#190

I couldn’t get mine to flash over USB-C either, I had to find my old computer (which has USB A ports built-in) and use a standard USB type A cable.

#191

Sure thing, 39 ohm, that was my first mistake. You know that frustration when you missed something obvious, fix it and it’s still not working…

#192

Huh, that will be sad, if the problem is only because of the cable… but afaik my cable is usb 2.0 just with C connector on one side. Thanks, gotta get A-A cable just to be sure. Did you flash it from windows tho ?

#193

hey - no, I used a 2012 macbook air :slight_smile:

#194

For anyone who wants it here is the Eagle file for my Teletype PCB panel. My board with no slots was also merged into monome’s teleteype-hardware repository if anyone is interested in trying that variation.

1 Like
#195

It was a cable indeed. Thunderbolt 3, my love…
Flashed from Linux, using regular A-A
Up and running!
Thank you!!

image
image720×1280 268 KB

#196

Glad you’ve got it working! :grin: have fun!

#197

Right. I’m diving in. I just ordered faceplate, smd soldered board from pusherman, and missing bits from mouser and farnell. It’s quite tricky to know if I’ve got everything, but I figured I’d find out sooner or later. Not in a particular rush to finish this project, so will see how it goes.

No doubt I’ll be back to ask questions. Wish me luck!

3 Likes
#198

Could someone who has a factory-built Teletype post a photo of how the display standoff/spacers are used? No need to take off the panel, I’d just really like to see the module from the side.

I’m really struggling to work out the best way to support the screen and panel.

1 Like
#199

Its a tricky one!
Ill send some pics later when in the studio.

1 Like
#200

Thanks @thopa, much appreciated!

#201

can you toss over the part numbers for the LEDs you used? And did you need to adjust any of the resistors?

#202

Hi @jamesbretz.

All sourced from the UK branch of RS Components.

Red:
LS Q976

Blue:
LB Q39G-N1OO-35-1

Blue (ordered this one by mistake, used the other blue part above):
BR1111C

I left them as they were as wasn’t keen on soldering 0402.

The blue Gate/Trig ones are fine. The red CV ones are waaaaay too bright, but it seems they’re designed that way, as the default white ones are also eye-burners (even on the original factory-built units, I think).

If you do decide to try tweaking the resistor values, let me know how you get on. I would like to try and tone down the CV ones a bit, at some point.

1 Like
#203

image

Factory TT here. It’s the same on the flip side so—standoffs on the “bottom” with the little screws coming thru, just the header holding it on the top.

2 Likes
#204

Thanks very much @renegog.

So the factory unit used different sockets, by the looks of it.

What I was most interested in seeing was if any spacers were used between the top of the OLED board and the bottom of the panel.

It seems not…

What I don’t understand, that being the case, is what stops the bolts unscrewing themselves. Screwing them up tight enough to stop them doing that should result in the panel being bowed down towards the display or the PCB getting bent down around the USB socket.

#205

Well if it’s not clear from the picture, here’s how it looks to me IRL: there’s a screw from thru the PCB holding the spacer tightly in place. The small screw from the top goes through the acrylic screen shield thing and then just threads in to the top of the space. It appears to be held tight by the metal panel, pushing against the acrylic, pushing against the LED screen, which is held to the PCB via the header on top and held up by the spacers on the bottom. I hope that’s helpful…

I recently made a Norns Shield which has the same screen (I believe). It’s installed similarly except without the screws from the top—it’s supported from the bottom by spacers and held down from the top by the acrylic. It’s slightly crooked (half a mm above the spacers maybe) because I didn’t solder the header perfectly straight, but it doesn’t seem to be a problem: the acrylic and spacers hold it within a safe range. Point being: I don’t think the tightness of the screws on top is all that important, seems like over tightening them would be worse for the reasons you mentioned.

PS: On Teletype I just realized the screws from the top are holding the acrylic in place, that’s probably their primary purpose.

2 Likes
#206

That’s good info @renegog.

Here’s what I ended up doing:

IMG_7420
IMG_74203024×4032 2.07 MB

IMG_7419
IMG_74193024×4032 1.71 MB

It’s far from ideal, though, as the nut under the panel ends up putting pressure on the display unit, and actually bending it down towards the carrier board at the corners.

IMG_7423
IMG_74233024×4032 1.94 MB

It’s kinda hard to see, but the display itself is actually slightly bowed.

It still works OK, but I fear the mechanical stress on the display may shorten it’s life.

1 Like
#207

Partly that, and partly to mitigate mechanical stress on the PCB when a cable is plugged into the USB socket (or to a lesser extent, when the button is pushed).

When you push a cable into the USB socket, you need quite a bit of force. Without the screws and spacers, you’d be bending the board, since it would only be held to the panel by the jack sockets, which are some way higher up.

Incidentally, this is the white display with red lighting gel over it:

IMG_7418
IMG_74183024×4032 2.47 MB

(It looks more red/less pink IRL).

I’m going to try blue, too, and see which one I like better.

3 Likes
#208

Where do you get the gels? I’d like to do mine in green!

#209

ok so here is how i did it on one of my diy, look at the spacers and that i had to bend inwards the 5v regulator a bit so it would not touch the screen.

image
image3024×4032 2.15 MB

image
image3024×4032 1.57 MB

I know, i need to trim my nails…

2 Likes