Mobenthey/Ciat-Lonbarde (synthmall) thread

[Jonny]

I think it’s a pretty unique module like the rest of the Mobenthey set, so you’re probably better off just trying it.

That said, you could get similar sounds with 2 vca’s, lfo, a varied noise source, and a comparator. And some creative patching!

[reallyok]

i had asked about this sort of thing before but had a new question.

i’m going to grab a format jumbler pretty soon, and i’m stuck between the standard low gain format boxes and getting a meng qi brass kit. does it really matter which i go with?

there’s only a $10 difference between the two - but it would be fun to build the meng qi. the low gain box has 10 jacks per format versus brass’ 9, but the brass has some CL specific functionality built in - it can block all of those negative pulse spikes.

i’ve got eurorack for now so the module seems like a fun bet, but the box seems like it might be more useful moving forward, should i ever get out of euro. any thoughts?

[corpusjonsey]

Those passive format jumblers are just jacks wired together. If you have a soldering iron, you can make one for around 40 bucks.

[jlmitch5]

@corpusjonsey

Those passive format jumblers are just jacks wired together. If you have a soldering iron, you can make one for around 40 bucks.

yea…I just got a stepped drill bit set to hand drill some 125b enclosures for building some pedals, and it’s not bad at all (though the little aluminum shavings are kind of annoying, best to do in a garage or something).

I got one of the lowgain boxes, and it’s definitely solid. Knowing what I know now, would probably build one myself next time. So far as module vs. standalone box, I’m happy I went with the box because I also have been using it for these little breadboard to banana cables and it being standalone allows me to get them close enough to my breadboards…but that’s a pretty niche and probably irrelevant “pro”.

@reallyok

but the brass has some CL specific functionality built in - it can block all of those negative pulse spikes.

I’d be curious in practice what that would be useful for. I guess getting rid of offset would increase headroom of wherever you’re sending it to, same concept as ac-coupled mixers…but I don’t think it’s going to like sanitize the output of a rollz brown node for trigger use in euro. You could very simply wire one of these up in a diy box too…it’s just a coupling capacitor in the path between the banana and 3.5mm jacks (would be happy to explain the wiring with the SPDT if you need it).

[reallyok]

i’m a green (but enthusiastic!) DIYer - apologies for the very entry level question but what kind of wire would i use to connect the jacks?

i also guess i assumed there was some conversion other than jack types… if it’s this simple then yeah, why not make something not from a kit? so basically, i could get, say, 12 banana jacks and 12 3.5mm jacks, some type of wire to connect them - and just solder them together? it’s that straightforward?

this is embarrassing in a thread full of very skilled builders… but i want to learn!

[reallyok]

@jlmitch5

…but I don’t think it’s going to like sanitize the output of a rollz brown node for trigger use in euro.

oh, totally - that was my hope at first but help from earlier in this thread let me know it wouldn’t work. still, i guess it’s a “peace of mind” thing? not that i thoughtlessly patch. though i did connect my ultrasounds to av dogs’ audio outs by accident for a few seconds. whoops.

between your and jonsey’s advice, i’m definitely leaning towards just making my own, looking into figuring out the right parts right now. then i can figure out how to look into panels or enclosures… if you’ve got some advice for someone without too many tools or access to 3d printing, i’m all ears! i’d love to work with metal but i’m starting at zero.

[corpusjonsey]

I use bare bus wire, but you can use any wire. On the Meng Qi I think there are diodes or something to block negative voltages. On the low gain it’s just jacks and wires. Connect the tips of the 3.5mm jacks to the bananas and then wire all of the 3.5mm sleeves to a ground banana. The thing to remember is that bananas have one conductor and euro jacks have 2 (signal (tip) and ground (sleeve)). At least one ground banana is recommended so any instruments connected to the jumbler can share the same common ground (important).

[reallyok]

right - that was going to be my next question! i knew the grounding was important.

so to make sure i’ve got it - each 3.5mm tip goes to a banana, then all of the 3.5 grounds go together - and that then goes to a separate banana for grounding? should that circuit be a circle? i recognise the word “circuit” probably answers this for me but i’ve gotta ask the dumb questions…

[corpusjonsey]

In practice, you want to try to not make a ground loop. It this case it probably doesn’t matter, but I usually connect each 3.5mm ground to the ground banana instead of each 3.5mm to the 3.5mm next to it and then the banana. Make sense?

[cold_fashioned]

The ground lugs of the 3.5 mm jacks can be jumpered (connected in a chain) and then the last one can connect to the grounding banana jack. This wouldn’t be considered a ground loop. That’s a different phenomenon.

