitely solid. Knowing what I know now, would probably build one myself next time. So far as module vs. standalone box, I’m happy I went with the box because I also have been using it for these little breadboard to banana cables and it being standalone allows me to get them close enough to my breadboards…but that’s a pretty niche and probably irrelevant “pro”.
I’d be curious in practice what that would be useful for. I guess getting rid of offset would increase headroom of wherever you’re sending it to, same concept as ac-coupled mixers…but I don’t think it’s going to like sanitize the output of a rollz brown node for trigger use in euro. You could very simply wire one of these up in a diy box too…it’s just a coupling capacitor in the path between the banana and 3.5mm jacks (would be happy to explain the wiring with the SPDT if you need it).
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i’m a green (but enthusiastic!) DIYer - apologies for the very entry level question but what kind of wire would i use to connect the jacks?
i also guess i assumed there was some conversion other than jack types… if it’s this simple then yeah, why not make something not from a kit? so basically, i could get, say, 12 banana jacks and 12 3.5mm jacks, some type of wire to connect them - and just solder them together? it’s that straightforward?
this is embarrassing in a thread full of very skilled builders… but i want to learn!
oh, totally - that was my hope at first but help from earlier in this thread let me know it wouldn’t work. still, i guess it’s a “peace of mind” thing? not that i thoughtlessly patch. though i did connect my ultrasounds to av dogs’ audio outs by accident for a few seconds. whoops.
between your and jonsey’s advice, i’m definitely leaning towards just making my own, looking into figuring out the right parts right now. then i can figure out how to look into panels or enclosures… if you’ve got some advice for someone without too many tools or access to 3d printing, i’m all ears! i’d love to work with metal but i’m starting at zero.
I use bare bus wire, but you can use any wire. On the Meng Qi I think there are diodes or something to block negative voltages. On the low gain it’s just jacks and wires. Connect the tips of the 3.5mm jacks to the bananas and then wire all of the 3.5mm sleeves to a ground banana. The thing to remember is that bananas have one conductor and euro jacks have 2 (signal (tip) and ground (sleeve)). At least one ground banana is recommended so any instruments connected to the jumbler can share the same common ground (important).
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right - that was going to be my next question! i knew the grounding was important.
so to make sure i’ve got it - each 3.5mm tip goes to a banana, then all of the 3.5 grounds go together - and that then goes to a separate banana for grounding? should that circuit be a circle? i recognise the word “circuit” probably answers this for me but i’ve gotta ask the dumb questions…
In practice, you want to try to not make a ground loop. It this case it probably doesn’t matter, but I usually connect each 3.5mm ground to the ground banana instead of each 3.5mm to the 3.5mm next to it and then the banana. Make sense?
The ground lugs of the 3.5 mm jacks can be jumpered (connected in a chain) and then the last one can connect to the grounding banana jack. This wouldn’t be considered a ground loop. That’s a different phenomenon.
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