#168

Yes, its usual. Just varified it on my Monome build Teletype. 2.3V is the break even point.

1 Like
#169

Our own @frankchannel sells them, apparently. Don’t know where he’s based. Frank?

Definitely not if you’ve never attempted an smd project before.

1 Like
#170

I had 10 partially populated pcb’s made. I’m going to keep 2 or 3. I’ve sold 3, so I have a few left. I’m in Canada.

#171

This module is Deep…
I like it!

Does anyone happen to know a quick command I can use to test if the CV input is working?

Everything else on my no.1 build appears to be functioning.

Incidentally, is there any calibration procedure for the CV input and outputs?

#172

Try those:

IN.CAL.MIN
Reads the input CV and assigns the voltage to the zero point
IN.CAL.MAX
Reads the input CV and assigns the voltage to the max point
PARAM.CAL.MIN
Reads the Parameter Knob minimum position and assigns a zero value
PARAM.CAL.MAX
Reads the Paramter Knob maximum position and assigns the maximum point

For a simple test of the IN, type IN and it reads the current value

1 Like
#174

Swapped the default LEDs for Blue/Red.

IMG_7355
IMG_73553024×4032 2.19 MB

Still waiting for some parts (pot, pesky hardware + display window), but all seems to work, so far.

Going to use either red or blue gel sheet over the display. Both look great, but the result isn’t as bright as the yellow screen on the other build.

Has anyone tried swapping the CV LED resistors for higher values, to tone down the eye-burners a bit?

5 Likes
#175

Now I will get 2 pcbs. One from @frankchannel and one from Pusherman. So it would be great to get your BoM as an OpenOffice list to double-check and add those missing parts to my order. Thanks a lot!
Jacks and pots are best to order from thonk or do digi-key / mouser also offer high quality? Where did you get your black nuts and the display window? Usually I prefer blank alu design but your all black with blue/red LEDs design is simply marvelous!
Its my first online part sourcing and I will also add some stuff for NLC modules. Is there a distributor where I can simply source all parts at once or is it common that I have to order some parts at mouser, some at digi-key and others at thonk or tayda? Whats the most resource saving method?

#176

Lots of questions…

Actually, Pusherman has a list on the product page of the remaining components for his part-populated boards. See:

https://pushermanproductions.com/product/terminal-teletype-0402-part-smd-populated-pcb-only/

@frankchannel’s boards may have different parts pre-soldered, so best to ask him for his equivalent list, I think.

Thonk are the best EU supplier for good-quality pots.

Display window was cut by a local laser-cutting service here in London. Probably best to look for a local equivalent where you are. My order arrived this morning, but haven’t tried fitting them yet.

Black sockets are from a bulk order from Aliexpress. I can’t find the product page right now, unfortunately.

Thanks! I’m building up an entirely black.red/blue mini system, at the moment.

It’s pretty usual to have to order from multiple suppliers, unfortunately. I tend to get the bulk of my parts from DigiKey, but specific items (usually pots, sockets) I source from Thonk.

I try to avoid ordering from more than one US supplier (ie DigiKey/Mouser), or international shipping rates mount up really quickly.

1 Like
#177

That list is missing lots of stuff: R43, R44, RN1, screen, headers, power socket, light pipes, … maybe more? (To clarify: this is based on me looking at the image posted on their website)

#178

Thanks a lot! I read that pushermans list is not complete and especially the C5 should be replaced with a polarized tantalum capacitor to be correct. Therefore I asked. I will go through all data. I have already Corey´s (@frankchannel) BoM for his pcb. Have fun with your new Teletype! It opens a hole new territories… especially with the grid integration!

#179

I don’t have a working Grid, unfortunately. I have parts for a DIY RGB one, but I understand that won’t work with Teletype, sadly.

Factory-made Grid’s are a bit expensive for me, unfortunately.

I found the link to the black sockets, incidentally:

1 Like
#180

I started with the complete BOM, then eliminated all the parts I could see on the photo, as far as I can remember.

Here is my list of remaining components, for the Pusherman boards:
BOM.ods (25.1 KB)

There may also be some items missing. I know the spacers etc. for screen are not on there.

I’m not sure of the best solution for these, myself. I went for 20mm M2.5 black hex bolts, black nylon M2.5 washers (to stack up instead of spacers/standoffs) and M2.5 nuts. Some combination of M2.5 brass or steel spacers, nuts and bolts would also work.

One thing I would strongly suggest would be to place the screen, spacers, bolts etc., as well as the jacks before soldering the jacks. I didn’t do this, and soldered the sockets without the bolts and spacers for the screen being in place. Now the holes in the panel has a slight offset compared to the holes in the screen and PCB, so fitting the screws is going to be a challenge!

You may also find it necessary to enlarge the holes in the PCB for the spacer bolts slightly if you buy M2.5 hardware. I think they’re meant for M2 bolts.

3 Likes
#181

I 3d printed spacers – if you have a 3d printer it’s super cheap, fast, and you can make any size you want.

#182

Thank you, your BoM will save some time and confidence for every builder in the future! Even more your assembly tips!

#183

No problem!

I think it was mentioned before, but the OLED header in the BOM is too tall.

I’ll try and find the part number of the low-profile ones I used.

Even with the shorter female headers, I found it necessary to install the pin header on the display upside-down, with the plastic spacer strip on the top, in order to get the display low enough to go under the panel.

1 Like
#184

@frankchannel has those already on his BoM:
Low Profile screen socket:
517-929984-01-20-RK
Low profile screen header:
855-M20-9992045
They are untested right now!

#185

Yes, I concur regarding the OLED header. I just built a CNC machine so I milled a recessed area in my panel to give the screen more space :slight_smile:
[Edit just to say: the low profile screen sockets in my BOM were copied from the “Fates” project BOM]

2 Likes
#186

:upside_down_face: ha… nice one! Everything what helps…

#187

Those female headers should work OK. You won’t need any specific type of pin headers to go with them though- any standard square-pin ones should work.

You will still need to eliminate the plastic part of the pin header somehow (unless you want to do what @frankchannel has done, which is cool, but you probably don’t have the tools for it).

Either solder it the usual way, and lever off the plastic part from underneath (I’ve done this in the past but it’s tricky), or just solder it in the wrong way up, with the plastic part on the top of the board, and snip off the excess shorter pins at the top.

1 Like
#188

Hi folks. I cannot flash the firmware. Neither dfu-programmer see the board, nor it’s listed by ‘lsusb’.

I’ve double-tripple checked all the soldering, orientations etc. even changed avr and a crystal just to be sure. Mcu gets its 3.3V on both 3V3 and VDDIO busses, usb socket is fine, it has connection with corresponding pins on mcu…
I’m flashing it from mac, using typec-usb cable (it should work, right?)
What am i missing?