#59

no, all knob settings are saved.

1 Like
#60

Oh that is significantly better than I had hoped for. I thought they were fully analog controls.

Does this mean that you can zoom those knobs? And the gain/feedback knob?? That would explain why my A channel is so much quieter than my B.

#61

I emailed John a couple of days ago and he said the exact same thing. He actually referred saving the 1v/oct settings as a quite useful feature of preset recall.

Good thing I bought an MIA, frees up so much shit around the module. Best bang for the buck mixer/utility I have.

#62

yes, zoom works for all knobs! the gain knob for channel a has actually massive gain, channel a is always way louder here because of that, so be careful with that knob plus zoom. and don’t forget, it is bipolar!

1 Like
#63

mia is such a useful module for such patches, i have three of them :slight_smile:

#64

Question, I just received my d0 and the adapter and they both come in these anti-static bags I’ve never receive a module on, is there are special care I need to have with the modules after taking them out?

Hardware Physical Modelling
#65

From what I’ve read, Mungo modules may be more susceptible to static damage than others. You’ll want to make sure you only touch the faceplate of the module, and not the components on the PCB unless you’re sure you’re grounded.

Technically though, all modules ought to be handled the same way. Chances of static damage aren’t very high most of the time, but if it happens then you’re looking at repair or replacement costs. It always makes me wince when I see people gripping the backside of a module in their for sale posts.

3 Likes
#66

Thank you, really didn’t wanna mess them up before even starting. Will try to post some experiments during the week, as I try and figure this thing out.

2 Likes
#67

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IMG_0891
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I’m lost again, in what direction(color) do I connect the zoom module in? Also, I don’t know where(direction) to connect the zoom/midi module to the power board in the case.

Any help would be appreciated.

1 Like
#68

hm, this looks very unfamiliar to me, the back of the module also looks different.
what exactly is this thing on your second photo?

this is how my d0 looks:

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so i guess you have one of the new d0’s! so i would write to mungo for advice, it really seems he changed a few things. does the module look different on the frontside too?

#69

Yeah, definitely looks like he has one of the new d0’s. It looks like he changed how the midi/zoom expansion connects as well.

Here’s how it looks on my g0

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#70

Just as a closure to the whole Mungo story, I heard back from the seller out of the blue, and my friend finally received my module today

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In the meantime, being despondent with the situation I bought a CG Products Delay 1022 :joy:

I’ll compare the two and report back when I have them in my hands.

How’s the panel quality on that new d0 module Foxhood?

4 Likes
#71

@Foxhood i copied this picture from the muffwiggler thread:

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that’s how to connect the zoom, black is ground, red zoom, white 3.3v.
on the new d0 you have to remove the jumper and connect the zoom this way.
the midi connection seems to go directly to the busboard.

1 Like
#72

I contacted John and he answered me perfectly.
For anyone that doesn’t have shrouded power connectors, the bottom of my posted image goes to the -12v even though the midi only runs on 5v.
The zoom connects just like you posted, even though he didn’t mention having to remove a jumper on the zoom -> d0 connection, I believe that’s only necessary if you want to chain more modules together.

The panel is perfect no scratches and the non brushed aluminum looks amazing imo.

Thanks for all the help everyone, looking forward to the experiences.

1 Like
#73

you need to remove that jumper 100%, it’s there for non-zoom use only!

1 Like
#74

I’m interested to hear your thoughts on the two! If you can post any side-by-side comparisons of the two being switched between in the same patch that would be awesome. (also those orange knobs look excellent on the d0 faceplate!)

#75

ufff! good thing I had to do some work so still haven’t turned it on…
Thanks for the save @kilchhofer

#76

Welp, can’t get a sound out of this thing… Sound passes thru, If I move the input bias on A around I can see it inverting the signal on my ES8 input, but no delay whatsoever is happening.
I tried @kilchhofer starting feedback diagram to no avail. Anyone had this problem?

Update: I tried moving the delay offset around and it created a latency on the arrival of my signal to the ES-8 but still no actual delay. I’m still hoping this is me being a noob and not that something broke the module while on the delivery.

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#77

Adding latency to your sound source is the delay, you just need to mix your dry signal in with the delayed signal from the d0 to turn that delayed signal into an “echo”.

Mult your sound source and send one copy straight to your mixer, and the other to your d0. Then just send the d0’s output to the mixer as well. The d0 is more reliant on the rest of your system than other delays because of this (unless you use the A into B internal feedback patch), but it will get you visualizing your signal paths in a way that will really help you out in figuring out other creative patching methods.

Also, I think maybe all these d0 specific posts should be moved to the Mungo Modules thread since they aren’t specifically related to physical modeling, and could be helpful to other people that will likely land there if they’re seeking information on Mungo stuff.

3 Likes
#78

you have no feedback, please have a look again at my picture:
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=3043786#3043786
this is with internal feedback, it’s easy and fast to setup a delay this way, look at how the signal flows, it goes into input B, from output B then back into input A (with sum button pushed) and the out from channel A. cheers, i think further discussions should be moved to mungo thread as @smbols already said, maybe someone could move these last d0 posts over there?