#51

http://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alpha-Taiwan/RA2045F-20R-15LC-B50K-C/?qs=%2Fha2pyFadugyeaqSo53ldk1Ymgn%2F7D177P134LBmF2XCYUwQOSMYUA%3D%3D

have no idea but would these suffice?

#52

Looking great! – Regarding ponoko, how have you found the accuracy? In my experience things were off by at least 0.5mm and not in a predictable way, sort of a wonky random shift of 0.5mm in any direction. For my purpose it was enough to make the parts unusable, but they were very intricate and small.

It looks like you can sand out the difference if it gets in the way though. Love that bamboo!!!

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#53

I’ll know about the fitment with Ponoko when I align it with the boards (didn’t have them when I started oiling the wood - needs to dry a bit more). Will report back.

I did some panels with them a while back using their chemical etching process - took forever, needed lots of cleanup and I don’t like the look of the etching. Won’t be doing that again.

Lasercutting was fast. Holes were a little small for the standoff screws, but I enlarged them a bit with the drill and should be good (left them a little tight on purpose). Bamboo was a little fragile on the edges and, being a grass, is prone to throwing off little threads when you work with it. The material is very-thin as well. The acrid, burnt wood smell needed several days to gas off - but that is an issue inherent with lasercutting in general.

This most likely won’t be the last panel for the thing, but it does look really beautiful soaking up the oil. I’ve some crowd-funded impulse purchases coming in the mail over the next few months that may have me experimenting with more materials.

b

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#54

highly highly recommend pololu for laser. we do tons of prototyping with them.

https://www.pololu.com/

they also make the only good avr8 programmer: https://www.pololu.com/product/1300

2 Likes
#55

the ones i’m using cost $3/ea.

looks like mouser is low on stock, but more are scheduled to come in tomorrow. (btw their reference picture is wrong!)
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ALPS/RS6011SP6003/?qs=3cOf6TWd2rbyy41GF81woQ%3D%3D

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#56

Cool, thanks for the info! – you have quite some cool projects going on. :smiley:

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#57

This is far to promising to let go!
Even if it’s midi just go the simplest midi/converter route…

Would anyone mind if I posted this to pusherman? With numbers come discounts:)

If not I’d be keen to pony up with anyone on here - I’m imagining this with the arc and 128 and teletype and I’m freakin out

2 Likes
#58

Cool project. The end result looks really neat!

I especially like how it showcases how easy it is to get something working using platforms like Teensy and Arduino. It really takes away the technical difficulties of for instance USB to allow people to be creative.

You may be able to cut cost by not using a PCB and manually connecting the faders instead.
Similar to this box: http://www.mpc-forums.com/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=140209
To accommodate the cables, the enclosure would need to be a bit higher though. And it wouldn’t be as clean of course.

Coincidentally, I made a very similar controller but with some other design choices.
You can check it here (images) and here (source).
Not sure if it’s okay to post it here? Do I better post this in separate thread?

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#59

Does anyone have an extra board for this laying around?

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#60

Wow, these are gorgeous!

The caps in the original post look like they fit better than the ones from Mammoth. Where are they from?

#61

I’d be interested for sure if 2 others wanna do an OSHpark run

#62

Those were scavenged from some spare toggle switches I had. If I recall those are easier to find in red, black and white.

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#63

Ps I’m really curious to know how many of these have been built

#64

I’d be in for one!

Anyone want to be the 3rd?

#65

so tempting but I know I wont have time to build it myself

somebody help these guys out!

#66

Has this version been tried yet?

Way cool.

Another idea: 16 sliding pot controlled attenuverters feeding a summing mixer.

Anyway, I’d be game for going in on a group buy of any version.

I also see that maybe some spare/extra boards were previously ordered, wonder if those are spoken for by now?

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#67

Great!

Yeah I was wondering that too… that’s why I revived this thread.

#68

It has so not been tested.

I had a quick look and didn’t like old me’s routing, so have tidied that up and also added a label as to what each standard is.

Untested because, personally, I don’t need one, and it’s a slightly expensive board to get made owing to size. Switch and jack are where they are because I still don’t have pay-for Eagle.

I’ve stuck it on Github for now - https://github.com/infovore/16n-faderbank-minijack - but am happy to remove if @tehn/@shellfritsch are unhappy. All that’s on Github is the EAGLE files. Similarly, I’m happy to put the other things - code, CAD - there if appropriate. Although that would imply that my hack really needs testing…

2 Likes
#69

Still need to test my i2c hack; was too focused on the Teletype expanders to get around to it. I know that the unit works as a USB MIDI device - I use it regularly. Just not sure if my i2c hack functions. I’ll post when I’ve figured that part out. :wink:

I don’t have any spare boards. I only got two back from OSH - the third was damaged in production. (They were kind enough to credit me for it. Nice folks!!)

The one thing that I did learn is that Tung Oil is a HORRIBLE finish for this kind of thing. It still stinks after all this time of airing out and is also still slightly oily. Sigh. I will be recutting the body when I get my hands on a laser cutter.

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#70

I love the look of this.

I have pretty much no DIY experience (Landscape all flesh only) but have been dreaming about maybe making a simpler alternative version of this. Essentially turning this into a 16 channel passive attenuator with faders - with the 32 jacks in the convenient space next to them.

To turn all / some of them into CV sources, these could then be fed with a multed CV offset from the modular. Now you have a fader bank that requires no external power and should be pretty simple to DIY. Given that it wouldn’t need the PCB or teensy it should also be pretty cheap.

The first problem I thought of is that if you passive mult an offset then the more destinations it goes to, the weaker it becomes - and as you increase one fader, the others will reduce their output a little. Now if you send the offset through a buffered multiple, I believe this problem should be resolved, or at least really reduced. I tested this with my 4 channel passive mult and I get only a tiny bit of voltage drop when using a buff mult.

Would love to hear your thoughts!

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