#137

Soner is very good to deal with. They gave changed their production system, now i send them the files i have. No more scratching my head with inkspace…now that I was getting a workflow!

1 Like
#138

I got the laser cut panels today from Razorlab.

Norns with no screen cut needed. Engraved the numbers of keys and encoders.

IMG_6558
IMG_65583024×4032 2.82 MB

16n (faders missing)

IMG_6560
IMG_65603024×4032 2.07 MB

And some blanks for my rack to feel complete :slight_smile:

IMG_6559-1
IMG_6559-13024×4032 3.41 MB

Finish is much better than expected.

22 Likes
#139

Just to chip in here, I spoke to a couple of guys from RazorLab today, and both were really helpful answering my noob questions re. laser cutting display windows.

2 Likes
#140

Ha! I was chatting with Robbie today too. They must be wondering what’s going on!

1 Like
#141

image
Scored a junction box with a clear lid for a fiver then went to work on it with a dremel…

15 Likes
#142

Tried something different with my Norns shield. Still trying to figure out if I like it.

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9668596E-8F75-46C8-8971-1314A028B5E54032×3024 2.88 MB

I also learned that you need to be careful with fusion 360. If you print a 2d design, it might not print at the correct scale. Didn’t turn out too bad considering I printed the hole layout at 96% or so scale.

20 Likes
#143

This is a lovely alternate form factor!! Love the use of switches too, has a real lab equipment vibe to it.

#144

Tour ready version, built like a tank.
I love it!

#145

Oh wow! How are you getting along with those switches? Interesting change in the tactile interface.

#146

I’m really new to norns, so I’m not sure if they will work out for a lot of scripts, but I like it so far. They are just really loud.

3 Likes
#147

seems like momentary toggles would do the trick (versus regular on/off ones)

#148

Thanks for this! Had a friend print out a copy of this on a maker bot and it works great (potato picture). Hoping to try and reprint it on a higher quality printer so there’s less bow-ing, but it’s honestly pretty much perfect.

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IMG_6451480×640 37.5 KB

2 Likes
#149

I am happy to see that my very first 3D print project is being used.

I think it makes sense to add a few additional air holes. The little Raspberry Pi gets a little sweaty with CPU-intensive applications. Can be completed with Tinkercad in 5 minutes.

#150

With quarantine bizz and not being the owner of the printer I might take a drill to it if I notice any heat-related performance issues.

Somewhat relatedly – has anyone tried to use something like plastidip on 3D printed materials? I’m thinking maybe like sanding it down, putting on a thick layer of primer, and then plastidipping it might work?

My goal with this is to get a sort of rubberized or smooth finish for it.

1 Like
#151

I wonder if this would work with 3mm acrylic cases, too. I love that slightly rubbery surface texture.

#152

I did a little research, and it looks like the best option for 3d printed mats is a combo of an epoxy coating and then a plastidip coat, since that material ends up being pretty thin and getting into the grooves of the printing material. I think you’d have more success with an acrylic case since you wouldn’t need to sand anything down or mess with any filler.

#153

It looks like it should work OK on acrylic, then. You can get it in spray form. I guess you disassemble the case and do just the outside of each panel separated.

You’d probably need to mask off the tabs where the panels join together.

Thinking out loud.

#154

Totally, either that or sand off any extra bits.

#155

Can anyone with a Shield built from the full kit (from monome) give me a total height (in mm) - including the acrylic plates?

1 Like
#156

40mm for height without knobs, I used the hardware specified in the shield github page.