Tape Gear!


#124

thanks, sent you a message.

edit: no response… so i guess i’m still looking


#125

This is not worth scavenging, right?

It’s neat, but no idea if useful or working. I have a one bedroom apt already overflowing with my hobbies.


#126

Anyone have any advice on repairing a sony WM-D6C? I made the wonderful mistake of plugging in the wrong power adapter, should have just changed the batteries…

Everything appears to be working, motor still works/tape moves and the led’s on the battery/vu meter still light up, but no sound at the headphones or line outs. Also, there is a noticeable whine and slight, but constant, vibration when I put the battery pack in.


#127

My new toy

Thinking of using the sync channel to clock a modular: any of you tried this?


#128

New PMD222 Cassette Echo courtesy @scttcmpbll.

Looking forward to introducing it to the OP-1 and Terverb.


#129

This looks like a killer combo!


#130

I’m trying to use my Marantz PMD 201 in combination with a Mackie 1202-VLZ3 mixer to make a tape delay. For some reason I’m not getting a delay at all and when I bring the aux send up on the tape channel, instead of getting a nice feedback delay, I just get a loud squealing feedback. I’m doing the same thing Hainbach does in this video:

Any idea why this technique isnt working for me?


#131

I believe that the Marantz PMD 201, unlike the PMD 221, is a 2-head tape recorder, rather than 3-head. You won’t be able to use it as a tape echo because it uses a single head for recording and playback (the second head is erase).


#132

Oh damn you’re right… the person that sold it to me advertised it as a three head. Oh well.


#133

The 414 won’t do that by itself. The sync setting IIRC is to disable noise reduction on track 4 so it won’t interfere with whatever sync signal you record there.

If you have an FSK to Midi Clock reader / writer, you can put FSK on track 4. Then on playback the conversion chain is FSK > Midi Clock > Analog Sync.

Recording a square wave clock directly to the tape might be possible (I haven’t tried it), but you’ll need level shifting both ways. It’s like recording a click track from a drum machine and then using it to clock a modular.


#134

Yeah, I’m aware of how the sync works on the unit. I was thinking of simply recording some triggers, other than the level shifting I don’t see why it wouldn’t work…


#135

spent a while working on tape loops this evening. it seems like i need to push the tape a little to manipulate the tension to get it to play properly. think that’s on my tape deck or the loop its self? Which side do you tape and is scotch tape ok? curious if anyone here might have some greater experience they could share!


#136

Made plenty of tape loops myself over the years, including replacing the tape loops inside of those damn 8-track cartridges for my reverb unit. What I generally realised is that for best playback there should be no tension (or only minimal tension if it needs be) whatsoever on the loop. Basically, it should be running freely…….
I had some faulty tape players which moved the tape quite fast and liked to chew it up, so that didn’t allow for super loose tension but, nevertheless, it always needed some play to work nicely.
As for the scotch tape: I used any kind of scotch so far. On one side, on both sides, back and front. Anything. Nowadays I usually use proper tape splicers and, when available, splicing tape as well which I apply only at the back. But if I don’t have splicing tape I’ll revert back to scotch and that works fine for me…….anyhow, I suppose it all depends what you want to achieve…….using coarse methods may lead to more gritty results, of course.

Perhaps a really good resource at the moment is: https://www.youtube.com/user/amuletsmusic/videos
This gentleman does a lot evolving around tape loops and I’m sure you will find some clues on his channel, if you don’t know about it yet………good luck with your tape endeavours.


#137

thank you for your thorough response! i know i was making the loops too tight for a while, mostly because of a misunderstanding of how tape decks work. i also felt like the specificity of the measurements in all the how-to’s i watched made it seem like it was REALLY important to be precise. i think i’ll look into splicing tape and a proper splicer, see how much that would set me back…

the amulets video above was what inspired me to take another crack at it! definitely helpful.


#138

scotch-tape back of tape. glue strip of rubberband around takeup reel (source) to ensure the tape is being taken up and in no danger of getting stuck around the pinch roller. If you use rubber and a single roller transport, it would probably be difficult to flip the tape (e.g. play 4 track in reverse).
sample of one: found this out the hard way the other day.


#139

Everyone has their tricks but the reality is you need to find the right method that works for the particular machine you are using. Some need little or no tension on the tape to playback depending on how well the machine holds the tape against the playhead.
The rubber band trick is a waste of time if your machine has a halfway decent pinch roller.
I think I linked to it above but David Chandler spent a long time researching tape lengths and published them in a zine in the 1990’s … someone reposted it here for reference:
http://www.cementimental.com/tapeloop.html
Long story short:
Experiment with what you have.
There is no universal method.


#140

I agree, there’s no reason it shouldn’t. Please try it and let us know. I’m syncing a midi sequencer so I use FSK and send analog clock from the sequencer.


#141

How difficult is it to replace the belts on some of the Marantz units? I’m thinking about buying a PMD 360 for $40, and the belts need replaced.


#142

Yeah get a splice block most definitely


#143

Last week Hainbach posted a cool video about how to use a Marantz PMD222 deck as a tape echo.

Here’s a simple hack to the 222 that enables the PITCH knob to function while recording. This will give precise control of delay time through the entire range. Without this, one only has two delay time options, low or high.

It’s a two step process. One needs to cut a single trace and add a single wire. I’ve attempted to describe it in three pictures.