#149

Docker generally cannot access your hardware without some other configuration. It’s just potentially convenient to use docker to build the firmware since it creates a reproducible build environment. Once you have the teletype.hex file, you should get dfu-programmer set up on your machine and flash teletype.hex to the module using the ordinary firmware update procedure – you only use docker for compiling the firmware.

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#150

Cool, thanks @csboling.

I’ve got it flashed, now :slight_smile:

Is any USB keyboard supposed to work? My RPi (official, GB version) one doesn’t seem to work at all, unfortunately.

Apple Extended USB keyboard also non-functioning, it seems.

Both have USB integrated hubs. Maybe that’s the issue…

#151

Seems likely, Teletype and Ansible do not support USB hubs. This should perhaps be more prominently documented, I’ll submit a PR.

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#152

I’m having an issue with my no.2 build. I’ve managed to flash the firmware (thanks for tips, all!).

However when I reboot the module, after flashing it, it displays the “Scenes will be overwritten…” message, then, whether I press the button or not, the display blanks, one of the output level LEDs remains lit, and it’s otherwise unresponsive.

I think it’s the same LED that was lit before I flashed the MCU.

Soldering error, or something else?

Nothing seems to be getting excessively hot, so it’s not a short, I guess…

I’ve had a good look with my illuminated loupe, and can’t spot any shorts between IC pins or missing solder joints.

U3 and U4 are a bit wonky, but as far as I can see, the right IC legs are soldered to the right pads, with no obvious shorts, despite the slight rotation.

#153

That may well be correct ! If you havent got a keyboard and no scripts, it will be pretty unresponsive…

#154

In my case, I had TR4 stuck on high, and that was due to my not having properly soldered R47 (there was a good connection on only 1 side).

#155

It’s not what the other ones does though. The other ones displays the terminal prompt, and the button does stuff.

No.2 does nothing at all, and the screen is completely blank after the ‘overwrite’ message is displayed for a couple of seconds.

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#156

I’ll check that, thanks for the tip!

UPDATE:

It wasn’t R47, but I spotted something.

IMG_7346
IMG_73462837×2218 1.98 MB

These boards were bought from a well-known UK webshop, with passives pre-soldered, so this shouldn’t have happened…

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#157

That’d do it! Glad you found it :slight_smile:

#158

Found but not fixed. I bought the pre-soldered board to avoid tackling 0402-pitch soldering. Now it looks like I’m going to have to do it, anyway :frowning:

UPDATE:

Well, I think I fixed that resistor (R30), but it’s still doing the same thing, unfortunately.

I can’t see any more examples of bad soldering, but now I don’t trust this board. Maybe not all the components are the correct value (or even type…).

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#159

please, everyone who has built this and sees issues with the documentation, please submit a PR to improve the build experience for others. it’s not enough just to post here in the thread: good information gets buried.

6 Likes
#160

Woo-hoo…!!

Resoldered the MCU, and now it boots!

IMG_7348
IMG_73483024×4032 2.36 MB

Ordered a new keyboards, sans hub. At least it didn’t appear to have an inbuilt hub, in the photos.

2 Likes
#161

Just a point for clarification @toneburst’s pre-soldered board did not come from me (my boards work). I noticed the one from pusherman has at least one problem (based on the photo they posted on their website): C5 is supposed to be a polarized tantalum capacitor, but they have used a ceramic one… Not sure if maybe there are other problems with that board…

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#162

I didn’t notice that one. I can probably replace that, since it’s sensibly-sized :wink:

#163

I´m thinking about to try to build a Teletype with the Pusherman PCB as well.

If I order this…
OKI-78SR-5/1.5-W36H-C
https://octopart.com/oki-78sr-5%2F1.5-w36h-c-murata+power+solutions-49451315
…I will get the complete “power board” which only needs to be soldered with the three pins to the main board correct?

@toneburst: It would be kind if you could share a complete BOM what is missing based on the Pusherman-PCB. Are you located in the EU? If yes, your parts sources would also be very well appreciated. Thank you!

As I`ve written before I did only a few through-hole builds of full kits. I reviewed some general videos about soldering smd. But it would be nice to read about your short-cut recommendations and which soldering technic you use.
Is it possible to build it with a big magnifying glass (2x), soldering iron (0,4mm tip) and a flush pen? I´m afraid that I can´t manage to proper solder the U2 microchip. Then I would have to trust the desolder copper. Is this reasonable? - I didn´t used desolder copper til now. Thanks for a few thoughts.

#164

Sorry i completely missed this.
Yes i use a solder iron but…under a stereo microscope. 0.5mm tip and lots of flux. It’s how i do all smd.
Thumbs up to @forestcaver for pointing that out on his blog that i read when i was starting with smd. You obviously still make mistakes but i think many less. And it’s also easier to see them too. It’s become a habit now :slight_smile: I actually really enjoy the super focus view!

2 Likes
#165

Hi @KitKatAndy.

That’s correct. Note you should remove the plastic spacer on the pin-header under the board so it lies flat against the Teletype PCB, otherwise there won’t be space for the screen to fit under the panel.

I bought all the remaining components from DigiKey in the US (though I’m based in the UK, I often still buy from them because they’re quick to deliver, and they have stuff that can’t be sourced here).

I use the drag-solder method for soldering fine-pitch ICs like the Pic32 MCU.

I use a hand-held loupe, and don’t find it necessary to use magnification while actually soldering. I do have a good look with the loupe after soldering the ICs, though, and use the braid and plenty of flux again, if I spot any shorts.

I have a BOM for most of the remaining parts in OpenOffice spreadsheet format, if that’s of any use.

It doesn’t have the standoffs and screws in it (I should have added those, but always forget, and now, as usual, not having these parts is holding up the build).

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#166

Is it usual for the CV output LEDs not to light below around 2.3V?

#167

Thank you both for the general tips!
Right now I wanted to order the panel and pcb (with presoldered smd) from Pusherman but its out of stock now. Are there any other resources right now with most of the 0402 smd parts already populated? I don´t think it´s a good idea to start 0402 smd soldering with a complete empty Teletype pcb…

#168

Yes, its usual. Just varified it on my Monome build Teletype. 2.3V is the break even point.

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