#62

I have some experience dealing with lumber in Hungary, which is it’s own weird microcosm that might not be applicable in Portugal. there has to be some equivalent to a 2x4/2x6 there (probably stated in mm), you just have to make sure you’re finding lumber yards that sell framing lumber (many won’t).

people build houses out of wood and need to buy lumber in known dimensions, so I can’t imagine you can’t find something. other option for affordable wood is getting nice plywood (baltic birch).

for finishes, you should be able to order almost anything you need (maybe look at fine-tools.com), but getting stuff local might be weird. all the stuff above is finished with rubio monocoat, which is a european company. beeswax or shellac can be mixed yourself if you get the raw materials and they work extremely well for interior stuff.

1 Like
#63

For finish, Osmo Polyx-Oil/Hardwax oil is made by a German company and widely distributed. Nice finish and very easy to work with. Can’t help with stains. Best stain is no stain if you ask me.

2 Likes
#64

I mean, they have some stuff, but it’s too expensive to be construction lumber (for casual/cheap DIY builds). I’ve checked all the ‘Home Depot’-style places locally, but perhaps I need to find a specialized place for this kind of thing, as even the plywood selection is awful at these places (they tend to have smaller/thinner sections of plywood, rather than full sheets (which I would have a hard time getting home anyways)).

This is great! Loads of stuff on that page, and unless the shipping to PT is brutal (haven’t gone to a checkout yet), the prices are pretty reasonable.

I guess on this front, can someone recommend a good process/finish for pine/reclaimed stuff? Most of my upcoming projects are going to use pallet wood, since I have some on hand, and have a local place that sells all manner of pallets cheaply, and I can get some planed pine bits at local shops.

At the moment I have a tub of briwax en route which I plan on using as a first coat to give it a bit of color and protection (for the newer looking pallet wood), but after that, I don’t know what to put on it.

#65

In the UK, what often is described in the US as a “2x4” is, technically, 38x89 - it’s 2"x4" before finishing, and ends up smaller in terms of actual dimensions.

I can find similar in the UK as ‘stud timber’, often described as ‘CLS’ for “Candian Lumber Standard”, as the type of softwood. Eg, like this. Any timber used for framing would do.

Hardware stores are not nearly so diverse in Europe - lots of what the US Youtubers will pick up in a Home Depot we have to go to more specialist places. Lumber yards, even ones aimed at builders, will perhaps be a better bet for timber, and finding my country’s specialist woodworking places is great for finishes.

Some finishes don’t exist in Europe because of chemical restrictions, but not many. Polyurethane varnishes and danish oil should be findable for sure. Osmo make lots of great stains, oils, and waxes, for instance - try searching around for a place that will stock them, because if they do, they will have the rest. Again, though, my local hardware stores have crap selections, and it’s off to Axminster or similar (a specialist tools/woodworking store, who I buy from online) for Actual Stuff For Woodworkers.

I don’t know PT specifics, but I feel like this stuff must be available. The problem is finding the thread of where it’s stocked. So I’m just trying to suggest ways in.

4 Likes
#66

I’ve used a similar homemade beeswax finish on some projects with great success but just remember that it’s not meant to be a fully protective “finish”. It will need to be reapplied and won’t make the wood fully waterproof or glossy.
Most importantly you won’t be able to put any finish on over a wax. If you want you can put it over another finish but not underneath.

1 Like
#67

Sketchup is now owned by Trimble. I don’t know anything about them or their politics.

I’ve used Sketchup for a very long time, but was unaware of their new model. A quick bit of research indicates you can still download the desktop version of Sketchup Make – the advantage here being that you can use the huge library of (typically free) 3rd party plugins. The plugins have always made Sketchup for me (they extend the program enormously) so being unable to use them in the new version is absolutely baffling.

Anyway – happy to try to be a resource for people if there are sketchup questions. :+1:

2 Likes
#68

Only used once on the thing I posted above, but instantly in love with Rubio Monocoat Oil Plus 2C


Unlike other oils you only have to apply it once, non-toxic, food-safe, smells lovely and brings out great contrast in wood.
2 Likes
#69

Another finishing option for you for indoor projects.

