#146

If you can order everything from one source (e.g. mouser) you’ll save a lot of bother. Euro power header via mouser either here or here.

The SIL header you referenced is fine, although you could buy a 40 pin strip and break off what you need instead of 3 x 8 position ones. You’ll also need a header/socket; I think this should work. [the “precision” ones they refer to in the BOM are like this, I’ve used some in the past but can’t find the mouser part. I think I bought a bunch off eBay or aliexpress).

All of these mechanical things (euro power header, sil strip etc) you can order from Tayda (E.g. power header, sil header, sil socket; trimmer) which might be cheaper.

The only thing I’m not sure if they have is the switch. I know I’ve ordered a bunch from there before, but I can’t remember if it’s the correct sizing or not. TBH it’s extremely frustrating to order a BOM for pcbs & panel and find you’ve one part ordered wrong/forgot to order. Sometimes better to just order from one place instead of trying to shave a few bucks.

It shouldn’t be too hard a build, although random source boards need a bit of extra heat, so make sure your soldering iron is good. Flux will help a lot for these mechanical stuff like switches, jacks, connectors, power header, especially if you are using unleaded solder.

4 Likes
#147

The Res EQ BOM was quite long, so I was relieved that thonk got the kits again. I almost assembled it on my own, pieced together from different threads. I found this on MW (it doesn’t have everything though):

https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=dca4c4a741

Some of the parts near the bottom may be applicable to your build or others in the future.

Thankfully, most of the Random Source kits are mostly some pots, jacks, trim pots, and a few things. Once you figure out those, you’re in good shape. Tayda is great, btw, if they have your parts. Mouser / digikey / Thonk for the rest.

Another thing that I would mention is that when you put together the board ‘sandwich’, you solder the female connectors on the 1st board, put the male pins in, and then it is easy to solder the second board to those pins. Might be obvious to some people, but it took me a moment to realize this on the workbench.

I use a Weller iron and it’s pretty hot, no troubles there with the random source boards. I’ve been using rosin-core solder…but with a soldering fume extractor (don’t breathe that stuff in!)

5 Likes
#148

rad rad rad, thank you @Jonny + @mutedial – wicked helpful!

here’s the mouser project I put together for the R*S Wave Multiplier BOM. all that’s missing are the Thonkiconn jacks and B50K 9mm pots, which can be ordered alongside the pcb + panel. plus, picked up some neat-o Davies 1900H clone knobs for system cohesion.

woo! excited to build in 2 business days.

4 Likes
#149

Quick dumb question for those who have built the R*S DSG XL:
The instructions are written as if there is only one power connector but there are three across the two boards. Is the correct way of doing this to connect power to the larger connector on the main board and then chain the panel board from the smaller power connector?
Power > Main > Main > Panel ?

1 Like
#150

They are all just different options for power connection depending on how you are doing your power distribution. You only need to connect one of them to the power supply.

1 Like
#151

great, thank you! :+1:

1 Like
#152

just uploaded two serge (R**S) only tracks (very minimal)

4 Likes
#153

Today’s fun experience: I handed the patch cords to five 11~13 year olds and walked them through their first patch on a Serge. Simple stuff:

   DTG (self trigger) ---> PVCO --(x3)--> MIX ---> VQF ---> OUT
                            DTG (self trigger) ----/

Endless fun with knob twiddling, and while looking at an Oscilliscope of the output.

End of class came and I had to physically shoo them out!

10 Likes
#154

For any of you who were interested in the 73-75.com Serge homebuilt, the board/panel kit is available again. Decided to pick one up since it’s a somewhat affordable option and I’ve been reading about it since last spring. This will be the most ambitious project DIY project I’ve done, so I’m going to take it slow. For the most part it looks straightforward if you tackle and test 1 module at a time.

There’s a mouser cart linked in the BOM, although some parts are not in-stock or missing. Those of you who DIY a lot – how do you pick a comparable part when capacitors seem similar but may have slightly different specs? Also, has anybody else here built one of these?

