#187

Regarding the usb panel connections, my thought was to just get some of these usb panel connectors that adafruit makes, seems like a good simple solution.

The patch bay is an interesting idea as well! Initially my thought was to just break the shield outputs into individual jacks and call it good, but a patchbay might allow for some more versatility.

Midi to cv output was another thing I considered, but hadn’t thought much about as I’ve got a Crow for that. Messing around with other power supplies (like eurorack or 500 series) inside the case might complicate things beyond what I could pull off, but it’s pretty cool. I really like how @klingklangmatze did this in his design, that’s a good place to draw from.

1 Like
#188

A switch is a switch in this case.

You’re gonna need a big honkin 5v PSU for the 2 pi’s (2.5A for each)

1 Like
#189

When two Norns share a power distribution socket, I get a slight ground loop noise. I often minimize this by using powerbanks instead of power adapters.

1 Like
#190

Good to know that the switches are interchangeable. I’ll have to settle on a good way of mounting them, I’m thinking maybe these Amoeba single switch pcbs would be a way to do that. I’ll have to investigate a bit more.

Around power, my main concern was whether I would have problems with interference or noise between the two RPIs if they’re housed in the same box, having never done that before. I probably wouldn’t have them share the same adaptor or anything like that. The setup I’d like most, actually, would be to feed the entire unit with a single IEC adaptor, and have switches to supply power individually to the original 5v adaptors that the pi normally use. I guess that would require some kind of distribution board with step-down voltage conversion, so maybe that’s a bit complicated considering I could just get a couple panel-mount usb connectors and use the official PSUs that I know are up to the task.

#191

One more tweaked and 3d printed version of


(and a crappy lasercut acrylic window)
PXL_20200826_140740579
PXL_20200826_1407405794032×3024 2.23 MB
9 Likes
#192

Third (!) attempt at dremel cutting a Hammond 1590 enclosure. Need to stop wasting brain cycles on the enclosure. This is good enough.

image
image3024×4032 3.84 MB

40 Likes
#193

Hi everyone - I’m new to the norns community as I’ve only had my shield a couple of weeks but couldn’t bare to have the insides exposed so I made this case.

BASIC_V1.0 copy
BASIC_V1.0 copy1995×817 569 KB

It’s designed to fit snugly against the the acrylic top plate that comes with the shield kit. I’m gonna push it further to create a full enclosure but waiting on some acrylic to be cut. I call it the basic model. Just running a high quality one off on the printer after a few nights of prototyping.
What do you guys and gals think?

13 Likes
#194

Looks real nice. Think you probably don’t need the stock pi 1/8 jack hole and hdmi though? All you need on that side is access for the usb power connection and norns i/o.

#195

ooh thanks for the tip! I’ll take another pass

#196

FWIW - The built in 1/8in audio jack sticks out past the pcb about 3mm (same as the shield jacks from the shield pcb). HDMI about 1.5mm.

thus if you want the frame of the case to be flush against the pcb edge, then you need holes there.

2 Likes
#197

You’re right - I’ve just made a version with a recess inside the case wall will see if i can get away with it.

1 Like
#198

Will see if this works - its a 3mm wall that makes the case surround so I’m eating half way into that.
It’s a little annoying in order to make this work because I want it to run flush up to the top clear panel.

Here’s the last test print I made so you can see it for real.

IMG_2558
IMG_25582256×1743 2.29 MB

And the adjustment I just made - need to do another test

revised_jacks
revised_jacks1885×1885 319 KB

I think eventually I’ll make a fully contained version with a top half so I can creep into the pub edge an make nice flush access holes for the io and power. But I reckon you’ll still have to have openings for the other ports regardless. Like you said.

5 Likes
#199

Have to say I have a wooden case for my Norns and it lacks vent holes besides the needed ones you have in your design. Problem for me is , it get’s overly warm especially in summer weather. I have been meaning to take the case apart and drill some air vent holes. It does seem to slow down in menu’s and very occassionally crash when it gets warm. I’m no expert but I’m wondering if anyone else has experienced similar problems with the ‘fully enclosed’ cases ?
If so, you may want to include some in yours ?
I haven’t noticed any problems in cooler times of the year.

#200

image
image4032×3024 1.07 MB
image
image1536×2048 338 KB
image
image1536×2048 415 KB

This works really well despite the additional holes for hdmi etc. Screws to the base nicely.

22 Likes
#201

@JHC Please, share the files later on! I’m building my second shield and we have a winner :slight_smile:

#202

Here it is wired up and running! cableing|458x500

17 Likes
#203

looks great, can’t wait to get home and print one.

#205

I have a v1 shields and would LOVE LOVE LOVE a bottom portion with a slight angle to it. anyone selling or have schematics to get one printed?

#206

Is that too support the lower PCB board. If so I have managed that with this case. I matched the grommets used for the mini jack side and added a two on the other side so the lower board now sits off the base and is level.

1 Like
#207

final2
final21909×2053 1.04 MB

image
image3024×4032 1.57 MB

Okay folks, the second design worked really well too.
The STL Files are now available here:

b4s1c v1.0

b4s1c v2.0

11 Likes