Shipping to Europe (Germany) is crazy fast too. For example: ordered on Monday recieved on Wednesday… and the shipping is free for ordering over 50€…

But regarding to shipment by airplane and environment I try to order from a place located nearer to my home

I like RS, if only because their free-next-day-delivery is really reliable. Mouser is free delivery about £20, otherwise a bit steep; Farnell likewise, although Farnell are based in-country if you’d like slightly more environmentally friendly supply.

Not sure if this has been posted but EEV blog has great soldering videos (and the host is really encouraging!):

Tools overview:


(although I’d say you can get away with just a chisel tip)

Through hole:

Surface mount:

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If you have a disturbed or cold solder joint, can you reflow some more solder into it or should you do the dreaded desoldering routine?

You can just apply the soldering iron to it again (and maybe some more solder as needed). I only desolder if absolutely necessary (or remove excess solder if bits are bridged, etc).

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Not a bad idea to put a dot of new solder on there to help it flow as the original flux was probably burned off. As @mutedial says, no need to desolder

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If you have some flux, hit it with that, then re-heat and you should get a good joint!

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I want to diy some stereo minijack to twin XLR cables. Looking for a ‘good’ step-by-step guide, I’ve watched a few YT videos but I’d prefer a web page. If anyone is aware of a good site.
Thanks

i had to do this in the past and the easiest way i found was to solder 30 cm bits of balanced cables on each plug, then use the plastic box that comes with 135 film cartridges to host and hide all the wire junctions. The idea was to avoid the weak point of having 6 wires crammed into a minijack plug.
Just join cold point (3) of each XLR with ground (1) (can be done inside the XLR plug with a leftover resistor leg) and wire the hot point (2) of each XLR respectively towards Tip and Ring of the TRS jack.
Like this diagram.

Hello !

I am currently on a year long backpacking tour around Europe and want to build a norns pi yet I lack a soldering iron. All my current worldly possession fit into a 30L backpack and I travel via bike and budget airline so I don’t know if there are soldering irons ini such a small form factor but would love any recommendations. Going to be staying out in Croatia for 3 months starting January so ill have the space to get a bigger more normal one if need be and then just sell it.

~ All general, under 100euro soldering iron recommendations welcome ~

Thank You

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i use a ~40 € Ersa Multitip C15 which is good enough for SMD and cables and as simple as an iron can be (but not particularly tiny). But if i was travelling i’d maybe just look for a fablab or hackerspace ?

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Do a search for “TS100 soldering iron” (~$60-70 USD on amazon)

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seconded. highly recommend the miniware alternative firmware(yes, custom firmware for your soldering iron. what a world we live in)

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Any thoughts on how these stack up to something like a Hakko 888D? That has been my main for years, but it doesn’t travel well. I’ve been reading nothing but good things about the ts100, really curious about it since I commute a lot with work.


I was wondering where all that solder was going! Most of my shield project has been learning how to get this stuff off! Good times.

Desoldering tips? I’ve been having trouble getting the excess out of spots where the solder pours through the holes, like in between plastic and pcb—any tips on getting the stuff out? Braid, sucker, time travel, etc. any input is so appreciated, I know people have their own methods of doing this stuff…

happy to archive this questionable piece of work here—hope to be uploading much prettier jobs moving forward, too, though! :grinning:

oof, you might have some trouble with this one, but you can probably do it with a high quality braid (i.e. the small roll that costs ~$25, not the roll that costs ~$10). In this situation you’ll probably want to desolder what’s in between the PCB and the header first, then the pins on the opposite side of the PCB… but honestly it would probably be best to clip the header off, remove the pins individually, then install a new header; it would make the whole process a lot easier.

Sometime braid gets a bad rap but the two most common reasons desoldering with braid can seem like it’s not working is 1.) it’s low quality braid, and 2.) your soldering iron isn’t transferring heat efficiently. Keep you tip tinned and clean throughout, and move your braid along each pin slowly until all the solder is gone; good braid will absorb solder like a sponge. Be gentle with the pressure you use with your iron because you could easily ruin the traces or screen if you blast the PCB with consistent heat. I wouldn’t recommend those spring loaded solder suckers for this, they often don’t work that well and there is a lot of solder to remove in this case.

For your next attempt I would suggest putting the header in place, soldering one pin, then check if the header is level (it probably won’t be perfect). Then you can reheat the pin you just soldered while applying light pressure evenly along the header so that it will shift flush against the PCB. Then remove your iron but hold the header in place for 5 second while the solder cools. Now your header will be in the exact position it should be and you won’t have excess space for solder blobs to drip down like they did here. & you really don’t need a ton of solder, those amount of solder on top of the pins 4-6 in from the right hand side of that picture are perfect, you don’t need any more than that. Best of luck and be patient!

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Most excellent, thanks for the detailed response kbit! Going slow and steady :turtle:

Another thing you can try, if you’re having trouble removing enough solder is to remove what you can, then use your cutters to cut the plastic next to the pin (so it is sort of separated from the others). Then you can heat the pin on the non-header side and gently (very gently!) pull on the pin from the other side with tweezers (preferably those non-conductive ones). With the pins removed you may find it easier to clean up. This is painful but if you’re successful you’ll feel like you just performed major brain surgery.

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So, all of the actual joints look good on this build I’m working on. Help me remember whether or not the areas I’ve circled should concern me. Does it matter whether or not solder is covered the pad on the component side of the board?

they’ll probably be ok but if you want to make sure you can just put a tiny bit of solder on your iron and hold it to the pads in questions for 1-2 seconds to reflow the joints / fill them a bit more. some of the pads have a bit of excess solder, but nothing seems to be bridging to they should be functional. also a good idea to clean off the flux on that connector / the underside of the PCB with some rubbing alcohol.