Thank you! Yes the dogvoice was much too big but the other circuits were perfect size.

AMY

@amycatass
I added the properly sized PDF to my drive for ya!

2 Likes

What is it that you are wondering about?

This is Peter’s explanation of them:
“The most common cell is called “Swoop”, which is so named because it creates a simple up-down gesture, with pulses to mark its middle and endpoints. It is triggered by pulses (at their * node) and also create pulses (at their + node). Each puts out a triangle after triggering at the * node, and each receives a control voltage at the + node. So you see, each of the two nodes is both input and output, dealing with pulse as well as DC voltages. The condensing of nodes is important to make (re)patching the multiplicity into an intuitive affair, and it emphasizes a strong Yin-Yang nature. To compliment the Swoop, there is an Antiswoop, which is a simple inversion of its gesture. Swoops and Antiswoops can be chained together in any combination, looped, woven, and triggered by Preamps or Antipreamps.”

Rando and Anti-Rando are essentially a Swoop with a couple small changes -
Behavior being, the Rando likes to randomly generate sloped pulses, much like the Swoop, but will sometimes throw an extra undulation or ripple in there - :slight_smile:

Hopefully that helps!!

For your color-coding - excellent! - I went with purple and green for and green and grey for randos and swoops - but that was entirely personal pref.
Technically one of the nodes in swoop is the actual out - but because they can be chained - they are still androgynous, so you can very well utilize browns :slight_smile:

2 Likes

Thank you so much! This helps :slight_smile:

1 Like

If any of you are looking for an angled stand for the plumbutter, I picked up a 3D waves arturia keystep stand and it fits pretty closely. Also works well for the coco.

5 Likes

Almost Finished with the NOBSRINE -

9 Likes

Sounds good!
I found it helpful to put the largest knobs I had (2” diam.) on the pots for more precise tuning. There are some sweet spots where the slightest twitch gives a cool sound.
I didn’t include a power switch in mine but at the end of Peter’s video, he’s getting some percussive stuff going by turning it on and off. Jiggling the battery contact does the same thing.

1 Like

I planned to make some knobs outta these :smiley:

Maybe I’ll add a momentary for power cutting

4 Likes

PBs circuits love to be starved haha

2 Likes

Yea! I’ve been having a ball playing my DDDM2 with “dead” 9v batteries, both alkaline and dry cell. So far I’ve gone down to 4.5v and it’s still tickin over.:grin:

1 Like


laid out my conrad modules on cardboard so i have an idea of good layout
feedback?

thanks,
AMY

3 Likes

WUDNOBS.

lol I’ll add the starve switch and Mount the board tomorrow, I’m tired.

*** Update - Added a momentary switch for voltage starve/cut and it just made this infinitely more fun!!! :smiley:
No vid - I don’t want to over post lol. I kinda already do… lmao.
I’ll edit this post tomorrow - since its late.

Vid as promised

12 Likes

hello crucfx! was wondering if you could provide a more indepth explanation of what your modified AVDog circuit does, and how to modify it! the red circles in particular confuse me. what are they for? thanks>.

AMY

1 Like

av dog mods
The red circles are showing the spots where you tap into with an extra resistor in 2 cases - 1 being the 100k going off to the left which is auxillary in. -
The addition 10k resistor near the 220k resistor is for the OSC Out.
If you compare this image to the original AVDogs Paper Circuit, you will notice these 2 resistors are not there. I added them in Inkscape to make it easier to identify the modifications.

The 100k with the circle in front of it - instead of running it into that hole - instead - run the end of the resistor to an SPDT ON/OFF Switch (Middle Pin) and then one of the other pins back down to where the 100k was supposed to go into -
This is a switch for to turn the Oscillator On and Off.

I ended up using a Dual Gang 1M Pot and replaced both the X Resistors with this.
I added a Pot to the Y Resistor - If I remember right, this determined the delay between undulations.
Or it may have been the X resistors, I can’t remember.
Modding those 3 will change length, Pitch, and delay.

Hopefully this was what you were looking for :slight_smile:

2 Likes

yes!! thank you! i think i understand it now <3

thank u
AMY

did you modify the other modules in ur rollz-5 build? i want to have this kind of control over the gongues haha

1 Like


For Gongs - I did not put it into the diagram but you can use a pot on almost every X, Y, or Z resistor.
With USF - there are mods for it, I am just unsure of what spots. (it wouldnt be the ZZ and Z resistors - as they simply determine the volume of the output.

3 Likes

I will try to experiment with these once i have the components. gonna try putting together a BOM for both the modded rollz-5 and my custom dogslit.
thank you for ur help!

AMY

edit: how would i modify the gongue circuit for controllable resonance?

1 Like

OK, i am wanting to be able to control my dogvoice’s pitch with a cv input, but the only cv inputs on the paper circuit are for volume and filter cutoff… what modification could i make to change the pitch without turning the pot?

thanks,
AMY

1 Like

I don’t know this circuit very well but it looks like the P and F pots are all CV in that they have V+ on one end and 0v on the other. I’d think you could connect a cv in to the middle lug (what would be the wiper of the pot.)

2 Likes

^ 20 chars. of agreement.

2 Likes