Appreciate the Lee Perry tribute (and incredible build quality)
@Claire That black arc is absolutely gorgeous!!
I just got a Norns Shield built by someone else (as I suck at everything DIY), and it comes without proper display protection (the display is recessed, and at the moment protected by film, which I don’t really like).
Since I don’t want to mess with the case, I was thinking of adding a thin layer of glass glued on top of the unit (just in the middle, over the display, not over the buttons and encoders).
Good or bad idea? Thank you for your feedback.
I think it’s OK to use as it is? Mine is like that, and the film is supposed to come off. I wouldn’t put it in a backpack without a protective case (mine’s a big old pencil case, I think), but you’ll want that anyway because of the knobs.
Doesn’t dust and humidity eventually become a problem with the unprotected display?
Is anyone using the walnut case from SynthToys (link)?
And if so, how are you finding it? It looks great and I’m tempted, but it’s a lot of money.
I am. Thoughts:
- it feels way more solid overall than the stock 3d-printed case. Having the cover is a game-changer
- I had to re-superglue in one of the magnets
- The finish is middling. Think “competent high school shop project” rather than “premium furniture”.
- The dark faceplate is very attractive but is probably not sunlight-readable.
Thank you, that’s really helpful.
I can echo most of this. I haven’t had any magnet problems but I did have a dud screen screw in my pack, which adds to the “high school shop project” feel.
The huge plus for me is that I feel so much more confident tossing this in a bag and travelling with it than I do with the stock 3D printed case. I don’t regret spending the cash (especially as it doesn’t look like I’ll be able to buy a non-Shield Norns any time soon…)
Thank you, both, I appreciate the insights.
I’m hearing one or two minor niggles, but no dealbreakers, and overall a positive experience.
Looks like there’s some banding from the milling process on a lot of the examples I’ve seen. The perfectly horizontal lines spoil the beauty of the grain somewhat, so if I were the owner, I’d take out the internals then sand the exterior of the box and lid with 240 grit to knock down those marks. You could then go to 400 grit if you wanted a super smooth finish. Once that’s been done, you can apply some linseed/teak/danish oil to bring out the grain and make it look professional. The internals don’t really need doing as you won’t see them in use.
I was just checking a Shield based on the Pusharman case, and I noticed a weird issue.
If kept flat on the desk, the buttons work fine, but if put on a stand that raises it a bit (let’s say 20°) the leftmost button tends to get stuck when depressed, or just come up slow.
I’m bad at DIY but I was wonderin if there’s something easy I can try…
Try loosening some of the screws, and tightening them again. I suspect the buttons simply rub against the edges of the holes when gravity pulls them.
Here are some images of my 2nd-gen prototype: First two shots are its current state after filling, priming, and then deciding I want to reconfigure the vents and how to fasten the boards. The other shots are after filling and wet-sanding, before priming.
It’s essentially a mermaid – o.g. case on top, Fisher’s angled case on the bottom – and then I added vents (gills?). I just cooked it up in TinkerCAD and farmed the printing out in CraftCloud. The lid/face, buttons, and knobs came with the shield when I bought it on Reverb. I plan on designing a different lid and face. I’m going for a Hainbach, test equipment aesthetic. For the main color I found some modeling paint that’s pretty close to Brüel & Kjær pale green.
Where I can find the file for the upper plate? Thanks
you can find it in the GitHub repository under cad - be careful with the measures. It should be: 92,71 mm x 87,63 mm
Thanks! I understand that it fits great with the @JHC case, isn’t it?
I love the relic-ed sides and base!
I have one for my Norns. It’s brilliant - lovely build and having the lid is really great. My only small quip is my knobs are slightly too big so the lid doesn’t snap shut. I expect I could replace the knobs and it would be prefect.
Woah that Arc is beautiful! Could you share how you made the housing?
And what about the thickness? Thanks