I’m considering making a 4u banana teletype for my serge. Judging from the schematics seems that no jack normalisation is used, right?

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Any idea on which light diffusers to order (preferably in Europe)?
It pains me to not be able to see the lights from an angle.

Thanks for open sourcing this module. I always wanted to try it and I jumped on board as soon as a friend offered to make one for me. Just finished my first Teletype tutorial and I’m very excited!

EDIT

Just noticed there’s a post by @tehn earlier on, pointing to a mouser part: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/bivar/plp1-350-f/?qs=6qR8IwHvvof5CQoY4OPfbw%3D%3D&countrycode=US&currencycode=USD

Thanks!

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Hey all! Has anyone built a mouser cart for this build yet? Just wondering before I start building one from the BOM. Thanks!

I sent you a dm 20 chars

Finished my build and I’m just wrapping my head around it. I documented the process on my blog if anyone wants to check it out. I also made a Mouser BOM I shared out.

http://music.codydeschenes.com/?p=3394

Question, Is there a way to make the OLED brighter? I used the NHD-2.7-12864WDW3 and If I read the datasheet right there is a setting for brightness but its handled by the controller? Not sure.

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Hi!
Congrats on your blog and for sharing! Lots of helpful info in there!

Is your screen one of the white ones? Mine are and the are a but dim yes.

Don’t know if there is a setting for making it brighter …

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It is one of the white one. I used the orange/auburn gel film and it looks great but its a bit dim.

Here is the datasheet on the OLED:

Says it has a built in SSD1322 controller:

I read stuff like this “Wider pulse width drives pixel brighter” but this is above what I know about these OLEDs. Anyone have some ideas.

What a cool module!! I’d always fancied one but worried that I wouldnt get on with it at all - I just couldnt get a feel for it from videos and reading. I didn’t know anyone who had one, so couldn’t try it.

Thanks so much for making it open source - nice, easy build - I really appreciated how large the pads were on the TSSOP chips - thanks! I really really like it !! So easy to learn and great fun!

649-modular_monome_tt

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Soon you will be building the expanders! :wink:

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I admit, I may have already ordered the TXo PCBs… :sweat_smile:

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Sweet sixteen can be a great friend too!

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If you have not ordered the teensy yet go for the txo+, but needs teensy 3.6 and a little helper board.

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I’ve ordered the little helper board for the 3.6, but not started sourcing parts yet :grin: turning teletype into a wavetable capable oscillator is a very attractive plan :heart_eyes:

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Anyone make a acrylic window for theirs yet?

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I was thinking of laser cutting one, but I am not sure of the size it would have to be. Would the exact size of the cutout be fine, or would it need to be slightly larger to be press fit?

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I have seen some do other projects with a bevel cut so it wedges in.

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When laser-cutting, the laser beam has a width (referred to and the “kerf”), so you lose a little material either side of the actual cut line.

The laser cutting place will tell you the approximate kerf size of their laser cutter, so you can compensate by adding half the kerf width to the dimensions of your window.

However, if your panel is pre-cut, you don’t know the tolerances of the manufacturing process that produced it, so you won’t know the exact size of the hole unless you have a micrometer to measure it yourself.

I’d recommend getting a few windows cut at slightly different sizes.

You may still need to sand down the nearest fit to get it to press in securely.

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@forestcaver mentioned that he had some teletype PCBs made at JLCPCB but that they came back with a short between power and ground. I was planning to order some PCBs myself, but wanted to find out why this might have happened before I jump in and make an order (i.e., does JLCPCB suck, or is there a potential design issue?)

Here’s one thing I noticed looking at the Gerbers:

Essentially, the bottom right pad on the USB jack (which is connected to ground) overlaps with the underlying power plane. The milling layer cuts through this pad. If it is plated, it will connect power and ground.

I wonder if this is a potential source of problems, or if anyone wants to weigh in?

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Wow ! Good Call - I’ll drill mine out and check… (I havent thrown them all out yet !)

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Would be great to know. Does that hole look plated?