I have one for my Norns. It’s brilliant - lovely build and having the lid is really great. My only small quip is my knobs are slightly too big so the lid doesn’t snap shut. I expect I could replace the knobs and it would be prefect.
Woah that Arc is beautiful! Could you share how you made the housing?
And what about the thickness? Thanks
yes, it fits. its 3mm thick.
I’ll try that, thanks. By the way, I was wondering if this type of fully closed metal case can be a risk in the medium-long term for the unit, heat-wise. Is it worth putting a hole maybe at the bottom of the unit? I have no idea how complicated that is, but in case I can ask people who work with aluminum.
For me it’s the screws holding on the screen that stop the lid closing perfectly, but it’s still close enough that I don’t worry about the lid coming off unless I pull it.
Ah maybe that’s happening for mine too. Either way it’s not a deal breaker by any means
Great! Is “acrylic” the name of the material for the top plate? Or it can be called as a concrete type of plastic?
Could you please explain me where did you get these knobs? Thanks
They’re “thin encoder” chroma caps from DJ Techtools.
These are the rectangular button caps.
Thanks! The Thin encoder knobs are already installed in my shield
The case is already ordered and also the acrylic plate.
Here’s my remix of Claire’s gorgeous, sandblasted case. (Including board she assembled with care, even using special solder for the cycling loads on the audio jacks. You rock Claire!) Used my favorite knobs, same as on Panorama MIDI controllers, and matte black plexi in honor of current gen matte black norns. Press fit clear plexi screen cover.
This has a 2001: A Space Odyssey look that I love. Your care is clearly visible in the end product Great job!
that two tone look is hella sharp
Would either of you (@Claire/@skein) be willing to share the files?
I’ve got one of those fancy walnut cases on order from Etsy Dude but it’s a long time coming - and I do like the raked face of the one above, very much. If I was a betting person, I’d wager a shiny penny I could find a local-to-me 3D printing service to turn one around pretty quickly…
Printables is what I used, with some mods to the dxf top panel. Claire printed my case, but you could use that printables one and maybe find a friend or makerspace with a bead blaster. This fits pi3 you’d need to mod a bit for pi4.
Thank you very much.
I’ll see if I can get some quotes on Monday (I don’t know anyone with any 3D printing capacity… I don’t even know what a bead blaster is so it looks like I have a bit of a learning curve in store!)
It’s a type of small enclosed sandblaster that makes a really cool finish to 3D prints. It’s completely optional. There are other ways to smooth the surface, but it’s fine to use it right out of the printer.
You can hand-sand them instead of bead blast. SLA has a kind of semi translucence that makes them glow under normal light and the RPI activity lights glow through. I played with Acetone misters for a shiny look and while it was good, it revealed tiny imperfections in the surface so bead blast and then acetone mist for a stormtrooper shiny white is also possible.
A light hand is needed. If you do go this route thicken the enclosure walls to allow for bead-blasting erosion and acetone melt, too thin (especially on the top walls and filleting around the port holes) and it collapses.
Depending on the formulation SLA can be very tough but it needs a full UV to cure to polycarbonate levels of toughness.
The top one - big Music For Airports vibes with that map!