#27

In my experience, Teac and Akai make good solid machines. The main thing really is that any machine needs maintenance and upkeep. There are lot of good cheap machines out there that are non-functioning and only need a belt change to get back in action.
I would avoid buying reel to reel equipment on eBay or the like. Shipping can be very expensive and you really want to be able to try them out in person to make sure they will work for your needs.

4 Likes
#28

Sage advice. In what kind of places have you found them in the past? Is there a tape machine emporium in Portland?

1 Like
#29

I recently bought a Teac A-6300 reel to reel and I’m trying to record some loops with it. The machine functions perfectly fine when I’m using normal reels but once I put a tape loop on there the reels start spinning at crazy fast speeds. Way faster than usual. It’s really loud and distracting and I’m also worried it’s harming the machine. Why would a tape loop cause a machine to function this way? Here’s a quick video in case that helps (The “Low” speed was engaged during this video):

#30

it’s normal.
the tape is transported by the capstan, the reels motors provide tape tension.

#31

Interesting. I guess the trick is to not even use the reels at all? I’ve noticed in a few videos by @marcus_fischer and others that they have the tape just feeding through the capstan and wrapped around other objects and not spooled through the reels at all.

#32

Actually that has nothing to do with it. I just tried it without the reels attached and the reel holders still spin like mad. Just loaded regular tape back in and it plays at normal speed. How can I achieve the same kind of tape tension I have with regular reels to the tape loops? I’ve tried pulling the tape as tight as possible but it doesn’t change anything.

#33

again, it is normal.
when you load a tape the motors can’t spin like mad bcs the tape prevents it.
just don’t use the reels.

#34

Thanks! I appreciate the help… I actually did stop using the reels but the reel holders still spin extremely fast. This is also normal? Is there a way to apply the same kind of tension with a loop?

#35

i think “don’t use the reels” actually means “disengage the reel motors”, as many tape machines have this option (on the A77 a large “REEL MOTORS OFF” button does this). I can’t seem to find such an option in the A6300 manual.

#36

I have an Otari MX5050-Bii2 1/4" half track that is in excellent condition (it was used in a commercial studio for many years). However, the pinch roller isn’t engaging at all – I tried gently helping along by hand but it doesn’t budge.

I just ordered a metric allen wrench set to open the head cover. After that I’ll take a look to see if I can figure out why it’s frozen. Hopefully it’s just a lubrication issue and not a bad solenoid, etc. Has anyone else experienced something like this?

#37

For everyone’s inspiration and further discussions, here’s my recent post on Instagram. Somehow everything sounds good when it’s half speed:

3 Likes
#38

I just bought a TEAC a3340s. Very happy with the feel and sound of it, but am having some issues with the tape.

I have cleaned up the tape heads and tape transport parts, but I’m still seeing residue (both powder and thin slivers of brownish red material). Tried several of the old tapes that came with the machine (including PEM 468, LPR35 ++) and all give some residue to varying degrees.

Looking online I found many conflicting forum and blog posts about this (and which tapes have known problems), so I thought I’d ask in a friendly place: Are any of you running old tape machines and getting no residue? Will new tape most likely fix this? Or is this something you live with?

I currently have to have the machine right next to my Eurorack gear, and I’m worried about the dust and particles falling all over the place.

Thanks for any insight! :slight_smile:

#39

Don’t use old tape. You’ll just end up constantly cleaning the machine and the recordings will be degraded. ATR Magnetics is a company that is making tape in all formats, plus take up reels,NAB hubs, demagnetizers, splicing blocks, and the like. It’s not expensive… buy some, you’ll be happy.

https://www.atrtape.com/

8 Likes
#40

Thanks! Was hoping it was just the old tape. I ordered some new tape from Thomann, so that will hopefully help.

#41

seeking some advice on ye ol bypassing the erase head technique

IMG_9906 2
IMG_9906 24032×3024 2.56 MB

I’ve got overdubs working with this setup, but I have to reallllly overdrive the input to get little ghosties to appear

the results are cool, don’t get me wrong (reminds of some of the ian william craig stuff), but I feel like I’ve witnessed some cleaner overdubs from others & i’m curious what makes the difference. nicer heads ? tape age ?

my machine is a random thrift store find (not too much info online) and I’m using a loop from the tape that came with it. functioning otherwise seems pretty good. kinda has a scraggly old man quality (w/ matching smell)

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IMG_93594032×3024 2.63 MB

it also has this knob on the top, which is highly tantalizing yet has no perceivable effect from what I can tell :thinking:

#42

you could put some cardboard or adhesive* tape on the erase head. looking at your photo i would say the tape is coming in at a too narrow angle and does not pass correctly in front of the rec.head.

  • be warned of sticky residuals from the adhesive tape on the erase head. on the other hand if the device is sacrifiable you could cut or desolder its wires.
#43

Install a potentiometer between the voltage and erase head and make sure it’s grounded.

3 Likes
#44

ooooo YES - variable erase level ?

2 Likes
#45

Before I spend too much time searching around… Does anyone have a recommendation for a tape splicing kit? And dual banana to mono jack cables (for mono Nagra reel-to-reel)?

#46

Trew audio can sell the cables and adaptors you want, including the DIN ports. I’ve had them service my Nagra collection as well and consider them great at it.

1 Like