6 Likes
#155

Just read through the build instructions, seem a bit spartan to me, so probably out of my depth.

Please keep us posted with your progress, super curious about this build/synth.

1 Like
#156

I’ve been reading through threads on MW and FB, where there’s a group you can join. Looking at pictures of what other people have done with their builds is helping me better understand technical challenges and inaccuracies.

Most of the parts can be ordered from mouser except for knobs (better value on tayda), spring reverb (grounding config is slightly different than usual), and 2 types of IC’s.

These parts aren’t specified, but can be also obtained at mouser:

  • Hammond 1444-1773 boats
  • Meanwell power supply and 2.1 barrel jack
  • Pomona stackable banana cables

This will definitely be a bit more work than a Random Source build, but I should end up with 2 panels of early Serge for under a grand. Hoping I can complete it before springtime.

5 Likes
#157

For caps I guess it depends which specs are different :). In my experience with Serge circuits the most important things for caps are that they are the right type, right capacitance, and the size will fit the pcb holes. Other things like voltage rating aren’t as important to match exactly.

Edit to add that you can also look at other suppliers to see if they have the exact part. I use Mouser and Digikey.

3 Likes
#158

Hi, i just released a 100% Serge album for anyone interested :slight_smile:

6 Likes
#159

I scored a used Human Compator TKB for a nice price and am keen to put it through its paces. Along with the ResEQ, it has this reputation as a classic Serge Modular design that I’ve yet to use. I’m really looking forward to 16 steps of gate sequencing.

1 Like
#160

@thetaflux has compiled an unofficial RandomSource Serge 3U manual which looks useful for anyone curious about Serge designs and/or those who have recently entered the world of Serge via Eurorack:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ar0iHk-LKylUdf9NMSS91ZtRwCGAQesF/view?fbclid=IwAR3cOFCS-rUkwmEk8wK4lL3oTkB6RglM_-f6IYoL6onRKcXpwqDfPUoq6IQ

12 Likes
#161

Currently working my way backwards through Jim O’Rourke’s Steamroom releases on Bandcamp, and now I’m curious if anyone here has any insight into what’s going on in his Serge rig. I’m guessing it’s a few panels worth of STS Serge stuff, but I’ve been unable to find many clear images of exactly what he’s using.

3 Likes
#162

I’ve been down this path too - not sure where I found this image, but it looks like has a bunch of paperface and STS panels:

4293_orourke_1
4293_orourke_1.jpg1024×765 129 KB

9 Likes
#163

Lots of crazy old and custom (from back when STS would do custom layout panels) stuff in there. He has a rare Pitch and Envelope Follower panel and an Ian Fritz graphic waveform vco panel. Plus god knows what else… what are the yellow (old paperface?) and black panels?

Scope the background of this vid:

Also my personal fav:

7 Likes
#164

There is apparently also a black panel Serge at Cal Arts and the panels were created using something called Scotchcal.

https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=121842

Quoting CJ Milller from the above thread:

Yes indeed. I have done a lot of research into Serge panel graphics. Panels of this era were printed on a special adhesive aluminum film called Scotchcal. (I think there is still something sold called Scotchcal, but it is not comparable - their product names are confusing) Basically, it is a thin sheet of aluminum with a photoresist sheet. You apply the graphics to the photoresist and peel it apart. So if you get black, usually you’d keep the half with black text, and apply it to the aluminum. The aluminum with the graphics then gets adhered to the thicker drilled panel, and sealed over with a clear film.

What happened with black Serges is that they used the other half of the Scotchcal, the one which was solid black but with the letters, lines, and swooshes removed. So once this was applied to the panel you get black with the metal shining through for your graphics. They just did this on a lark, because they had the extra layers of Scotchcal. In theory, there could be a black counterpart for every silver Serge which used this process. But the black films tended to be discarded.

2 Likes
#166

It’s also a safe bet that the Res EQ is a key O’rourke module. There’s a thread on mw somewhere where he says he tried to order a full panel of only Res EQs and that’s when Rex stopped doing custom builds - ha.

10 Likes