I’ve used this stuff and it’s fantastic (all natural ingredients… it smells lovely).

Ishitani (look him up on YouTube) uses this stuff.

For outdoor protection I’ve always been recommended osmo products. It’s widely available and seems to work well when I’ve used it.

1 Like
#70

So cool that theres a woodworking thread on lines! I just built myself a pair of Fates, and decided to try and make a wooden box. A lot more work than I thought (doesn’t help I have next to no tools, and did this with $15 saws from homedepot. Love how it came out though! I still need to make one more (for the one in my prototype cardboard box).

I used 1/8" walnut and some Clapham’s beeswax for the finish.

1
15304×3536 6.3 MB
2
25013×3342 5.71 MB
3
35283×3522 6.68 MB
4
44945×3297 4.7 MB
5
56000×4000 6.73 MB

53 Likes
Norns shield case designs
#71

That looks amazing, well done! I’m sure you could sell these :slight_smile:

2 Likes
#72

Oh. Wow. That’s just absolutely gorgeous!

1 Like
#73

so many cool projects in the thread!

I am trying to plan out the enclosure for my Meng Qi Rollz-5+ build. What I am thinking is that I will do a thin frame around the sides with walnut, a plexi back panel (to expose the circuit board and wiring) and then a contrasting lighter panel of some type of wood on top.

I found this yesterday https://www.instagram.com/p/B6kWd4-BxWf/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link and I think this idea of using pieces of wood in the corners (assuming they are glued in) for fastening the top and bottom seems like a really cool idea. Does anyone have experience with this technique and is there anything to know about it?

Screen Shot 2020-09-04 at 11.45.59 AM

Also any recommendations/inspiration pics for a contrasting light wood/finish with the walnut? I plan on getting the panel made from ponoko and here’s what they have https://www.ponoko.com/materials/category/wood not sure about where I’ll get the wood for the side panels or interior standoffs.

#74

it’s exactly what you think it is: shims in the corners that you can screw the panel into. make sure the screw from the top is going into the middle of the endgrain, or you’ll split everything fairly easily.

Also, from the looks of it, those corner blocks are also structural: they serve to help keep a box with sides that thin square, which is handy at glue-up time.

1 Like
#75

Another feature of this sort of enclosure building is that you can plan in a recessed front panel. That is, if you shorten the corner posts, then you lower the front panel. This can help protect knobs and other things projecting from the panel.

Definitely pre-drill the holes into the end grain of the posts!

1 Like
#76

I’m enjoying the videos on this channel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rqn46zl_OkA
(in that video a drill press jig is made for using with a standard electric drill)

1 Like
#77

regarding finishes, I have been using what’s, in this country, called wipe-on poly. Not sure about european versions of this, but it’s very easy to use and not super duper toxic smelling. although scrolling through people’s responses, this may be the most toxic. :stuck_out_tongue: i also love me some danish or tung oil.

1 Like
#78

I am using Minwax Wipe-On Poly for everything I do these days. I was skeptical because of the brand, but it was recommended to me by a local woodworker friend who makes probably the finest furniture I have ever seen in person. It’s incredibly easy to use and really stands up over time. I have a pair of maple burl side tables here I made 10 years ago that still have no stains or drink rings, despite exposure to small children.

2 Likes
#79

New corner

image
image3024×4032 1.97 MB

12 Likes
#80

What’s your technique for cutting mitre joints? Something I’ve often had problems doing accurately.

#81

It this case it wasn’t down to any skill from me, I was lucky enough to have access to a very fancy table saw so I just typed in 45 degrees and the size and pushed it through. I have had good results from regular electric mitre saws but it just required careful measuring and marking. I always use mitre clamps when assembling something like this, but for smaller things (like picture frames) you can tape the outside corners with masking tape with all the pieces flat, glue inside the corners and then ‘fold’ the box up. I can elaborate if this isn’t clear/ is of interest. I don’t know how I’d do a nice mitre cut this size this with hand tools.

1 Like