#21

Have this one! I’m happy with it. I have had it make my interface wig out slightly if plugged into it, but the problems (weird sample rate, occasional clicks, gain setting on a channel not matching the knob) are mostly minor. If I HAD more than one port on my MacBook, I wouldn’t even have noticed.

1 Like
#22

Mine works well but I have learned to plug my Focusrite Scarlett directly into the computer to avoid crashing it. Everything else uses the hub with no issue.

1 Like
#23

I always plug my soundcard in direct regardless, then hub controllers and whatever else.

4 Likes
#25

Reviving this thread to see if anyone has any advice as to what’s out there now…

Just got a new machine with only usb-c ports, and would love have a hub that I can connect my interface, grid, and maybe other things into. Bonus points for HDMI. (Side note: can I just buy usb-c cables for my stuff and it’ll be fine?)

#26

I only have one port, and it’s USB-C (and not even Thunderbolt 3), so I use a powered Anker hub for basically everything, and I still have to plug in an intermediate dongle. For all that nonsense, actually, my current interface works just fine. I used to have a cheaper Zoom interface that had some problems—but I think they might have been with the literal interface and not the connection.

I think USB-C cables should work just fine, but I haven’t tried.

2 Likes
#27

I replaced all my cables with USB-C ones and it’s all good.

It’s tricky to find USB-C hubs that actually have USB-C inputs though. I found one on amazon (unpowered) that had a couple USB-A ports and a couple USB-C ports which is pretty handy. Again, not powered though.

1 Like
#28

Thanks, re: powered vs. powered. This is just to charge ancillary devices or for other reasons?

#29

Sort of? I was running into problems (again with my old interface) and an unpowered hub where my computer would complain that the hub was drawing too much power. I think I have my interface plugged into the wall, but I figured if I’m trying to serve that many USB devices at once I should power the hub.

#30

Noted. Thanks for the insight. I’d probably be in the same boat.

I haven’t had a new computer in years–the amount of third party hubs and accessories is overwhelming to say the least.

#31

Recommendations for a USB-C hub to connect to my 2020 MacBook Air. Looking to use:

  • launch control XL
  • midi fighter 3D
  • midi twister
  • KMI K-board
  • MOTU M4

All use type A plugs and 2.0 (except m4) - I get a little lost w/ USB specs - the input port of the M4 is USB C, but it came with a C-to-A cable.

Are there advantages to using a powered vs unpowered hub if the computer is plugged into a power cable? All of the devices I’m using are bus powered.

So I need at least 5 USB A ports and a USB C connection to computer. Bonus for HDMI.

1 Like
#32

That’s the argument in favour of a powered hub right there. Your computer won’t necessarily be able to power everything from the single uplink port.

Just use any good Anker USB-3 hub and a USB-C to USB-A (3.0 or better) adapter. They are cheap. No need for a USB-C uplink at all.

Afaik there are no “hubs” short of expensive docks (OWC, Belkin, and Caldigit make decent ones) that have as many ports as you want plus HDMI and a USB-C uplink. C series hubs tend to have three ports and HDMI or four ports without, because the HDMI takes up the last port on the chipset. So if cost matters, get a standard hub and adapter, and if cost doesn’t matter go for a proper Thunderbolt dock to take full advantage of the throughput on your Air.

1 Like
#33

Yeah, that is what I was thinking.

It is more than I wanted to spend, but the CalDigit TS3 Plus has great reviews. The OWC Thunderbolt 3 Dock would also work (would need adapter for HDMI). I need to do some more research.

#34

I own the TS-3 but I would prefer to have the OWC personally. Neither are really portable though, the massive power brick on the TS-3 is bigger than the unit itself. Both get very hot in normal operation. The TS-3 is a good unit but it shares many of its scattered USB ports on a single bus via an internal hub. The OWC has a dedicated chip which gives each port it’s own USB bus making it potentially better for heavy mixed-use USB work. I haven’t used the TS-3 for music as its my work hub but so far I haven’t had any serious complaints about it either. It’s just a little more awkward and a little less perfect than the OWC.

1 Like
#35

I’ve been very pleased with this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0797NWDCB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1 Like
#36

I have a very dumb question about USB-C, as I’m on the edge of buying a new macbook pro.
As far as I understand, using adapter cables, such as USB-C to mini USB or USB-C to USB 2.0 type A will result in no loss of data speed rate ? Am I right with it ? So I could stick with my current USB hub and simply change the connector between the hub (mini USB) and the computer (USB-C) ?

#37

to save anyone trouble: wirecutter’s usb-c hub pick works for crow/elektron heat. does not work for grid. apples usb-c -> a adapter works great with grid.

EDIT: I think actually I might be getting a lot of ground noise when crow is plugged in to this…not sure if that’s a ground loop issue or if it’s pass through from the hub, gonna investigate

#38

Assuming the adapter is of high quality and not some cheap knockoff, this is correct.

1 Like
#39

Thanks. Basically, adapters are purely analogic, just routing current to the correct pins ?

#40

I believe if you want to get true USB 3.1 speeds from the port you need an active adapter or active adapting cable, as USB 3.1 cables in general have some active components. If you’re ok with only USB 2.0 speeds, you can use a totally passive adapter/cable. The USB specs and implementations get somewhat complicated about under which circumstances full USB 3.1 speeds are provided, so if you want to guarantee the highest speeds possible use high quality, certified adapters or adapting cables, as I recommended. If you use only passive adapters, my read of the specs indicates you will max out at USB 2.0 speeds, although there may be USB 3.0 compatible adapters that give you something in between. Whether those are active or passive I don’t know.

1 Like
#41

Alright. I believe I use only USB2 hardware (midi controllers)