[crucFX]

I asked Pugix if he’d be willing to take a crack at the QUANTUSSY Petals I had printed.
I was so excited when they arrived, I had to mount them to their future home to get a visual lol.

Grabbed @barrford ‘s Tetrazzi conversion.
NOBSRINE and Trains at Night as well!

I finished a Mourning Dove earlier today and slapped it into a chinese AM radio kit case (that I could never get working)

ciat-lonbarde Mourning Dove - BIRD - Solar Sounder - BIRD, MONK, TRAIN.

[amycatass]

I have started putting together some paper circuits for the Rollz-5! Don’t have any of the actual components yet, but I will have some pcbs of the pieces I don’t have as well as some other CL pcbs soon. Wish me luck!

[amycatass]

i think i want to add particle noise source, a shift register similar to the man with the red steam, and a mixer, plus some pots and more voltage control. basically i want to make a budget plumbutter that has a little different character…
how do you suggest going about that?

thanks,
AMY

[wheelersounds]

If you want a 50k linear pot as a variable CV source, you connect one outside leg to V+, the other outside leg to GND, and the center leg is your variable voltage which can be soldered to a banana jack.
I snagged this from a google search – this is how you would build a basic mixer, with the “___ output” pins on each potentiometer as banana jacks that you can plug your signals into. This schematic is a little wrong because it says “audio linear” when those are two different things. So if it’s an audio mixer, use a log pot (500kA) or for CV use linear (500kB).
/
Here’s the original Labrolz paper on Synthmall if you didn’t already have it, though these circuits would need to be either redrawn on paper with appropriate component footprints, or someone (you?) could PCB them. I also don’t know enough about PB to say whether PB2 has any significant changes or improvements, so others will likely chime in. I’ve only built a few paper circuits and I’m not super familiar with what others here have made into commercially available PCBs but I’m seeing some incredible stuff, especially recently, so someone may have already done a lot of this work…
One thing to remember, and it comes up a lot here, is that all your circuits need to share common ground. That way, they’re all referencing the same idea of what 0 volts is – if you don’t do that, it can cause a lot of instability.

[amycatass]

Thank you so much
I appreciate the thoughtful and helpful posts here, thanks for replying so quickly!

I will have to study these schematics very closely, they are a bit nonsensical to me at a glance but I bet I can figure it out. Thank you,

AMY

EDIT:
ok yea just looking at the rollz schematics on rollz-gewei manual I’m very lost. If anyone can help me understand them in relation to the original paper circuit, and/or how i can adapt the paper circuit to be more similar to the plumbutter’s rollz, I would greatly appreciate it! Thanks<<
AMY

[barrford]

@crucFX please note that you are the first person to have a PCB made of my tetrassi adaptation, let alone build it!
You are a true pioneer!

[wednesdayayay]

love that solar sounder!

also super cool to see the quantussy petals wow

[crucFX]

This is based on pugix’s stereo mixer for rollz-5.
It works great and is what I used for my rollz-5 build!

(ignore the switches between the board and the 100k’s, those are crossed out lol, they need to be on the other side of the pot.
Here’s a better pic

Here is a schem of a 3-Roll drawn by Pugix

Please note - comparing this schematic to that of the Labrolz Papers, you will have no luck as the Labrolz version is a CV based version with the Arp-Serge Assemblage.

I am awful at drawing schems, but I have made fully functional CV Roolz based on the Labrolz papers.
Here is a schematic to compare against Pugix’s original Rollz-5 3-Roll and the Roolz-Gewei’s 3-Roll

[Notice: the Even Rollz (4) has an LED Driver]
Hopefully this helps ya!

[amycatass]

Omg thank you! This is exactly what I needed help with, thank you!

-AMY

[amycatass]

So what I’m wanting to do is something as close to this as possible with the rollz-gewei schematics. Basically two adjustable rollzer strips, four 2-rollz, the voice section of plumbutter, the snare from man with the red steam, and a 7 channel mixer, stereo. Are there pcbs available to diy something like this or will I have to make these from scratch?

Edit: I assume the circuits for Ultrasound, AVDog and Gongue all changed a lot between Rollz-Gewei and Plumbutter 2?
I’m willing to sacrifice some of the added cv control (though it pains me) if the plumbutters circuits are under wraps.

Edit 2: upon another reading of the rollz-gewei papers, it seems to me that the schematics in them are literally just the schematics for plumbutter. Am I mistaken?