monome walk

Analogue Haven?

Thanks! Didn’t remember them.

Sorry, that might have been me. I was afraid of missing it due to my hesitation too and then found a way to overcome the hesitation by purchasing a proper 3-way pedal for my piano action and needing something to recycle the simple pedal it came with…:slight_smile:

Though I mostly use it as a button on the table by now. Also might need a second pedal for the full potential. Anyway the hesitation was not vindicated.

I’ve got a Walk question. I’m just getting the hang of using it in combination with my beloved lofi Soundmachines UL1uloop. I need to rerun some of my tests, but what I’ve found is that whether I use the M(omentary) or (T)oggle outputs to trigger, say, the UL1uloop’s Rec(ord) function, it takes several steps after each successful trigger to re-trigger it. I wanna run a few more tests, but figured I’d ask at this stage if anyone else has tried the combination. It’s not a big deal. I can click a few times and reset it. It would just be smoother if doing so weren’t necessary. Right now I’m using the UL1 to cull a bit of tone from my electric guitar, which is going into the UL1 via a few bands of spectrum from an ADDAC601 Filterbank, the original sound having entered the system via a Doepfer A-119 Ext In. Thanks.

Are there any plans to make more of this module?

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Both of the pedals that came with my walk died in the last month and I was about to order some replacement ones but then I realized that I probably had the parts to build a dual foot switch into a tiny Hammond enclosure. Tada!
It was a satisfying build for multiple reasons…
Make use of my stash of random radio shack artifacts… saved me from buying more stuff… and most satisfyingly fed my regular pre-tour desires to miniaturize everything.


I’ve done this (a couple of times) but always used normal “stomp” switches… curious how those hold up, if you are using your feet to activate them and not your hands…

I’ve used them on other DIY projects before and they hold up fine. the only one that ever failed on me was because TSA repacked my pedal case in a way I can only describe as moronic (borderline evil).

I need to get some more clickless stomp switches at some point. I hate when the click can be heard over a microphone.

So I’m going through this years after the actual post but this little idea just blew my mind. I’m totally going to build one.

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is there any hope of this module becoming open source? i’m sure monome won’t build more, but i wouldn’t mind making one myself…


it uses an insanely difficult smd chip to solder, requires an ISP programmer with a handmade header, and is all around not a great DIY candidate.

my suggestion is to use a teensy to replicate the functionality which is a a great first project and could be done with probably 10 lines of code.


i am so glad i grabbed one when i did, i use it all the time to trigger stuff with my foot, it’s just fun all the amazing and interesting stuff aside.

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I just got a Walk and stumbled across an odd mystery when I tried to place it into the case (Clank).
It doesn’t fit. The ribbon cable is placed too far up on the pcb so the lower jack bumps into the rail.

It works when I remove the ribbon cable.

Do I really need to file this down to make it fit?

Has anyone else experienced this?


oh my god i didn’t notice it was the ribbon connector I thought it was 1/4" jacks >.< Yes I have the same problem (also a Clank, but doesn’t fit properly in my DIYed case either with tiptop rails), i just put it in diagonally and then pushed it vertical, if that makes sense… it works fine for me but if it’s the ribbon connector that is the problem then this may be inadvisable…

all three of the legacy monome modules i have have issues fitting properly both horizontally (earthsea and meadowphysics take up 7hp with threaded strips) or vertically like with walk :sweat_smile: they got it sorted with teletype but I think there must have been some specific or slightly unusual case used for measuring these earlier modules…

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Thanks! I had a module from Bubblesound a few years back that didn’t fit, only upside down. The ”best” advise I got back then was to file down the pcb, but I didn’t dare to.
I think I’ll break the module if I push it in like you do.
This time I’ll try to go with my idea and pull off a little ribbon cable makeover.

Edit from mr lifehack:


So these modules will never resurface??

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Doens’t sound like it by what tehn said a few messages back, not exactly the same but very similar for very little money is the Doepfer A-177-2.