#210

Thanks, @thopa. What did you use for the spacer between panel and screen?

I found there was very little space around the hole in the screen carrier board- not enough for a standard hex spacer.

Didn’t notice :slight_smile:

#211

I removed the plastic spacer strip for the pin-header and mounted the VREG flat against the board, as I wouldn’t have been able to mount the display otherwise.

#212

Can anyone confirm that the front panel layout that’s part of the open Teletype docs has screw holes that fit properly on fixed rails? I’ve got an older official Teletype that doesn’t fit well in my case, and if the new layouts fit properly I’ll just pick up a panel from one of the DIY shops and swap it out.

#213

I have fixed rails and a (recent) DIY Teletype and it fits just fine!

2 Likes
#214

I think I got them on UK Amazon, but afraid I can’t remember the details, as I bought them a while ago, and they’ve dropped off the bottom of my recent purchases list there.

I’m not even sure they’re actually lighting gels, to be honest. They’re relatively stiff, maybe 0.5mm thick, and have a protective film stuck to both sides.

I bought several sheets in different colours in a multi-pack.

Here’s blue, from the same pack:

IMG_7432
IMG_74323024×4032 2.16 MB

It’s a little bit dim (at least in daylight), but I do like the colour.

Incidentally, if you do want to cut the gel/whatever to exactly cover the glass part of the display, I found the width specified for the area on the display datasheet not to be accurate (as you can see above, on the right side).

Fortunately, I have enough remaining material to cut another piece.

2 Likes
#215

Dreaming today of a slim, screenless Teletype. It would be great to develop scripts on the main Teletype and then flash them to smol TT for more permanent duty. Maybe I should just get more crows…

1 Like
#216

Finally got round to (more or less) sorting out the display screws and spacers, and fitting the a newly cut blue gel sheet.

I think it looks pretty good!

IMG_7485
IMG_74853024×4032 2.3 MB

IMG_7486
IMG_74863024×4032 2.38 MB

9 Likes
#217

Which resistors did you finally used for the blue and for the red leds? I would like to consider resistor amounts before mounting the jacks… to avoid eye burners :slight_smile: Thank you!

#218

I went with the default values, as I bought the PCB with passives pre-soldered, and didn’t fancy attempting 0402.

The particular blue LEDs I went with for the Gate outs are fine. The red CV output ones are really Too Bright, though.

I’ve never seen a factory-made Teletype in the flesh, but my impression is that the CV output LEDs on the original hardware are also arguably way too bright, too (especially as they’re white), so I guess a conscious decision was made during the design process to make them really bright with higher CV voltages.

#219

Maybe you could sand the ends of the light pipes a little to make them more opaque/let less light through?

1 Like
#220

That’s an interesting thought…

#221

Started to learn this technic at 21:00:


Say I use desolder wick to remove a short between two pins. Do I have to reattach solder to those two pins or is it usual that there is sufficient solder left between the pads and the pins? Would save a bit time as I´m a beginner with such small ICs and don´t have such good sticking solder as in this video…
Edit: I think the answer is yes…
Try it this way right now. But a friendlier solder or an hot air station would be my next trails.
#222

Typically the remnant solder is good enough on those small pins after wicking but it can’t hurt to reflow the joint.

#223

Thank you @desolationjones! I´m not sure, thought some of the pins were loose again after desoldering. I will just reflow those. Found another technic, with which I can solder it with my equipment… pin by pin. Quite time intense, but could work. My tin was okay for 0805-parts but at those small parts I would need some more flowing. Have Sn62PbAg2 (0,5mm and 0,7mm) which I got with my used Weller times ago.

#224

I sometimes touch the pins without any solder to reflow, after using the wick.

You’ll probably find you have to go through the whole process a few times before everything works perfectly (I usually do).

Incidentally, be careful to check (with an illuminated loupe of magnifying visor) for fibres of wick that have broken off the braid and got stuck behind the IC pins. I trashed a relatively expensive MCU that way once.

Fortunately, I was able to remove it with hot air, soldered on a new one, and all was well.

#225

Thanks for the tip @toneburst! I‘m almost done (with the first trail :no_mouth:) with U2. And indeed, I had a copper fibre, which I got with tweezers and soldering iron out. I will double-check this point. Next time I would try a hot air station for such small chips, as my tin and my equipment/technic makes it quite time-intense. I also realized if I use a 0,4mm tip in the iron, I simply don‘t get enough heat in it :grimacing:. So I use a 0,7mm something tip, which don‘t make things faster. Perhaps another tin would also help. But as a hot air station isn‘t that expensive, I will give it a try, and do my meditation on slightly bigger parts with my iron. :hugs:

#226

I feel dumb, as it shouldn´t be that difficulty: How can I download the eagle-file from github? Copy & paste seems not to work… I´m missing something obvious :upside_down_face: .

#227

If you’re viewing one file, you can right click “raw” -> “save as…”

or if you’re in a folder, click “code” -> “download”

1 Like
#228

If I like to change the Yellow Leds of the CV-Outs to blue or red I also have to change those 20Kohm resistors R52, R53, R66, R67 as well right? What resistor amounts would you suggest for blue and red? Any experience?

#229

If you have used those https://www.digikey.de/product-detail/de/PLP1-350-F/492-1335-ND/586482?utm_campaign=buynow&WT.z_cid=ref_octopart_dkc_buynow&utm_medium=aggregator&curr=eur&site=us&utm_source=octopart, they should be already slightly sanded I think.? Mine look a bit dim.