We tested for a few minutes at the office, seemed to work ok, but the palette case is the only one we’re tried for extended periods of time (4-5 hours at a time)

I’m planning a month long road trip and would like to bring a few of my instruments on the road with me to jam on while I’m layin in bed (back of my truck). Does anybody have any recommendations on power banks or some sort of DIY battery cache I can rig up for power?
I plan on powering a Digitakt, Digitone, keystep, MB33, MS-1 and a small mixer.

I’ve powered 19” of modular, mixer, and PCM recorder off my Jackery when I’ve wanted to “get wild” with my Houseplant sets.

You will want to add up the mA of all the things you want to plug in and then make sure your battery has more than that (ideally a lot more but hopefully someone who knows more about electrical engineering will pipe in). Sometimes this is printed near the plug in thingie, sometimes you need the manual to find out.

i recommend the “mobile modular” thread for some good insights…

john at pulplogic has been experimenting with some cool diy solar stuff:

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something like this thing would cover a lot of uses (and a lot of devices/instruments)

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This might seem really dumb but my band took a road trip/tour this past June through the south (Kentucky, Tennessee, Georgia, South Carolina, Florida) and we had rented a 15 passenger Ford Transit van. Our guitar/banjo player had this: https://www.blackanddecker.com/products/power-tools/automotive/roadside-assistance/500-watt-acdc-portable-power-station-jumpstarter-compressor/pprh5b

He kept it to essentially power his car since the electric in his old police-cruiser-auction ride was super unreliable. We ended up having that thing half charged save our asses more than once. Plus it had an air compressor that would actually inflate our super high PSI tires better than any gas station air pump out there. My buddy used it to power Bluetooth speakers/charge his phone every day to and from work (25 minute car ride) and charged it once a week.

Something I’d never think about buying but whoa did it come in handy.

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The easiest way to find what your looking for is to search for a solar battery/generator with a pure sine inverter. The Goal Zero Yeti has a good reputation. I’ve camped with a Suaoki solar generator, a 12U modular, Beatstep Pro, & a separate battery powered speaker and not even bothered to pull out the solar panel I bought to keep battery topped off.

It’s a good idea to think in terms of how many hours you want to run your rig. Let’s say everything you listed pulls 50 watts. (It’s probably less.) If you buy a 150 watt hour battery battery, you should get about 3 hours of run time.

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This thread was inspiring me. I just bought one of these batteries, charged it last night. I need to put a case together and head out!

Charged the battery last night and put some modules in the case and it all seems to be working! I played around for an hour with headphones and used ~10% of the battery.

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I order Polyend Anywhere yesterday, can’t wait to test it out. Anyone using it? And what power bank you use along with? Tell me!

Paging @fourhexagons

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Good question. I tested a few and found that most with ‘smart functions’ didn’t work well. That is, the type that dynamically adjust the output voltage seem to confuse Anywhere and will work intermittently. Eventually I landed on the slim Aukey’s that are linked in the description of the above video.

Here’s the Kit link:

https://kit.co/lightbath/anywhere-in-nature-renfrew

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was anyone ever successful in fitting ansible in 4ms pod60?

Depends what you will settle for as “successful”. I’ve mounted mine with plastic spacers around the screws under the panel to lift the circuit off the back of the pod60. Inspired by this setup:

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Thanks for the tip.
I guess that is a way to do it, but am not sure if I can “handle” it… :joy:
I think it would drive me crazy.

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how many mm is it off by?

i can think of some hacks to lo-pro an ansible

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I think 3-5mm would do.
Though the power header connection and the i2c would still be tight.

Any advice on the lo-pro would be awesome… I dreamed up a little box with teletype, er-301and ansible (to have grid and arc run it), nut neglected to check the depths on all the modules. Everything fits nicely, except ansible.

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A ribbon cable with a low profile connector without strain relief, like the ones from Modular Addict, would save a few mm. I can measure when I get home.

https://modularaddict.com/parts/cables/eurorack-power-cables-1613

EDIT: Sorry, I misremembered. The 10-pin end of the ribbon cable that came with my Ansible looks the same as the Modular Addict one; it’s the 16-pin end that has the strain relief connector. Fwiw, I measured the depth from the back of the panel as 39.2mm.

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@tehn Guide us!
:grin:
Lo-pro for the masses!

i think the solution is a pretty substantial modification.

option 1: reduce the mezzanine void space

  • flip the power regulator (three pins, through hole) to the other side of the board. this means both removing the pins from the board, and from the regulator, so that the pinout stays the same
  • replace the top and bottom female/male headers with super-low-profile headers (that’s a lot of careful desoldering) — i haven’t located a part number, but the ones used for the TT screen (and norns shield) should work

option 2: reduce the power jack (and i2c) protrusion

  • remove the shrouded power connector, replace with an un-shrouded ON THE OTHER SIDE
  • flip the i2c header to the other side

(this is pretty weird, the power cable would plug inside the mezzanine void)


of course, i haven’t tried either option, but conceivably both would work fine. what’s the target mm distance for the pod?

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