did those cheeks bolt onto hammond boats?

Yep - just slightly chunky wood screws.

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Why do the saw and triangle outs have white jacks rather than black?

I dont understand what functionality Peak and Trough give you…I had a similar question on the DUSG XL. It must be helpful though :man_shrugging:

Mannequins Cold Mac is inspired by Serge and describes Peak and Trough, maybe this will help?

You don’t necessarily have to use it with the PCO.

Also see this:

http://www.serge.synth.net/modules/r3_pt/index.html

In R*S colours the black jacks are bipolar and the white jacks are unipolar.

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never really totally wrapped my head around Cold Mac either :slight_smile:

but, definitely worth a revisit. Thanks for the link :metal:

Since the Sine is bipolar and the others are unipolar, feeding all 3 into the peak or trough should result in some interesting waveforms. The sine will be cycling above and below for each cycle whereas the others will be above 0. You could end up with a sine shape for part of your waveform and saw/triangle for the rest. Hard to explain I guess but might make more sense with an oscilloscope.

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since there are quite a few newcomers to Serge synthesizers here I recently watched this workshop and thought it provides a nice little intro to some of the fundamental function blocks:


there’s also this talk by Darrell Johansen, former GM at Serge in the '70s and at the time designed some prototypes for connecting it to digital computer systems, about which he lectured at Mills in the 80s.

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that first one is excellent. will check out the second. As mentioned above, I can’t recommend Doug Lynners vids enough. I watched them a bunch before getting any serge stuff and applied many of those concepts to my eurorack modules.

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Is there any chance someone knows the layout of the panels he’s using? It’s great to actually hear what some of this stuff does. I’m assuming the bottom left is an NTO and the filter is VCFQ…

It looks like the same two panels in this video:

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I have a very basic question because I’m a dummy and need things spelled out for me :slight_smile:

I’m about to start with a 4u Serge system, and would still like to interface with some of my Euro modules (i.e. ansible). I’ve read much about the grounding issue with bananas, and how they dont have a 0V ground. There plenty of posts about how you need to “ground” the serge, but I don’t functionally understand what that means…

so, for instance, if I have a 4u single panel serge boat, and I want to patch 1v/oct to an oscillator in my Eurorack, what needs to be the ground? I plan on using one of the Lowgain converter boxes. So, does that mean that the Serge boat black ground jack needs to plug into the lowgain converter box black ground jack? does anything need to be done from the eurorack case?

Of I’m connecting 2 different 4u boats with the same power supply I assume I dont need to do anything with grounding, but If its 2 boats with 2 different PSUs do I have to ground them (and would that mean just connecting black jack to black jack)?

Sorry if this is obvious but I have little background in electronics and don’t want to mess one of these expensive toys up.

Thanks in advance

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Yes.

No, just plug your euro cables into the lowgain box, the sleeve/ground is tied to the black ground jack.

With a single PSU, you probably don’t need to connect the ground jacks, but it wouldn’t hurt. When using two different PSU’s, you probably do want to connect the ground jacks, but I’m not sure. Again, it doesn’t hurt.

Finally, I’m super jealous, because you have serge panels and I don’t. Enjoy!

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Thanks for the answers. Hopefully I’ll be able to squeeze some halfway decent sounds out of them :slight_smile:

I just received a used set of (8) 4x4’s in two boats this morning and unfortunately I’m having an issue: the Saw output jack of the NTO seems like it’s come loose. The first time I plugged in a cable, I got silence and the second it worked until the boat wobbled a bit, so I’m fairly confident that jack just needs to be re-soldered (right?). However, I lack access to/skills for an iron, so I can’t take care of it immediately. So, for the time being, can I continue to use that boat/NTO or is there the potential to break things further by using it?

Sounds like that’s the issue. The banana jack itself should not wobble. They’re usually soldered to a wire like this which could snap if the jack is loose:

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Thanks Johnny- sorry if I was unclear, but the boat itself wobbled, not the jack. I did unscrew the panel and had a look- it (the blue jack) doesn’t seem quite as clean as your picture, but really not that bad?

Might not be the jack, but the connectors of the 2 pcbs. Sorry, but that soldering looks a little sloppy – you shouldn’t have blobs that big when solder flows well. (I know you didn’t solder it)